Stop notch peening

18DAI

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I peened the cylinder stop notches on a 686-4+ with 50 rounds of old Winchester 110 grain 357 LSWC. Not badly, but they are peened.

I thought the L-frame was designed to shoot stout 357 "all day long"?

Is there another reason for cylinder notch peening? Regards 18DAI.
 
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I peened the cylinder stop notches on a 686-4+ with 50 rounds of old Winchester 110 grain 357 LSWC. Not badly, but they are peened.

I thought the L-frame was designed to shoot stout 357 "all day long"?

Is there another reason for cylinder notch peening? Regards 18DAI.
 
damage to the notches is sometimes caused by fast double action shooting ( slamming the stop into the notches ). i could be mistaken, but i believe stainless is softer than chrome-moly steel.
 
I see some peening on every SW gun I own. It is made worse by snapping the trigger on a DA pull. Since it is the inertia from the cylinder's mass that does the peening, it gets worse as you go up in frame size.

I believe you are correct that stainless is softer than the standard blue steel, at least it is on all mine. I think stainless cylinders peen more quickly.
 
This is a problem with S&W's stainless steel cylinders, mostly the 625s that see a lot of very fast DA use. It is possible that they are not heat treated properly. My heavily used 625 match gun is beat up pretty badly but it still functions properly. By comparison, my stainless Redhawk has also seen a tremendous amount of fast DA shooting and the cylinder does not have any notch peening.

Dave Sinko
 
Gentlemen this cylinder notch peening has gone far enough,in my opinion when a product is under warranty the problem should be permanently corrected whether it's the stop bolt or the cylinder metallurgy or whatever the cause may be,how many times should an individual return a revolver back to the factory ? Once ? Twice ? Three times ? Or ten times ? People haven't got that much time,strength and energy to deal with this matter ,a revolver with peened stop notches looks ugly and old and undesirable, a couple months ago I returned to S&W a brand new 686 with pretty badly peened stop notches to have the cylinder replaced , the cylinder was replaced according to the invoice but it was more peened than the one that I'd sent back ,people think that it's caused by fast double action,fast single action cocking etc. when I got the revolver back from S&W I hadn't laid a finger on it that the cylinder was peened already, this is ridiculous ,my question is, are we playing games ?Buy a 686 or a 629 and you will find that the cylinder is already peened without even touching the gun, fast double action work won't help but that's not what causes it ,again the problem should be permanently be corrected by S&W because a life time warranty is totally and utterly useless if they don't find a solution to the problem,do I make any sense ?
 
My new 686??

Please excuse me for keeping this post going.
Italbrit, were the notches on your gun anything. Like this? This is a brand new 686 I picked up yesterday, have not fired it yet!
Looks like sloppy machining to me! Not peening. This gun has a nice tight lockup and no end shake. Is this normal for a brand new gun with the notches as is? Of course it probably looks worse in my pics than it is.

Thanks all...
 

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revolver cylinder peening

Yes Jimbombo the stop notches on my brand new 686 look exactly like yours on your pictures ,I returned mine to S&W a few weeks ago ,they replaced the cylinder ,but the new cylinder looked the same as the one I sent back and all this time I've been wracking my brain trying to figure out what causes this problem ,some knowledgeable members of this forum claim that it is caused by fast double action ,but I hadn't laid a finger on the revolver that the peening was already there,according to a S&W representative that's caused by opening and resetting the cylinder ,this means that the cylinder must be OPENED AND RESET ,something that I hadn't done once ,then another very strange thing happens,if you take the revolver outdoors under natural lighting the notches appear just about perfect ,when you take it indoors under artificial lighting the peening reappears, perhaps Jimbombo you would want to try that yourself and see if you get the same results and I would appreciate if you would post it because I don't know where to go from here, especially when some members of this forum claim that I don't make any sense ,all I'm doing is stating facts from what I'm experiencing. Mine has a perfect timing,good lock-up and no endshake just like yours .I also apologise for keeping this thread going Regards
 
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I'm a long time S&W Revolver purchaser/owner. For the past 12 years I have become more involved with collecting/accumulating.

I currently have 35 revolvers in age spanning from as early as 1906 to as recent as 2012, in calibers ranging from .22LR to .44 Magnum, both blued and stainless, in every frame size except for the X-Frame (500 Magnum).

In other words... quite the cross section of what S&W has produced.

Out of curiosity from reading this thread, I checked all of them out, and every single one of them shows the same "peening" marks in varying degree.

I put peening in quotes because many of them are not really peened in the strict sense of the word... there's no real metal displacement, it just looks like it because of the wear mark making it shinny.

What I see under magnification is a varying degree of wear in the shape of the cylinder stop (aka bolt) on the wall of the notch, with the edges of the bolt slots slightly rounded over with the leading edge worn shinny.

On the magnum guns, I see that same raised edge as the pic jimbombo posted, but nothing more substantial than that.

So maybe this is the nature of the beast for S&W revolvers and not really an issue, but an unsightly annoyance, as in the turn lines of Ruger Blackhawks.

I know for a fact on Ruger S/A revolvers, the new model Blackhawks due to the difference in the lock work from the old 3-screw model Blackhawks, the turn lines are more pronounced and appear more quickly on the new model... and that's just the way it is with them. This has been quite the topic of discussion on the Ruger forums too, and noted Gunsmiths have mentioned that Ruger lets the cylinder bolt drag. Someone buying a new gun, and see a turn line immediately appear would also be saying what the... !!!
 

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I've been shooting S&W revolvers for a little over 30 years. I've had some used ones that had seen hard use... showed it. I've had some new ones that I gave hard use. Shoot 'em hard enough long enough and you'll see some wear... turn lines, wear in the cylinder locking notch, end-shake, scrub mark on the recoil shield, thinning of the blue on the front and back of the grip, scuffs and scrapes and dings, etc. I've seen exactly the same type of thing with brand new 1911's, Colt Pythons, Ruger Redhawks, Ruger SA revolvers, etc., etc., etc.

If you buy a new car, economy or high-end, you will if you look hard enough find something to complain about. It is the nature of modern mass production. If you want a car, or a suit or a pair of shoes made exactly to your specifications and made absolutely perfectly, you have to get off your wallet and you have to be willing to wait sometimes a long time because no store/dealer will ever have in stock just exactly what you want made without any possible flaws at all.

Reality is few if any are willing to pay the freight for a custom made pistol. The economies of scale that enter into mass production of consumer goods makes it possible for most folks to afford excellent quality goods that address the general needs/requirements of consumers.

S&W has done a remarkable job of managing to meet consumer demands, develop new products, adapt to changing market demands, negotiate often irrational and even hostile legislative hurdles and develop new calibers/pistols that other manufacturers can only envy and emulate.
 
If it shoots and otherwise operates OK, then ... ?
The minor blemishes that accumulate on a given pistol add to the story.
If you want it 100% then handle it with gloves on about once a year.
 
I generally agree that some degree of peening is inevitable if you use the gun at all. I also see more peening on stainless guns than the blue ones. Many years ago I had a 625-7 that peened so badly, the bolt would completely skip the notches in fast DA shooting. A local gunsmith cleaned all the peening up with a file and the gun was good to go. In retrospect, I suspect that 625-7 came out of the factory with burrs on the stop notches.

I have a 625-6 I use heavily in IPSC-style shooting. The cylinder was noticeably peened. I swapped a 325PD titanium cylinder into the 625 and get virtually no peening with titanium cylinders(harder?).

I put the 625 cylinder in the 325 and like the modest increase in heft.

YMMV
 
Do you plan to ever use the gun or just look at it? Any revolver of any make in any price range will have marks from use. Look at the sole and heel of a pair of new shoes, then wear them for one day of normal walking, then look at them again. Are you going to complain because the surface is scuffed?
 
If the peening bothers you, maybe you should consider buying a .32 1896 HE. They had hardened steel inserts in the stop notches.
 
In my IPSC/ICORE gun it's my goal to shoot fast enough to snap the cylinder stop in half. Never made it there but it's still a goal

So sure, there will be peening
 
Peening

I've got a 625 stainless and the peening looks just about like yours. I have 2,000 plus rds through it 90 % LSWC.

Locks up tight and sticks'em in the 10 ring at 25 yards. Little leading right in the barrel cone. Nothing to sweat.

I shoot a lot of steel at 15 yards, I'm nowhere as quick as JM, I honestly think these peen marks were about the same when I had a hundred rds through it. I don't like'em but I'm gonna wear it out then maybe send it in if I live that long.

Dan :)
 
I have a Nickel Plated Model 36 with 1000 + rounds most very fast double action and maybe 100+ single action with no sign of peening. The plating must prevent this from happening, at least for now.

36-1.jpg


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