I have 3 K frames (2 19s and one 18) all with grooved triggers a couple around .4 and one definitely .5. The issue for me its that they are great for single action target, but now focusing on my DA skills I find it rough on my trigger finger as it slides across during the pull. One option would be to replace the triggers with smooth ones, but this sounds expensive, may require fittiing? and possibly decrease value.

The other option would be to have a smith (or possibly me) smooth the face. One approach might be to just lightly hit it with something to soften the sharp edges. The second approach is to have them completely smooth and slick

Any advice is appreciated.

I smoothed the trigger on model 67 the 'Bubba' way, filled in the grooves with JB Weld.
Works well and no disassembly, no grinding residue, and matches my double action skills!

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Wherever my mind isn't
Jim

If you're concerned about value, getting a second, smooth trigger fitted might be the best option, despite the expense. You can use the smooth trigger, but if you should decide to sell it, you can put the original trigger back in. On the other hand, if you alter the original trigger, that could potentially drop the gun's value. I guess it depends on how you view the cost of fitting a second trigger versus the potential loss in the gun's value. It might be worth it, or it might not.

While I have heard of people just lightly breaking the edges on the trigger serrations, I think a completely smooth surface is best for DA shooting, regardless of the method used to do that.

Just my opinion.

where do I look for replacement smooth trigger?

Take trigger out of gun. Fire up your Dremel. Sanding drum first, followed by emery-impregnated polishing bit.

Gunsmithing - How to Remove the Trigger Serrations on a Smith and Wesson (S&W) Revolver - YouTube

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Hello darknes my old friend

There's several options:

1. The .400" wide triggers also came in a smooth version. If you search for those you'll save time and/or money getting the grooves out. And you'll have the case colored finish on the face of the trigger.

2. Much easier to find and a cheaper alternative is to use the smooth combat trigger that became standard on all models in the early 1980s when all the target trigger options were discontinued. They're wider at .320" wide than the old standard .265" wide trigger. The K, L, and N frame triggers are all the same and interchangeable.

3. Not removing the grooves completely, just to 1/3 or 1/2 the depth is usually satisfactory for preventing a sore trigger finger and the factory appearance still remains.

4. That's a great video above and similar to the method I use. It's a task made for the use of a Dremel tool. But only for the person with a little skill and practice at using it! The most common error to guard against is letting the tool slip off the trigger face and gouging the sides of the trigger; especially with the skinny abrasive wheels!

Once that happens, it's a lot of extra work to get out the gouges, plus the case colors on the sides of the trigger are lost.

Using the abrasive wheel at an angle as shown in the video for the final polish is very risky business. It's extremely easy to slip on to the edge as mentioned above, and also wind up with low points and gouges that take extra final sanding to remove.

5. I always finish up by sanding the surface with 320 grit paper wrapped around a 1/2" or 5/8" wood dowel to completely level the surface, and finally with 400 or 600 grit (your choice) for the final surface finish.

6. Touching up the face of the trigger with cold blue after putting oil on the trigger face surface will give a mottled coloring that resembles the factory case colors. The rougher the final finish like with 320 or 400 grit, the better the touch up finish will last. A final high polished surface will wear away the fastest.

7. If I don't need to take apart the action for a deep cleaning, I remove the grooves with the trigger still installed. Cock the hammer and use a large pencil eraser to prop the hammer back for when you press the trigger too hard and trip the hammer. This will provide access to the grooves on the entire front face of the trigger. Heavily tape around the entire inside of the trigger guard for protection from slips with the tool and sanding paper, and to seal out grinding grit around the trigger opening.

I hope you find these options helpful,

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Jim
S&WCA #819

shoot more, develop a "tough" trigger finger
Don't BUBBA it.

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Still Running Against the Wind

I've smoothed the trigger using the dremel method above.

My guns are not collector pieces, they are shooters, so I'm not concerned if the trigger smoothing "devalues" the gun.

Remove the trigger first, then using your dremmel sanding drum grind out the heavy groves. Then using good canvas backed emery cloth, about 100 grit then 400 grit, cut in 3/8 -1/2" strips polish the face and contour it around the edges also. I have a Mod 640, Mod 19, and 686 all done this way. Very smooth.

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H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244

I always have my gunsmith smooth, radius and polish the triggers on my j frames. I have him replace grooved triggers on k frames with smooth triggers.

Smith has built some wonderful revolvers, but many features are traditional (like grooved triggers) rather than good solutions for those that use their guns!

I replaced with the smooth trigger in my 2 inch M15 smith. I don't want to ruin an original part of the revolver in case I want to sell it in the future.

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Kevin in Oregon

I think I will try to find some smooth triggers. If I don't like for some reason or want to sell (hopefully never) I can go back. I would probably even have a smith change them out. I have been inside my gun before, but I prefer not to risk it. And I wand someone that can tell me absolute for certain the sear is still safe I understand that hammer spring can be a bit tricky.
The Smith will probably clean, and maybe smooth a few parts for not much. The shoot so well in DA, they really don't need a trigger job (my j frame was another story). I must confess I backed off the hammer spring 1/4 on all three. Never any failures to fire, and makes the DA really nice.

Where should I start the look for these triggers? I would like to keep to a S&W part if possible.

As others have said, you don't need to remove the serrations as in the videos, you just need to break the edges. Use a dremel sanding drum it only take a couple passes, a final pass or two for the right hand side edge (assuming your right handed). You'll be surprised how little it takes and how much difference it makes. I have done a few and didn't have to cold blue the areas. Go light and no one will notice on resell.

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Charlie

Brownell's and Midway USA are probably good places to start. If they don't have what you need in stock, you can try Numrich Gun Parts. They sometimes have parts that are hard to find or no longer made.