tomcatt51
Member
That's why you just submerge it in acetone and wait. It's like removing copper fouling, run a wet patch thru the bore and wait for the solvents to do their job.
Can't loosen extractor rod on K-frame
- Thread starter dpsix
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500 Magnum Nut
Member
No, because the metal rods in a toaster oven (on the food rack) do not turn red. If the metal changes color, then that's where the danger is. This temp I give is from loctite.
It took me a while, but here is the website, in the faqs
Threadlockers, Thread Sealers, Gasketing, Retaining. Loctite® Anaerobic Adhesives For Professionals.
Look at the third question from the top..........I cannot get assembly apart.......
On this website it shows that over 400C / 750F is where metal begins to change color...
http://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/wiki/Temperature_when_metal_glows_red
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500 Magnum Nut
Member
Guys that use silencers use what is refered to as "the dip". Some guys drop gun barrels into the stuff.
It's a 50/50 mix solution of white vinegar and hydrogen peroxide. (Guys drop parts into a 1/2 filled jar) This solution poured in a jar will remove lead & copper from suppressors in a few hours or less. However it eats aluminum so you can't use this acid on that type of metal.
Hydrogen peroxide + vinegar will create Peracetic acid which continuously outgases oxygen. That means that if you leave the lid on a jar tightly for an extended period, the jar might burst, spraying glass and acid all over the place.
Use with care, liquidfied lead can kill you! Dispose of old acid properly.
tomcatt51
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tomcatt51,
I have seen the red substance on the thumb screws many many times and I have always wondered if it is "Locktite". No doubt that it is some sort or brand of thread locker, but since the Red Locktite is extremely difficult to loosen, and the yoke screw comes out fairly easy, I always question weather or not it is "Locktite". Maybe some other sort of mild type of locker.
Chief38
I have seen the red substance on the thumb screws many many times and I have always wondered if it is "Locktite". No doubt that it is some sort or brand of thread locker, but since the Red Locktite is extremely difficult to loosen, and the yoke screw comes out fairly easy, I always question weather or not it is "Locktite". Maybe some other sort of mild type of locker.
Chief38
tomcatt51
Member
I didn't represent it as being Loctite (spelling) or red Loctite. Simply that it was factory applied thread locker.
My guns get the ejector rod, yoke screw, and strain screw blue Loctited. Why? Because they tend to come loose. I don't like being the guy with his cyl/yoke assembly falling on the ground during reloads, or with the loose ejector tieing up the gun. It's really annoying in the middle of a stage. Blue Loctite used SPARINGLY keeps the parts in place and is easily removed. Do what you like on yours. If 50 rds at the range is a big shooting session and you tighten everything everytime afterwards it's probably a non-issue. I expect mine to shoot at least 500 rds without attention other than cleaning the chambers afterwards.
bob2231
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Just a minor addition,for anyone who may be interested.I worked in Tool & Die for quite a few years and red Loctite was pretty common.Since soaking and cooking weren't possible the easiest way to loosen the locker was to spray the screw with engine starting fluid and let it work down into the threads.For gun parts,you'd want to be very careful about not getting the spray all over,and don't use too much.
Once the parts are disassembled the spray is also very good at cleaning the threads,especially the female since it's hard to get anything into those small holes to clean them.
A warning though.The parts we worked on,appearance didn't matter,and I don't know if the ether would have any effect on the finish.
Bob
Once the parts are disassembled the spray is also very good at cleaning the threads,especially the female since it's hard to get anything into those small holes to clean them.
A warning though.The parts we worked on,appearance didn't matter,and I don't know if the ether would have any effect on the finish.
Bob
Bullseye Smith
Member
Put the cylinder in the frezzer over night, then try to take it apart. Heat will make the parts get bigger and the cold will make them smaller.
Better yet, heat the outside part and chill the inside part (if possible) with something like Compound W Freeze Off. Works best on larger things because the expansion coefficient for most steels is only about 7 parts per million per degree Fahrenheit.
If the inside & outside parts are of the same steel, chilling both the same amount will see the hole shrink the same amount as the pin (or screw) shrinks. Sufficient chilling of both, however, might possibly make it easier for the threadlocker to fail by shearing.
My 2¢ worth.
Regards
scooter123
Member
Tom, for the steels used in most handguns it takes a minimum of 600 degrees to have any effect on the heat treat and a temperature this low will only effect a part that has been heat treated to a high hardness, probablly in excess of 60 Rc. My impression is the most firearms are only hardened to the mid 30's to mid 40's for stress bearing parts and to effect a temper this soft you have to get well above 900 degrees. Basically, about the only parts in a handgun or rifle that might be effected by a 600 degree exposure are the sear surfaces.
Bottomline, being conservative, you can heat handgun components to 450 degrees without any concern about changing the properties due to heat treating. However, for a part such as a barrel that was not properly tempered, or was machined using a pre-tempered blank, this much heat has a remote chance of causing the part to "warp" due to internal stresses being relieved. However, that risk is actually pretty remote and you'd probably have to "cook" that part for at least 48 hours to have any effect. In addition, simply shooting the gun can have the same effect because one method for stress relieving steels is by shot peening it because repeated sharp vibrations can have a similar effect on internal stresses as a long heat soak.
Bullseye Smith
Member
Saved me the trouble
I'm glad I saw this thread. I was going to ask this same question. On my 19-3 someone had tightened the rod with a pair of pliers and buggered up the end. I found a new rod at the gunshow and was wondering the best way to swap them out.I'm going to try the boards and vise method and see what happens. Thanks very much.
I'm glad I saw this thread. I was going to ask this same question. On my 19-3 someone had tightened the rod with a pair of pliers and buggered up the end. I found a new rod at the gunshow and was wondering the best way to swap them out.I'm going to try the boards and vise method and see what happens. Thanks very much.
Not sure what the grinning faces meant, but my thinking here is that with the service temperature range for Loctite Red 241 being -65°F to +300°F, the upper limit is 230°F away from a 70°F room temperature but the lower limit is only 135° away. Even though Freeze Off was only -55°F when I tested it with a bead probe, methinks the threadlocker may become brittle enough to fail before some gun part does.
And for those fearful of heating Ole Betsy to the 482°F that Loctite specifies for disassembly, perhaps chilling is an acceptable alternative.
Regards
