CPTCUFFS
Member
I have an old model 10 with a bit of rust. If I soak it in evaporust will it remove the bluing also?
rust removal
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You can try 0000 steel wool with a light oil or brass wool if the steel bothers you.
jmiles1960
Member
There are many opinions here on this topic. I have restored / recovered a few revolvers using Hoppe's and four-odd steel wool, soaking the various parts and sections of the gun, and rubbing lightly with the wool dipped in the solvent. I'd recommend wearing disposable gloves too. Good luck. It can be done! Hopefully, you do not have any significant pitting issues; that's another subject.
I would use 0000 bronze wool and Kroil oil for rust removal on a blued firearm. I was given a VZ24 rifle that had spent 60+ years in a basement and it was covered in a fine coating of rust. The broze wool with Kroil removed all the rust without damaging the bluing.
tnmandpshooter
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Kroil works well. I also use 0000 steel wool
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Research, purchase a Big 45 Frontier metal cleaner. Won't harm bluing, the same cannot be said for steel wool. Was introduced to it on RFC forum and have never looked back. Try it, you will be pleasantly surprised/impressed. Works well with Kroil or any quality CLP.
DWalt
Member
I use "Chore Boy" copper scrub pads, along with about any light oil, penetrating oil, or even bore cleaner. You can also use a larger brass bore brush on a gun exterior. I have used steel wool to remove rust in the bore the same way, provided that the rust is not too heavy. It works better than using a bore brush.
kbm6893
Member
I have a Model 10 I bought cheap because of the rust. Took it apart and submerged it in automatic transmission fluid for a week and rubbed it with 0000 steel wool. Took it right off and didn't harm the blue. Took it back to the shop to show the owner. His eyes narrowed and he said "guess you got a good deal, then". Some have said 0000 steel wool is not good but I couldn't find real copper wool and enough people said the steel wool is fine. I had no issues using it
Amazon carries bronze wool.
Try the edge of a new penny. Then wipe off.
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I have Copper and Brass Wool in my tool box, but much prefer 0000 steel wool and CLP for rust removal. While some say it will cause rusting if not removed thoroughly, in 50 years of using steel wool I have NEVER had a problem. YMMV.
I've had good results with OOOO steel wool and plain old WD-40..
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There is a school of thought that one should NOT use a lubricant with fine steel wool or copper wool. The fine particles of oxide, rust, you are removing have abrasive qualities and when removed and suspended in an oil solution will work as additive abrasive on your blued finish. Iron oxide particles are tougher on bluing than copper wool. This can happen even without a lubricant but is thought to occur less if the job is performed dry.
Personally I shun steel wool for firearm freckle removal no mater how fine. Chore Boy is composed of fairly course strands and is pure copper and thus won't scratch steel. Copper wool works even better. Copper wool is not easy to find but can be ordered on-line. Copper wool and Chore Boy both leave a discernible copper hue on the area worked. It comes off completely with a good solvent and a rag when you're through.
I do not use any solvent when working to remove surface oxidation and freckling and seldom end up with any (additional) scratches observable under a 10X hand loupe. You will still see areas of absent bluing, the rust took care of that, after any ablative cleaning but at least the oxidation is mostly gone and no longer progressing.
Good luck!
Personally I shun steel wool for firearm freckle removal no mater how fine. Chore Boy is composed of fairly course strands and is pure copper and thus won't scratch steel. Copper wool works even better. Copper wool is not easy to find but can be ordered on-line. Copper wool and Chore Boy both leave a discernible copper hue on the area worked. It comes off completely with a good solvent and a rag when you're through.
I do not use any solvent when working to remove surface oxidation and freckling and seldom end up with any (additional) scratches observable under a 10X hand loupe. You will still see areas of absent bluing, the rust took care of that, after any ablative cleaning but at least the oxidation is mostly gone and no longer progressing.
Good luck!
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outta_ammo
Member
Unfortunately, that episode—Anvil 064—is no longer available. A good alternate is an earlier Anvil 035 where Mark works on one of Ian McCollum's guns. (anything Mark does is well worth watching)
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gyTlM69FYnU"]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gyTlM69FYnU[/ame]
I like the 3M abrasive pads in the white grade. It goes slowly but does not do a lot of damage to the bluing. I use the with Renwax on old knives, guns and tools. The green pads are much faster but much harsher
I'm still seeing it...
Around the 51 minute mark, btw, is some advice on why
soaking a rusted gun in purpose-made "gun oil" isn't the
best choice.
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rShG_F85W1Y"]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rShG_F85W1Y[/ame]
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