Changing out the Frame Stud

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My 2nd model 44HE has a frame stud so worn that the cylinder slips past it. It is almost flush with the frame. How do you install a new one. It looks like it was pressed in. I have a new one from Numrich, but don't how to get the old one out. I suppose putting it on a drill press and drilling it out might work!!! Or maybe this is a task for a gunsmith??? HELP!
GUYS!
 
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I am a do-it yourself kind of guy, but unless you are very well versed in S&W Gunsmithing and have ALL the proper tools, patience and skills, I'd let that job be performed by either the Factory or a really good GS. Removing it and replacing it without doing any damage to the original finish is a challenge, and on an old gun like that you don't want to have to refinish the whole revolver. It also depends on what the condition of the gun is, how much it means to you, and weather or not you are OCD like me!

The second option is to leave it the way it is. I'll just assume that this is NOT your CCW or SD gun, and that fast reloads or perfect 100% operation of the swing out cylinder is nice but not a necessity. Sometimes on these old guns things are better left alone, UNLESS whoever you send it to will guarantee you that you will be fully satisfied when it comes back. Tough call, good luck.

Chief38
 
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I am interested in an answer to this to. I have a .44 with the same problem.But my gun also needs a complete refinish. I have been thinking about sending it to Fords to be renickled. Does anyone know if they do that kind of work?
 
I watched my gunsmith do this on an old 27.He used a punch and tapped it out from inside the frame.The new one was installed and peened from the inside and cold blued.But he had all the tools for the job.
 
Frame stud change out is as follows:

Drill a hole in a hard wood block that will pass the stud,
Put the side plate on the block with the stud over the hole and use a small punch to gently tap out the old stud.

Put a dab of Loctite Red in the plate hole and insert the new stud, rotating it to the correct orientation. MAKE SURE it doesn't rotate during staking.

Put the side plate on a bench anvil that's padded with a piece of sheet brass.
Make sure the stud itself is level and on the brass protector.
Use a 3/8 size (Large) center punch with a well-rounded off point. You want a round point not a sharp.

Use a small hammer to re-stake the hollow tube on the new stud, then finish it with a flat face punch or short steel rod.
Make sure the rivet on the new stud is flush enough that it won't interfere with the action.

After the Loctite has had 24 hours to cure, scrub the excess off with hot soapy water and a brush.

Install the side plate and cylinder and use a small flat file with a safe edge to fit the cylinder clearance cuts on the new stud. Be careful not to over cut and allow the cylinder to ride over the new stud.
Use the old stud as a guide, but don't over cut.
Touch up the cuts with cold blue.

The cylinder should smoothly open with no dragging or catching and at no point should the cylinder be able to over ride the stud and move to the rear.
 
Stud Changeout

dfarriswheel, thanks for the detailed info. It seems fairly simple given the attention to detail required. My old 44HE is also very used with zero finish and is in need of a 5" barrel replacement and setback, new cylinder stop to cleanup side play, and frame stud replacement. I also plan to replace the ejector rod, its knob, and very warn star ejector/rachet. I have managed to find good replacement parts to bring the old shooter back from the dead, knowing introducing new parts to an old frame will present challenges. I even found a great 5" replacement barrel from one of our members. Combat, I too will probably send this one to Fords when the mechanics are done. The result will be my own custom 44. Fords employs 3 full time gunsmiths, give them a call. I'm sure that they will change out the stud prior to their finish work.
 
Frame Stud

Combat, forgot to mention, Numrich has the frame studs for $2.80 that fit the model 1917 N frame which also is what the 2nd model 44HE is built on, part number is 374260.
 
Thanks for the info, I've been needing to order some stuff from Numrich anyway so I'll just add that.
 

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