Midway must have discontinued these a while ago. Any recommended substitutes out there?
B-Square Frozen Screw Jack
B-Square Frozen Screw Jack
Frozen screw Jack
- Thread starter Schof45
- Start date
tomcatt51
Member
Impact wrench. The kind you wack with a hammer. They typically use the same 1/4" hex bits.
OP
Not sure I want to use an impact wrench on my 138 year old Schofield.
texmex
Member
Then I guess my suggestion of a blow torch is out of the question also. Maybe instead of heat, you could try cold. Get your local dermatologist to let you borrow his liquid nitrogen squirter. If you can get it on the screw, maybe it will shrink a little and get broken loose.
Just because Mid Way no longer carries the product doesn't mean B Square may not still make it or have some left overs on hand. Have you contacted them directly?
If the screw is frozen, or you expect it is, PB Parts Blaster (may require several applications) may free it up. I also recall Oil of Wintergreen being suggested as a penetrant.
There is an alternative, low tech way that might work. Use a candle to apply heat. Hold the part above it. In addition to the heat, the theory is that wax molecules in the flame will penetrate the part(s) and help ease the fastener out. Dunno if the theory is accurate, but it worked on some Loc-Tited set screws in aluminum.
If you have access to a drill press or milling machine, the quill of either can apply downward pressure to a chucked 1/4 inch screwdriver bit. You use your hand or a rod into the pivot holes for the chuck key (or a 1/4 inch wrench if there's enough hex shaft on the bit) to turn the screw. Just make sure the bit is hollow ground and properly fits the screw slot.
One thing you should recall is that the screws in that Schofield probably aren't heat treated like modern gun screws. It's entirely possible to twist the head off. This means a trip to a good gunsmith/machinist to drill out the screw and clean up the threads. Plus, finding a replacement screw.
Let us know how your project turns out.
If the screw is frozen, or you expect it is, PB Parts Blaster (may require several applications) may free it up. I also recall Oil of Wintergreen being suggested as a penetrant.
There is an alternative, low tech way that might work. Use a candle to apply heat. Hold the part above it. In addition to the heat, the theory is that wax molecules in the flame will penetrate the part(s) and help ease the fastener out. Dunno if the theory is accurate, but it worked on some Loc-Tited set screws in aluminum.
If you have access to a drill press or milling machine, the quill of either can apply downward pressure to a chucked 1/4 inch screwdriver bit. You use your hand or a rod into the pivot holes for the chuck key (or a 1/4 inch wrench if there's enough hex shaft on the bit) to turn the screw. Just make sure the bit is hollow ground and properly fits the screw slot.
One thing you should recall is that the screws in that Schofield probably aren't heat treated like modern gun screws. It's entirely possible to twist the head off. This means a trip to a good gunsmith/machinist to drill out the screw and clean up the threads. Plus, finding a replacement screw.
Let us know how your project turns out.
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TAROMAN
US Veteran
Pretty simple device. Wouldn't be hard to make one.
Another option is to have the screw blasted out by electro discharge machining (EDM).
I had a steel stud in aluminum. EDM removed so clean that the aluminum threads were untouched.
Another option is to have the screw blasted out by electro discharge machining (EDM).
I had a steel stud in aluminum. EDM removed so clean that the aluminum threads were untouched.
Kroil is your friend, just let it soak for several days. Try a gentle "tweak" to tighten, then the screw will back right out. This method has worked for me on stubborn threaded fasteners.
Big Cholla
Member
This is the way to go IMHO and experience. I must add one little technique that adds wonders to the above. When you are ready to try backing out the stuck screw and with a PROPERLY fitted screw driver get the aid of someone else to use a small brass hammer to GENTLY tap the head of the screw driver handle while you apply torque. Do this both in the first effort to tighten the screw slightly and then do it continually while applying the backout torque. I have never had to use heat while using this Kroil and gentle tapping method. ............ Big Cholla
varmint243
Member
- Joined
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I recently tried a 50/50 mix of DEXRON VI and Acetone
I had read about this on another forum
It worked very well
You have to shake it up just before application
The acetone doesn't fully dissolve the ATF
I am about to try the experiment again using 50/50 MMO and Acetone
I had read about this on another forum
It worked very well
You have to shake it up just before application
The acetone doesn't fully dissolve the ATF
I am about to try the experiment again using 50/50 MMO and Acetone
MichiganScott
Member
My gunsmith uses this method for frozen screws. I once watched him shatter a Brownell's bit trying to get a guard screw loose from a military Mauser. He eventually got it out by applying heat from a soldering iron directly to the screw before going back to the drill press.
Even on your Schofield a hammer driver is an option. You control the amount of force applied. You don't have to whack it with a three pound sledge. All you need to do is hit it hard enough to break the screw loose so you can remove it with a screwdriver.
OP
Thanks to everybody for taking the time and some great input, now I have several tested methods to try.
