I've not been able to remove the grips on the RP I bought as a house warming present. I removed the sideplate and the insides were caked with dried oil and grit. Did a rough clean but don't want to go further until I can get the grips off. Tried penetrating oil, for a week or so. Tried gently tapping the screwdriver. I'm about to try heating the screw with a soldering iron.
Any tips on removing a stuck grip screw?
- Thread starter walnutred
- Start date
Fishinfool
Member
I wonder if someone might have used a thread locking compound at some point in the past? If so, heat usually works, I would just be careful not to get it so hot as to burn the wood. If nothing else works, carefully drilling out the screws head may be an option.
Larry
Larry
They might have used thread lock but I suspect corrosion. At some point this pistol was reblued and not properly lubricated after the degreasing. When I bought the gun the pawl plunger was stuck in the sideplate so the cylinder would not advance unless the pistol was pointed down. Freeing it took some penetrating oil, a few days time and gently taping the side of the plunger with a bronze punch to work the oil in.
What were you using for a penetrating oil? Kroil, PB Blaster and 50/50 mix of acetone and tranny fluid all give good results. Much better than wd40 brand penetrating oil.
A little heat from a soldering gun tip to both ends of the screw can help. People put all kinds of stuff on the screws when they assemble guns.
Schellac, nail polish, linseed oil, varnish, super glue.
They all work in various capacitys as a thread locker.
Super Glue will freeze it up so tight you'd think it was done with green LockTite, but you have to assemble the parts FAST!
Anyway..keep the heat on the screw itself. It'll transfer to the escutcheon(s). You don't want to heat the wood any more than the process will do on it's own.
One reason they may be locked up in the first place is that one or both of the grip escutcheons was loose, especially the threaded one.
They couldn't tighten the grips in place so some locking formula of whatever type was squeezed into place around the escutcheon to freeze it in place.
SuperGlue works fast like I said in the thin voids that allow the ecutcheon to slip and hold it in place fast. Any liquid stuff still dripping around that gets into the threads when the screw is run thru will do the same to that screw when tightened.
A soldering gun will loosen the stuff, but if the above assumption of the loose escutcheon is also correct, that'll start turning again with the screw. You'll have to at that point hold the escutcheon in place with a scribe point or other small tool while trying to unwind the screw.
3 hands helps or just your two and a bench vise to hold the pistol.
They can be a real pain sometimes,,other times they back right out.
Schellac, nail polish, linseed oil, varnish, super glue.
They all work in various capacitys as a thread locker.
Super Glue will freeze it up so tight you'd think it was done with green LockTite, but you have to assemble the parts FAST!
Anyway..keep the heat on the screw itself. It'll transfer to the escutcheon(s). You don't want to heat the wood any more than the process will do on it's own.
One reason they may be locked up in the first place is that one or both of the grip escutcheons was loose, especially the threaded one.
They couldn't tighten the grips in place so some locking formula of whatever type was squeezed into place around the escutcheon to freeze it in place.
SuperGlue works fast like I said in the thin voids that allow the ecutcheon to slip and hold it in place fast. Any liquid stuff still dripping around that gets into the threads when the screw is run thru will do the same to that screw when tightened.
A soldering gun will loosen the stuff, but if the above assumption of the loose escutcheon is also correct, that'll start turning again with the screw. You'll have to at that point hold the escutcheon in place with a scribe point or other small tool while trying to unwind the screw.
3 hands helps or just your two and a bench vise to hold the pistol.
They can be a real pain sometimes,,other times they back right out.
Do they look like the original stocks and are they in good+ condition? We have no idea what you're trying to save.
If not, drill out the nut side escutcheon/screw and move on...
If not, drill out the nut side escutcheon/screw and move on...
I'm pretty sure these are the original grips, checkered with diamonds and gold medallions. But I probably didn't answer your question. This is a 4" Regulation Police in 38 S&W. Serial number is 109XX, which if I interpret other posts correctly puts production somewhere in 1919. Where can I get a replacement escutcheon/screw if I drill it out?
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