How to reduce double action trigger pull

m41

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I have 2 S&W 637-2 and they both have a double action trigger pull over 12 lbs. and I have a Ruger LCR with a double action pull over 10 lbs. I am looking to put spring kits in to reduce the trigger pull and I don't know what kits I need to buy and if I can install these kit myself or do I need to find a gunsmith to do these repairs.
 
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Wilson Combat, Apex, and Wolff (and others) offer spring kits for the J-frame revolvers. If you are familiar with the procedure for removal of the internal parts you should be able to swap the mainspring and rebound springs supplied in the kits. The Wilson kit is the least expensive I believe, and has received good reviews here on the forum.

Be sure to thoroughly range test the results of your parts swap, particularly if the gun in question is carried. Most of the kits result in about a 15 - 20% reduction in pull weight after installation. (also, remember not to dry cycle your revolver under mainspring tension with the sideplate off)

Custom-Tune« Spring Kit | S&W J Frame-https://shopwilsoncombat.com/
 
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How do you determine which springs you should use?

Well, that's the $64 question. How much do you want to be able to shoot any commercial ammo versus only select handloads? My IDPA Model 66 has a 7# double action trigger vs my "walking around" Model 686 has a 10# trigger. J frames can be even more picky than K/L frames. Just putting in light springs without careful deburring can lead to misfires.
 
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Also note that lighter springs slow the action down and you may not be able to fire it as fast as you want.

Another hazard is short stroking the trigger by failing to allow the trigger to move fully forward and reset.

I've always thought the better idea is to practice with the gun and build up your trigger finger so it's stronger. That makes it feel lighter.
Just buy some snap caps and dry fire.
This will not only strengthen your finger, it'll smooth out the action.
 
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I am going to answer the OP's question about which springs I use, but I am hesitant to do so. Let me explain why.

When I replace the springs in a revolver, I also go over the gun thoroughly to identify and resolve any issues which could affect reliabilty. This includes firing pin length, end shake, headspace, and any wear patterns or friction on the hammer or other internal parts. As one of many checks, if a frame mounted firing pin is less than .492" long, I replace it.

Also, if I want to improve the trigger pull, I polish the rebound slide and a number of other areas. Some of the areas I polish are specifically designed to reduce friction during the trigger return. Smoothing the trigger return insures that the return will still be very brisk, even with a slightly reduced spring. And a brisk trigger return is a requirement for me.

On some revolvers, I have polished the internals and kept the original springs. But I have not, and would not, changed springs without doing any polishing. If I open a revolver to improve the trigger, then careful polishing is required, but changing springs is optional.

Based on all of the above, I consider each revolver to be an entity of its own, and springs which work in one gun are not guaranteed to work in another. This is not a big issue, because I extensively test any gun with a variety of ammunition before I consider it to be trustworthy.

With all of the above stated, I have installed the Wolfe 8 lb mainspring and 13 lb rebound spring in a couple of modern airweight J-frames, and I have not had any misfires with factory .38 special ammo.

The stock mainspring weight is 8.5 lb, so the 8 lb mainspring is a slight reduction. The Wolfe rebound springs are a bit odd with J frames, because the factory J frame rebound springs are shorter than the springs for larger frames, but all of the Wolfe springs are the same length. So with Wolfe springs you use lighter rebound spring in a J-frame, but it is still the standard length. I have found that the Wolfe 13 lb rebound spring is noticeably lighter than the stock spring, but will still give a vigorous return in a well polished J-frame.

This spring combination gives a trigger pull of about 10 lb. That is by no means a light trigger, but it is a noticeable difference from the stock 12 lb pull. And if the parts are polished, so it is a smooth 10 lb trigger, it can feel pretty decent.

I should also note that you need to check the single action pull after you change springs to improve the double action. The lighter rebound spring sometimes makes the single action trigger too light and unsafe. Many people consider a single action trigger under 3 lb to be unsafe, and this something to consider whenever changes are made.

In closing, I want to mention again, that I am not saying that the springs I have described will work in any gun or are suitable for any purpose. I am only offering a suggestion about where you might start your own testing process. Anyone who wants to modify firearms needs to be aware of the risks and possible consequences, and test very carefully.
 

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