Bore brush dry ?
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sureshotbob
Member
I always use mine wet.
Dieseltech56
Member
I soak a patch, run it through, let the bore sit a minute, then run the brush through, then more wet patches. The brush won't hurt anything but it might not be as effective without solvent of some sort
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I always wet mine with a Solvent or Oil and have never used one dry (for 50 + years). Since Bronze Bore Brushes are quite a bit softer I doubt that they could hurt a quality Bore though. Still - it makes me feel better using a solvent or oil with it and believe that they two together have to work better than just the brush itself.
I use Brownell's Bronze Brushes exclusively because I find them superior in every way over the Hoppes and Big Box Store carded ones. For Revolver Cylinders I use the longer Rifle versions that give almost twice the contact length over the handgun versions. Twice the cleaning action with every stroke.
I use Brownell's Bronze Brushes exclusively because I find them superior in every way over the Hoppes and Big Box Store carded ones. For Revolver Cylinders I use the longer Rifle versions that give almost twice the contact length over the handgun versions. Twice the cleaning action with every stroke.
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oysterer
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dry or wet does not matter, it's bronze and can't harm anything.
I run a few wet patches with hoppe's, then a few passes with the brush some times, then 2-3 wet patches with hoppe's, let it sit the rest of the day, then a dry patch to remove any green discoloration and lastly a wet balistol patch and back in the safe. Before shooting a dry patch.
I run a few wet patches with hoppe's, then a few passes with the brush some times, then 2-3 wet patches with hoppe's, let it sit the rest of the day, then a dry patch to remove any green discoloration and lastly a wet balistol patch and back in the safe. Before shooting a dry patch.
I was always told to push the bronze brush all the way through, and to not try to change direction while still in the barrel, primarily to minimize getting the brush stuck in the barrel.
Guess wth a stainless steel brush that could be a potential damage issue.
Guess wth a stainless steel brush that could be a potential damage issue.
Bozz10mm
US Veteran
I always run a very wet patch through the bore and let it sit a few minutes to start working on the carbon deposits. Then run the brush through.
snowman
Member
I used to do as most in this thread do, but saw a thread here a few years ago in which a number of members said that they ran the brush back and forth several times through the bore while it was still dry, so as to loosen up the residue and make it easier for the solvent to remove when it came time for soaked patches to be used. I decided to try that and have been doing it ever since. Seems like a good plan to me.
Regards,
Andy
Regards,
Andy
When I dry brush......
I only dry brush when I'm looking for a quick fix for crud that I know can be knocked off with a dry brush. Like when I'm at the range and switch from 38 ammo to .357.
I only dry brush when I'm looking for a quick fix for crud that I know can be knocked off with a dry brush. Like when I'm at the range and switch from 38 ammo to .357.
I’ve never contemplated running a dry brush/patch down a bore.
When I dry brush......
I only dry brush when I'm looking for a quick fix for crud that I know can be knocked off with a dry brush. Like when I'm at the range and switch from 38 ammo to .357.
I only dry brush when I'm looking for a quick fix for crud that I know can be knocked off with a dry brush. Like when I'm at the range and switch from 38 ammo to .357.
Dry brush, wet then dry patches and done. Less mess.
I don't shoot much in the way of jacketed rounds.
I will wet shotgun barrels before brushing.
I don't shoot much in the way of jacketed rounds.
I will wet shotgun barrels before brushing.
When I am shooting muzzleloaders in competition, I run a dry brush into the bore, then invert the rifle and pull the brush out. This removes a lot of the fouling.
When cleaning them new fangled britch loaders, I usually start with a wet brush.
When cleaning them new fangled britch loaders, I usually start with a wet brush.
dfariswheel
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A bronze brush can't harm the bore used dry.
There is one good reason for using it wet, and that's if you're shooting lead bullets.
Used dry the brush will spray fine particles of lead into the air and you don't need to be inhaling that.
When the brush and bore are wet the lead stays in suspension with the solvent and is flushed out without becoming airborne.
There is one good reason for using it wet, and that's if you're shooting lead bullets.
Used dry the brush will spray fine particles of lead into the air and you don't need to be inhaling that.
When the brush and bore are wet the lead stays in suspension with the solvent and is flushed out without becoming airborne.
mscampbell2734
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This is how I do it. Dry to get thing loose, and a lot will come out with a couple of passes dry, and then soak for 10-15 and brush again.
LoboGunLeather
US Veteran
A properly sized bronze bore brush will not damage a steel bore. I learned to use dry-brushing as the first step in cleaning heavily fouled bores of rifles, submachineguns, machineguns, and anti-tank rifles of all calibers, and from all over the world, while on a temporary assignment at the Fort Benning, GA, post armory where US and foreign weapons were in constant heavy use for training purposes.
I keep my well worn bronze bore brushes for the occasional heavy cleaning requirements of pistols and revolvers fired extensively with lead bullets. Wrap the worn brush with a couple of turns of 0000-grade steel wool to scrub out the worst leading and other fouling, followed by routine cleaning. No damage will ever be done.
Solvent is needed to remove copper fouling from jacketed bullets and powder residue. I apply solvent with a bore patch, let the piece sit for an hour, then bore brush, wet patches, and dry patches until completely clean.
I never oil a bore unless the firearm is going into long-term storage. Guns coming out of long-term storage need a proper cleaning before next use.
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