notsofast
Member
Can a model 24, 44spcl be converted to a 44mag? If it can how much is involved? And are model 29/629’s made stronger than a M24? Thanks
Model 24 magnum conversion?
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It can be done. Pretty much requires replacing the cylinder with a longer one to chamber the 44 magnum round, and that requires replacing or modifying (shortening) the barrel to match.
Unless you are a master gunsmith the amount it would cost to pay someone who is to do this work would far exceed the cost to just buy a M29 instead.
I'm guessing that you probably aren't a master gunsmith, because if you were you wouldn't be asking the question.
Unless you are a master gunsmith the amount it would cost to pay someone who is to do this work would far exceed the cost to just buy a M29 instead.
I'm guessing that you probably aren't a master gunsmith, because if you were you wouldn't be asking the question.
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It has been said by well-placed authorities that the heat-treatment for Magnum revolvers differed from non-Magnums. Adding this to the cost and complexity of a conversion and it doesn't make a great deal of sense.
However, if you want the tapered barrel look, it would be simple to swap a model 24/624 barrel onto a model 29 with just shortening the forcing cone. Or better still, finding a 4" 629 Mountain Gun. Good luck in your decision.
However, if you want the tapered barrel look, it would be simple to swap a model 24/624 barrel onto a model 29 with just shortening the forcing cone. Or better still, finding a 4" 629 Mountain Gun. Good luck in your decision.
Yes and No. You can ream the cylinders to accept the 44 mag brass, but the cylinder will still be too short for SOME standard length ammo. The noses of the bullets would stick out of the front of the cylinder and cause it to bind on the forcing cone. If you reload you can set the bullets deeper, but this raises pressure and can be a problem if you are loading at or near top of the range.
No. The cylinder window is the same size, but the magnum cylinder is longer (front to back) and the barrel is shorter by an equivalent amount. The closest thing to a "conversion" cylinder would be to buy a 44 magnum cylinder from a Model 29.
Yes - either that or the barrel would also need to be replaced with one from a model 29 as previously mentioned. Cutting the forcing cone off the barrel and then re-cutting a new forcing cone would be the most expensive part of the proposition. Probably more expensive than buying a replacement barrel.
If a person already had the Model 24, it would be cheaper to buy a Model 29 than it would to modify the 24. In addition to costing less there is the additional benefit of having both guns.
So the big question, is why would anyone even consider paying someone to modify a Model 24 to shoot magnum rounds? If a person has the skills and tools to do the work themselves, and could get the parts cheaply enough, it would be an interesting project. Otherwise it would be cost prohibitive.
Actually trimming the barrel extension and re cutting the forcing cone is easy and does not require the barrel to be removed. Tool works like this shart goes through a guide then though barrel, cutter is screwed on. Tool is turned by hand and cylinder is checked untill you get gap. Then, the cutter is replaced with a tapered forcing cone cutter and after forcing cone is cut, the cutter is replaced with a brass lap piece and you coat that with valve grinding compound to polish the forcing cone. Doesn't take an hour with the right tool.
I also believe that at this point in time the heat treat for all the frames is the same. The difference is optimum HT for 4140 is the addition of an normilization cycle prior to hardening and tempering. As lots of frames are stuck int he oven at once and it is a controlled oven why would the skip the step and add to the tracking problem as frames pass through the machining phases. Same heat treatment is used for B16 studs to achieve maximum yield strength with 4140 used in industry and the make those by the ton. The expense of B16 studs is slightly higher than B7 studs which are the same 4140 alloy, but with B7 the normalization cycle is skipped. But, with studs we are talking tons upon tons of them. One refinery, during a shutdown, easily goes through more tons of 4140 in studs than S&W goes through in an entire year of production.
I also believe that at this point in time the heat treat for all the frames is the same. The difference is optimum HT for 4140 is the addition of an normilization cycle prior to hardening and tempering. As lots of frames are stuck int he oven at once and it is a controlled oven why would the skip the step and add to the tracking problem as frames pass through the machining phases. Same heat treatment is used for B16 studs to achieve maximum yield strength with 4140 used in industry and the make those by the ton. The expense of B16 studs is slightly higher than B7 studs which are the same 4140 alloy, but with B7 the normalization cycle is skipped. But, with studs we are talking tons upon tons of them. One refinery, during a shutdown, easily goes through more tons of 4140 in studs than S&W goes through in an entire year of production.
SLT223
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According to S&W, they are all the same after WWII. I've called and asked.
I struggle to find the advantage of running two different heat treatment processes. Seems like a great way to cause liability when they build a magnum on the wrong frame.
I would agree to go the MG route unless OP wants a 6" tapered BBL .44 Mag. Hanejector had a one of one 6" 29 MG and auctioned it on GB...only pulled $1100 if I recall correctly.
Has anyone ever wondered why so many guys with magnums want to shoot reduced loads and guys with standard calibers want to shoot magnum loads?
Engine49guy
Member
Are you talking about a Model 24 (no dash) or a Model 24 - ?
IIRC there were some "classic" MIM-IL Model 24's made a few years ago that actually had .44 magnum cylinders to save production costs.
Can you be more specific on the model you have or are looking at ?
Usually easier to just sell the gun then buy the one in the caliber you desire rather than convert.
^^^Yes. There are plenty of guns available in the caliber of your choice. Why try to make one that doesn't quite fit the mold?
Just FYI:
With a drill you can drill and with a mill you can mill.
But with a vehicle, you don't vehicle, you drive it.
Work done on a lathe is not "lathed".
The circumference of the work piece is TURNED DOWN.
The end of the work piece is FACED OFF.
The barrel throat therefore would need to be faced off.
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The "barrel extension" would need to be faced off, then the forcing cone re cut or reamed. The barrel extension is the piece of barrel that protrudes through the frame into the frame window, the forcing cone is the tapered entrance into the bore.
I did barrel extension adjustments in a lathe before I got the tooling from Brownells. The major pain is getting it centered in a 4 jaw chuck and not marring it. I used thin pieces of copper on the jaws. Then would take the frame, with the cylinder on the yoke, but no ejector rod and turn it on, but you off course would have a hard time torquing it up to time in a lathe so some math was necessary. At 180 degrees out you will gain a tiny bit less than 0.014 with the 36 to the inch threads, So if your aiming for .004-.005 you sho0 for a 0.018-9. Kind of a pain in a lathe. Much easier with cutter system I described.
I also did a 38 barrel to take a model 19 cylinder and simply used a file. There the adjustment is pretty small. Safed a file on its sides, then stuck a thin piece of stainless between the barrel extension and the frame. with Barrel vertical in padded vice went to work. If you hold the file flat to the work and move it flat to the work it will cut flat and true. Worked fine. Latter I replaced the 38 barrel with a 357 barrel simply for the markings. That gun has been my experimental learning tool for a long time. A model 10-2. Now has adjustable sights, a recessed model 19 cylinder, round butted and a 2 1/2" 19 barrel. Used a regular 4" ejector rod, just cut it and center pin down and knurled the tip of the ejector rod. Shoots fine. Truely has ZERO collect ability. LOL
I did barrel extension adjustments in a lathe before I got the tooling from Brownells. The major pain is getting it centered in a 4 jaw chuck and not marring it. I used thin pieces of copper on the jaws. Then would take the frame, with the cylinder on the yoke, but no ejector rod and turn it on, but you off course would have a hard time torquing it up to time in a lathe so some math was necessary. At 180 degrees out you will gain a tiny bit less than 0.014 with the 36 to the inch threads, So if your aiming for .004-.005 you sho0 for a 0.018-9. Kind of a pain in a lathe. Much easier with cutter system I described.
I also did a 38 barrel to take a model 19 cylinder and simply used a file. There the adjustment is pretty small. Safed a file on its sides, then stuck a thin piece of stainless between the barrel extension and the frame. with Barrel vertical in padded vice went to work. If you hold the file flat to the work and move it flat to the work it will cut flat and true. Worked fine. Latter I replaced the 38 barrel with a 357 barrel simply for the markings. That gun has been my experimental learning tool for a long time. A model 10-2. Now has adjustable sights, a recessed model 19 cylinder, round butted and a 2 1/2" 19 barrel. Used a regular 4" ejector rod, just cut it and center pin down and knurled the tip of the ejector rod. Shoots fine. Truely has ZERO collect ability. LOL
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PS, if you use a recessed model 29 cylinder your also going to have to adjust the frame lug that the rear face of the cylinder rides on when open, appox .060 for the recesses. If a non recesses cylinder it will work.
Probably is more time and money than it’s worth but something about it has intrigued me. I now have the info on what tools I’ll need, the parts, and the mistakes to avoid. Gonna say there’s a better chance of me doing it than not.
Tried posting pics last night, no workie, hope that’s not a bad omen
Tried posting pics last night, no workie, hope that’s not a bad omen
WHY?
There are so many 44 magnums out there and so few M24 44 specials.
Why take one more M24 out of circulation?
Worse yet, why spend money to do this?
Why not just sell the M24 or trade it for what you want?
If you find a buyer who wants a nice 44 Special (and there's lots of such guys) you'll probably be able to sell the M24 for more than the cost of the gun you want.
Sorry for being blunt, it's not anything personal, but it seems ridiculous to even consider this sort of conversion.
Jim
There are so many 44 magnums out there and so few M24 44 specials.
Why take one more M24 out of circulation?
Worse yet, why spend money to do this?
Why not just sell the M24 or trade it for what you want?
If you find a buyer who wants a nice 44 Special (and there's lots of such guys) you'll probably be able to sell the M24 for more than the cost of the gun you want.
Sorry for being blunt, it's not anything personal, but it seems ridiculous to even consider this sort of conversion.
Jim
Arisin Wind
Member
The 44 Special and 44 Magnum are the same caliber.
My model 24 is not being taken out of circulation as it’s already spoken for. When finished it will be more interesting than ridiculous, that being said yes beauty is in the eye of the beholder. Not a very common project that certainly would raise eyebrows, I do get it. You won’t hurt my feelings by being blunt, no worries there, and about it being ridiculous, well that never crossed my mind. And for resale, my time is mine and any $$$’s spent I can afford.
RobertJ.
Member
It sounds like a fun but expensive project, that will give you something that is both unique and personal.
But, it would be pure irony if you wound up shooting reduced loads through it more often than not.
But, it would be pure irony if you wound up shooting reduced loads through it more often than not.
