Symptoms of a weak recoil spring?

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mistersmith

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What exactly are the symptoms of a weak recoil spring?

I have a lightly used 39-2 that's not extracting and was wondering if the recoil spring would play any roll in this, some how I doubt it, hence my question.

I would think that a weak spring would allow the gun to cycle more freely. Could a new or strong spring chamber a round with so much force as to jam it in the chamber thus overpowering the ability of the extractor to pull it out.Just a thought.
Thanks
 
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A Straight walled pistol cartridge headspaces on the case mouth. Unless you put a roll crimp on one it can only push the case in so far. If your rounds stick in the chamber it is more likely than not caused by a round loaded too long and the bullet is jamming in the lands.

A weak recoil spring will cause malfunctions and let the slide peen the frame as it slams back without the buffering of a stronger spring.
 
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I weak recoil spring would allow the gun to violently eject spent casings further than normal. Extraction issues can be caused by a host of issues. The first thing to do is to stop using reloads, if you are, and test with factory loads. It's a process of elimination.
 
Thanks for all the replies.
With the gun disassembled I can press a round into the chamber to the point that it sticks and requires two fingers to pull it out, there is definitely some drag there. If I remove then rotate the round the drag is much less, I've tried this with several different brands with the same results.

I think I'll coat a round with Dykem, press it in and see where it rubs.
 
Are they factory or reloads? Have you brushed the camber with solvent to make sure it's clean?
 
The reloads were Federal Munitions factory reloads. I did clean and inspect the chamber but will do it again.

I've DyKem'd 6 rounds and will drop them in the chamber one by one to see where they are sticking.

i started another thread"39-2 FTE" and have already been prompted to replace the recoil spring but no one can tell me why.

If anything I think I need a new extractor spring and a good chamber cleaning.
 
mistersmith said:
If anything I think I need a new extractor spring and a good chamber cleaning.
Click to expand...

You're on the right track. You may want to check the chamber for roughness too. Some polishing may be needed. Don't ignore the extractor itself either. Make sure the end isn't damaged or suffered a DIY gunsmithing by a previous owner.
 
It would appear that I have a "sticky" chamber that's aiding my FTE issues.
Compared to a lightly used 639 who's rounds drop in and fall out of the chamber, mine appear to be hanging up in the chamber and need to be tapped or picked out with two fingers. These also seems to be some resistance chambering the round in the last mm of travel, this plus a weaker extractor spring is the cause of my problem.
Is it possible to machine/polish/grind/beat the chamber into the correct dimension. How common is this issue.
Thanks
 
I would definitely start with a though cleaning and if that doesn't work maybe try a polish.

I'd start with something mildly abrasive or very fine grit. Maybe like valve lapping compound in the 400 to 600 grit range. This is just a guess. Hopefully someone more knowledgeable can help.

I would avoid going down the the beat/grind/machine road unless it's a last resort and you are fine risking that the barrel might be ruined...
 
I would take a tight fitting brash cleaning brush, and use it on a small drill motor with lots of solvent. If that doesn't cure it, try this. Take a fired case from another gun and drill out the prime pocket and tap it to fit a 1/4 20 bolt. Then cut the head of a long 1/4" 20 bolt and thread the case on tight. Get some fine valve grinding paste and coat the case and then use it to lap the chamber moving the case in and out a bit as you turn it. If that don't work, rent a finishing reamer. Oil it up and clean up you chamber.

Either that or take it to a gun smith. Did it ever work correctly for yiou?
 
Gave in and dropped it off at a local gunsmith today. Hopefully he knows his stuff and I'll have a shootable gun in a week or so. Would like to have been able to do it myself but was getting a little frustrated, best to let a pro tackle it.
Thanks
 
You didn't mention whether it was failing to extract a live cartridge or spent . If you're having to force the unfired reloads into the chamber, the most likely cause is the reloader failed to remove all of the case mouth flare after seating the bullet. That belled case mouth edge will drag on the chamber walls .
 
It's the fired case that wont extract-every time with new Blazer Brass. The Federal Munitions reloads that I use seem to run a lot better, only one in 4-5 fail to extract.
Either way, it's in the hands of the Smithy now.
 
For discussions sake, how fast is your load? Is there a possibility your load does not develop enough velocity/pressure to move the slide to the rear sharp enough to initiate proper ejection? Also, if loads are sticking is it the case or the bullet nose? Is your load too long and jamming into the rifling?
 
I can't answer your question as all I fired are factory loaded ammo. The gun does seem to do better with 115g rather than 124g ammo.
 
Match recoil spring to ammo

Hi Bonkers,
Your description was very helpful! I have been thinking the same thing is happening with my Model 41. I started a thread a few weeks ago: "Model 41- Best ammo to use?" and received many helpful replies mainly to the effect that the Model 41 is designed for CCI SV. My recoil spring had a slight kink in it- it was shooting Mini Mags very well, while with the CCI SV I was having consistent feed, and ejection problems. I replaced the pring with the same standard spring (don't know the strength of either spring though) and have seen no change in performance. I was thinking to order a weaker spring to see if this change would give better performance with the CCI SV. What is your opinion?
 
"Bear something in mind here....MOST of what extracts an empty pistol case is NOT the extractor, but the inertia imparted to the case by the barrel unlocking, and the "piston effect" of the case itself, bearing against the breech face. The CORE of case extraction is the case head itself acting like a piston directly to drive the slide back. The "extractor" is part of the "secondary" extraction that insures the case is carried rearward by the slide as the slide/barrel/case part company thrusting against the recoil spring and begin to RAPIDLY loose energy. Extractors and extractor springs get a whole lotta bad press for nothing more than being unable to compensate for weakling ammo."

Some years ago, my Colt GM .38 Super suddenly began not extracting fired cases at all. They stayed in the chamber. The tip of the extractor claw had broken off. I replaced the extractor, no more problems.
 
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