I think I've probably seen 2-3 thread topics in the last few days that included extractor/extractor pin removal in 3rd gen guns. I've posted comments in at least one of them.
Bottom line ... leave them alone unless they have to be removed for repair. It's that simple.
That's what S&W teaches its armorers.
Frequent removal isn't done for routine cleaning or just to check things out. It's done for repair (replacement) of the extractor and/or its spring.
While spring replacement is pretty simple (once the extractor is removed), there are different weight springs available if needed for repair purpose in a particular gun. (Notice the different extractor springs shown in various 3rd gen guns in the Parts List?) Checking the spring tension in the assembled slide is not so simple, though, and requires a force dial gauge to check for tension (there's a standard recommended tension range, although circumstances, and specific guns, might require some variance in order to achieve proper functioning).
Replacing a damaged extractor is not so simple. It generally requires some filing on the extractor's adjustment pad, and a Go/No-Go bar gauge to determine when the proper adjustment has been achieved.
In the 3rd gen armorer classes they generally have 2 guns for each student nowadays (it used to be more), an "extractor/sight removal" demo gun, and a gun for everything else the student is going to do while learning to work on them. The reason? The slides take a beating from having the sight bases & extractor pins removed so much. Damaging or wallowing out extractor pin holes can ruin slides. The student demo guns which aren't used for extractor/sight training can have new parts installed and be sold as used guns later on. The other guns might require new slides, which costs more.
The solid pins are installed with a press and it takes a couple of different punches, a large ball peen hammer, some concentration and a judicious amount of effort to remove an extractor pin for the first time ... without damaging the slide. The solid pins aren't tapered, but the pin hole is smaller at the top than at the bottom. Improper pin removal ... or the attempt ... risks damaging the slide and maybe ruining it. There are NO "over-size" extractor pins available, and the extractors have the proper size hole in them to allow them to pivot around the standard solid pins.
Armorers used to be given a tapered needle reamer tool to use to clean out extractor pin holes in the slide which might contain burrs. We were strongly cautioned not to use the reamers needlessly, or excessively, so the holes wouldn't be ruined regarding spec. Now, that tool hasn't been in the tool kits for the last 3 recert classes I've attended for the 3rd gen guns. Maybe that's because it's not really needed for the more precisely made guns of more recent manufacture ... and maybe it's because somebody finally decided armorers didn't need that reamer anymore than they needed to be given a Dremel.
Dunno.
FWIW, when I check the extractor in "used" or service 3rd gen pistols, I check for the normal freedom of movement (experience), and then I can check for spring tension and extractor hook reach/position in the breech face using the proper gauges. I don't remove an extractor unless it's actually required for repair.
Just my thoughts, though.
