Model 66 won't cock problem.

[BigJimNL1]

I moved this from my other thread with the sight question on my newly acquired Model 66 no dash snubby. Well I shot it this weekend and there is a problem. It shot very well with 38 special and was very accurate. Fired about 25 through it without a problem. Then I went up to 357's and tried some 158 grs. I fired 3 shots out of the cylinder and all was fine. After the 4th shot the hammer did not want to cock. I moved back about 1/4 of the way and seemed locked up. The hammer would not move back any further. I tried with the trigger and same result. I opened the cylinder and all seemed fine. I closed the cylinder on the last two rounds and it would cock by the trigger for the last two rounds. It continued to lock up from then on out even with 38 ammunition. It is still doing the same thing now with an empty cylinder??? It works fine if you put a little pressure on the cylinder while it is turning, but if it is on its own it will lock the hammer about every 3rd pull. I am puzzled. I know a competent local gunsmith and will probably take it to him, but should I send it back to Smith & Wesson for this type of problem. Anyone else experience such a problem? Any advice would be great. On a positive note, I LOVED it while it was shooting well. Very accurate and tame. The combat grips helped I imagine!!! Thanks

 

[500 Magnum Nut]

Clean under the extractor. &
Tighten the side plate screws

If it still does it, it's internal.

 

[rck281]

I had the same problem on a M19-2 and sent it back to Smith. I'm not sure of the proper nomenclature but it was the gas ring that had backed out.

 

[BigJimNL1]

Clean under the extractor. &
Tighten the side plate screws

If it still does it, it's internal.

Thanks for the tips. I found the front side plate screw loose. Tightened it up. Nothing under the extractor really clean just gun oil. Still happening, seems to be a little better.

 

[jt1]

Open the cylinder, and with the cylinder open, push the cylinder latch all the way to the rear. Then, still holding the latch to the rear, see if the trigger and hammer cycle normally in double action. If they do, the problem is something with the cylinder binding. If they don't, the problem is internal. This can help narrow down the issue.

John

 

[crsides]

Check to see if the ejector rod is bent or has unscrewed and backed out a bit. The 66 should have left hand threads. Just see if it needs to be tightened up. If the ejector rod is bent, it will hang up on a couple chambers and not on the others. You can open the cylinder and spin it just like in the movies and watch the end of the ejector rod to see if it wobbles. Its a cheap fix.



Charlie

 

[BigJimNL1]

Open the cylinder, and with the cylinder open, push the cylinder latch all the way to the rear. Then, still holding the latch to the rear, see if the trigger and hammer cycle normally in double action. If they do, the problem is something with the cylinder binding. If they don't, the problem is internal. This can help narrow down the issue.

John

Runs fine with the cylinder open and the release latch all the way to the rear. Seems to be something with the cylinder binding. I can push forward on the cylinder with a little pressure and it seems to run fine as well with the cylinder closed. We seem to be narrowing it down. There is a little cylinder play on the ejector rod with the cylinder open. You can slide it back and forth about a 1/16 of an inch and see more of the gas ring??? Thanks

 

[500 Magnum Nut]

Open the cylinder and spin the cylinder in your fingers. Does it spin easily? If not, you need to remove it from the yoke and clean it and lube it.

J frames get leaded up like this and bind the cylinder.

 

[Flint Ridge]

You might take a look at this video from Midway.

YouTube - How to Repair a Bent Ejector Rod on a S&W Revolver

Just replaced my ejector rod and pin on mine. Certainly did not have issues like yours, but did help the binding.

My recent thread in Gunsmithing - not exactly like your issues, but interesting thoughts re the cylinder.

http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-smithing/173403-model-66-binding-after-100-rounds.html

Certainly try spinning the cylinder - it should turn perfectly, look at the rod - like they show in the video. I could not see how the pin inside could have been bent, but it sure was.

Keep us posted.

 

[BigJimNL1]

The cylinder turns freely and spins as it should. There is the slightest wobble when I spin the cylinder. It is very hard to notice and almost looks like the rod is has a darker spot on one side and that is making it hard to see if it is wobbling. I will watch the midway video. Seems to be getting better is not binding like it did before. The pin in front of the lug which sticks out right under the muzzle seemed to be sticking out more than I thought it should. Tapped on it and it moved in a little bit. I also just watched the video and mine does not wobble anywhere near as bad as the one in the video. Since I have tightened up the front side plate screw it has seemed to have worked itself out. I cannot get it to replicate the issue through dryfiring. I will see how long it lasts. Thanks again for all the suggestions. I will try firing some more rounds through as soon as I get a chance.

 

[scooter123]

A minor wobble won't cause the problems that you are reporting. Take a look at the recoil shield and see if there is any scaring that's been left by the extractor star dragging on the recoil shield. If so, an extractor that is not fully seating due to a bent locating pin or a gas ring that has backed out are the most likely causes.

An extractor rod that's unscrewing can also do this by this usually makes opening the cylinder quite difficult. Just in case hold the cylinder and try loosening the extractor rod by hand, if it's been properly tightened you won't be able to budge it.

One other possibility is a hand that has developed a burr for some reason, or an oversize hand that wasn't properly fitted, possibly due to some work done by a previous owner.

IMO you should have your local gunsmith take a look at it. If he really knows what he's doing it should be an easy repair.

 

[jt1]

Check the very rear of the barrel, right where it meets the cylinder, and check the face of the cylinder. Sometimes lead and powder fouling can build up here and cause the cylinder to bind against the end of the barrel. Sometimes you can see shiny spots where they touch. A good cleaning may be in order.

John

 

[Ranger98]

I just had that exact same problem with a 1982 model 66-2 and sent it to Smith.They replaced the cylinder stop and it runs fine now.

 

[snubbyfan]

Sometimes they just need a good cleaning and relubing. My 442 was shot once and sat in a drawer for 17 years before I got it. The action was stiff and all it needed was a detail cleaning and relube.
Since your 66 snubby seems to be getting better with use, it could just be gunked up.

 

[WardenRoss]

+1 on the loose extractor rod thing.

 

[dfariswheel]

Do another check on cleaning under the ejector.
If you don't hold the muzzle upward when ejecting fired cases, tiny particles of burned powder and grit can get trapped under the ejector.
When you fire the next shots, the grit can actually embed slighting in the metal.
This prevents the ejector from seating fully and that causes sticky cylinder rotation.

Because the tiny particles can be so small they're often impossible to see, and being slightly embedded, normal brushing may not remove them.
Use a brass "toothbrush" to really scrub the under side of the ejector and it's seat in the rear of the cylinder.
The stiffer brass brush will do a better job of removal of any grit. After brushing inspect closely for any pieces of brass bristles left.

If your revolver suddenly develops sticky or resistant cylinder rotation, your first move should be to scrub the cylinder and ejector.
To prevent this, hold the muzzle pointing upward while you eject the cases.

 

[shawn mccarver]

Don't screw around with it yourself. You are not a gunsmith and Model 66 has been out of production long enough that if you cause damage to certain parts, you will have a bunch of spare parts where there used to be a revolver.

Send it to S&W and let them fix it properly.

 

[Nightowl]

With a nice clean gun, I would start at checking the cylinder stop. With the gun empty, watch the cylinder stop as you pull the hammer back. If it does not retract properly, the hand is trying to rotate the cylinder while the cylinder stop is still partly in the stop notch, causing it to bind. If that is the case, a new cylinder stop needs to be fitted. Also, with the cylinder open, check to see that they cylinder stop retracts to below the frame, but not so far as to be below the bottom of the frame where it resides.