Search results

No, I'm not kidding. If the stop cut out has too much slop, side to side, there is a way to make smaller the opening in the frame around the cylinder stop, without welding. What they do is with a tool like a dull punch strike in 4 places (4 corners) around the opening where the stop fits. In...

Sounds like the hammer is damaged or modified. Most likely it needs a new hammer so the SA works.

A little play is normal. If you want it tighter you might stir up problems. First exactly which way is the play? Forward and back is easily fixed. That's called either "yoke end play" or if it's only the cylinder "end shake". Side to side or rotational play is tested with the trigger held to...

You know of course, that the trigger pulls will be heavier when the guns are loaded right? That's because of the extra weight of the cartridges in the cylinder. It requires more power to spin a heavier cylinder. Also, the main springs are adjustable by just messing with the bend or tapping...

Also if you call S&W, they have some.

On a S&W, the part called the bolt is the part that connects to the thumb piece (which swings out the cylinder). The bolt has nothing to do with the cylinder stop sticking in the down position. And yes, one or both need to be changed. Without looking at the problem, I can't tell exactly...

1 more here!

I bought this gun in 03 or 04 After first range visit, firing pin block timing not adjusted correctly from the factory, had misfires, it was cleaned & sent back. Both safties replaced. About 1500 rounds the barrel lug snapped. Winchester ball and my 230 gn reloads fired. This pistol was a...

When they first came out I bought a SW1911. It was reliable, but it was not made very well. I returned it because of the safeties weren't adjusted properly. Soon the barrel lug snapped, so I sent it back and they rebuilt the pistol. I figure they put about 300 bucks worth of parts into the...

It's heavy. Same as a M1 Garand @ around 12 LBS. The junk on top is a PVS-14 with it's 3X military lens. (That's current issue 3RD Gen night vision). With the can there is no flash, plus a quiet muzzle report. It makes a person quiet stealthy in the dead of night. The advantages this gives...

This one is not fake. Just do it right and never look back.

This is a long shot as cylinders are not a drop in part. Try switching the ejectors and see if it even goes in. If you get lucky and it goes together the head space, cylinder air gap and timing need to be checked. On a 38 spl, the head space should be OK so that one you could skip.

Open the cylinder and spin the cylinder in your fingers. Does it spin easily? If not, you need to remove it from the yoke and clean it and lube it. J frames get leaded up like this and bind the cylinder.

Clean under the extractor. & Tighten the side plate screws If it still does it, it's internal.

The problem with going too short is the crimps won't be the same. When I reloaded this cartridge I trimmed all cases to .744 long. .754 is max length.

I'm with gun 4 fun on this. Too tight is not right on a revolver. You will experience at times a heavy trigger pull. Dirt will get under the extractor and she will start to bind. Shoot it first. If it acts up, its easy to loosen up.

Place hammer block over the pin on the rebound block. position the hammer block in front of the hammer. Now, slide the block up as far as it will go. While the block is in that position, place side cover on. Should not bind if done this way.

The right side of the slot is the reference side, that where the hand rides. The left side tip of the hand is what is turning the ratchets. An oversize hand moves the tip further to the left, which rotates the cylinder a few more degrees. Dry fire the gun, hold trigger fully to the rear. Now...

Guys that use silencers use what is refered to as "the dip". Some guys drop gun barrels into the stuff. It's a 50/50 mix solution of white vinegar and hydrogen peroxide. (Guys drop parts into a 1/2 filled jar) This solution poured in a jar will remove lead & copper from suppressors in a few...

No, because the metal rods in a toaster oven (on the food rack) do not turn red. If the metal changes color, then that's where the danger is. This temp I give is from loctite. It took me a while, but here is the website, in the faqs Threadlockers, Thread Sealers, Gasketing, Retaining...