Model 38 Frame Crack - Can It Be Fixed?

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NukeFromOrbit

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I'm a newcomer to the world of vintage revolvers, so pardon me if this is a dumb question. Can the frame crack on a 1970s vintage Model 38 be repaired?

My Model 38 is in beautiful condition, but the threaded area of the frame where the barrel screws in is cracked from front to rear. I understand that this was not an uncommon failure on the Model 38, apparently from the barrel being torqued too far when it was assembled. I did send the gun to Smith & Wesson for repair or replacement, but they were unwilling to do either, so I'm left with repairing the gun or parting it out.

I was tempted to break out the JB Weld, but even I'm not that foolish. :) I would love to shoot this Bodyguard again, even if the repaired gun is less than pretty.

Thanks for any advice.


Tony
 
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Why wouldn't S&W at least offer you a new gun? Is it because of it's age? What age does S&W consider 'OLD' and refuse to replace a revolver? Meaning...what year did they start their "Lifetime" warranty policy?
 
I'm sure I've read (from S&W) that the lifetime warranty covers handguns made since Feb. 1, 1989. It covers the original purchaser, but they've been very generous in that regard and typically don't ask.

The Airweight frame is dead.
tombstone.gif


edit: I found it. It's on pg. 27 of this manual.
http://www.smith-wesson.com/wcsstore/SmWesson/upload/other/PC945.pdf
 
Last edited:
Glock 'em down said:
Why wouldn't S&W at least offer you a new gun? Is it because of it's age? What age does S&W consider 'OLD' and refuse to replace a revolver? Meaning...what year did they start their "Lifetime" warranty policy?
Click to expand...
Good question.


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Thanks

Thanks for the replies, guys.

I was disappointed at Smith & Wesson's response. I understand that they didn't "owe" me a new gun, as this one pre-dated the lifetime guarantee they now offer. But, I had read several online postings of owners who had the same problem with the Model 38s, and they wound up having their guns replaced.

The first person I spoke to in the repair department was, to put it kindly, a jerk. The second person who called me after my gun arrived in Springfield was cordial, but only offered to sell me a Model 438 at a discount - $410, which seemed pretty much like full price. :)

The experience was not what I had hoped for.

I bought the revolver this summer, and though I didn't carefully check the frame when I arrived, it came from a long-term member of this forum, so I'm certain it was fine. I shot approximately 25 rounds of standard pressure .38 Special through the gun before discovering the crack. I've shot hundreds of rounds through a lightweight Taurus 85, and it's still crack-free - I expected more from the Model 38.

Thanks again for the replies.


Tony
 
I have a model 37 that came through the shop a few years ago with the same problem. My father parted it out- and I claimed the frame, sideplate, and yoke. After buying a parts kit, I rebuilt the revolver.
For the barrel, I fit the replacement one as per any other S&W. I then relieved the barrel shoulder so it would tighten up by hand only- to alleviate stress on the cracked frame. I then set it permanently in place with JB Weld and replaced the pin.
So far I have about 150 rounds of standard .38 down the tube, with no problems. I suspect it will fail again in the future, but I couldn't pass up a cheap shooter:)

I wouldn't do this on a customers gun, for liability's sake, more for an experiment than anything.
 
Tony, sorry but that determination is up to the service department and we have seen it go either way...bet they figure "out of a reasonable time frame" (warrenty) so the price would be a replacement at "cost" ( who'se, we could never figure out but it sure is less than "retail")
I would NOT try and 'J-B ' weld it, and the crack could probably be rewelded by some "alloy type expert" but at what cost? and what would it look like " and how would it refinish?? tough call, I've seen and heard of folks who just kept on shooting them, and others , it came apart..one can never tell, and do YOU want to take the chance??
yes, the crack most likely originated with the installl of the barrel, over tightened, and may have been hardly noticeable at first, but could have 'expanded' ( continued) with use.
On the other hand, did the party selling you the gun "knowingly" sell you a 'pig in a poke'??? won't be the first time we've seen guys "pass the buck....." usually this happens ALL too often at the average gun show. Caveat emptor baby..................
Good luck, hopefully better than your having.................
 
sorry to hear this,they replaced a few of them for me and even offered to change models as I was swamped with 637s I got a Model 10 from them.I guess they got tired of this it was a few years ago and I'm sure this forum lead to several others getting replaced as well.
Even though they changed them out for me I still lost some mont older guns for new ones with locks ...but I didnt have a paperweight.

Jason
 
It could be that the person who sold you the gun put 38+p in it. back in the 70s +p could not be fire in airweight frames.
 
39mod00.jpg

I cracked the frame of my M39 in the process of converting it to shoot .38 special wad cutters. The crack was about one inch long and went completely through the metal. I had a friend that does marine welding and fabrication weld the crack. I completed the grinding and shaping of the weld and finished the handle with Birchwood Casey Aluminum Black metal finish. The grip had held up to hundreds of rounds and the side that was cracked looks just like the unrepaired other side of the grip frame. I would have no second thought about having any alloy framed gun repaired by a qualified welder.
Mark
 
Nice picture Mark, and as I stated above, the guys who "know" what they are doing can weld ANYTHING today...............it is the 'final' finish I would be concerned about.
 
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