63-5 22LR Cylinder Won't Rotate after firing

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I have a like new 63-5 that is in excellent shape. Everything seems to work and the hammer fires every type of round I put into the chambers.

However after a few rounds the cylinder won't rotate because of a combination of empty cases backing out of the cylinder and the burr left from the hammer strike. Also, ejecting rounds was very difficult, had to bang it on table or tap with brass hammer.

I tried 3 different types of ammo.

Please tell me I don't need to go find ammo to match the gun.
 
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Ok, I'm no expert but it sounds like your cases are backing up against the recoil shield and sticking in that position.

Yes, changing ammo might help, but I also recall a thread here from someone who had gotten a 22LR chamber reamer and carefully re-reamed all his chambers - with the result that ammo didn't stick on him anymore. So there's an idea for you (or your gunsmith) to try.
 
I did insert some live rounds into the chamber and the chambers do seem dirty and some rounds stuck in the chamber. But the rounds did seem loose enough, maybe too loose, in some of the chambers.

Also, the rims do seem to set flush into the cylinder. I have plans to clean them out and ream them a bit. What is the best reamer to use for 22LR?
 
Make sure the gun is clean ...well clean as 22 ammo is dirty and not much fouling is required to gum up the works of a revolver .

Then make sure no oil , lube or CLP is left in the chambers . Take a clean patch and dry out each cylinder...this may help with the cases backing out .

Your description of loose fitting ammo , cylinder not rotating and having to pound out the empties is puzzling ..
Start back at square with a totally clean revolver and see how it functions .
Gary
 
IF a really clean cylinder doesn't solve your problem, the Mansen Standard Chamber "Finishing" reamer will do the trick. It is not a difficult task, but you need to be careful and follow procedures to keep from damaging the gun. Plenty of cutting oil, clean off cutter frequently, never turn the cutter backward, never ever turn the cutter in a chamber dry. You need also a large tap handle or a cutter T handle. Remove the cylinder from the gun but leave the extractor & rod in place. Turn the cutter slowly, and pay close attention the the shoulder of the cutter when it gets to the recessed chamber. You do not want to remove any metal from the chamber seat. Be sure the cylinder is secure in a padded vice, and a wad of paper towels under the cylinder to catch the dripping cutting oil.
 
I am always reticent to remove metal anywhere on a gun without trying to remedy the issue with other methods. We all know that Smith .22s are notorious for sticking chambers! I have experienced this too. And I have one that was reamed with a finish reamer before it came to me. But, I would clean it very thoroughly and try different ammunition and check the chamber dimensions carefully before reaming. If they are already too large, reaming won't help. When all efforts do not fix it, then it may indicate that reaming is the only answer, then it is time to proceed.
 

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