Search results

I have a Victory model SN#V92367 in 38 S&W , can anyone tell me the date it was made?

I have some of both and really like the Macgar. 20 and 24 bucks is not bad for new mags.

Try goggling hand stretching. You may find a video online and it will save you buying a new hand. You should only need a few thousands. All you need is a punch,hard surface and a hammer.

I do bluing with Dicropan "IM" from brownells and have had good results with it. I was thinking of oxynate 7 but it takes 4 tanks instead of 3 and you cant use it on doubles or anything with silver inlays without messing up something. It takes a little longer with Dicropan but the results look...

I'm going to pick some up tomorrow and try it.If nothing else its pistol powder and thats better than nothing.

I load the 5.7 and the only problem I have is collapsing the neck when resizing or seating the bullet. Other than that you have to have a small hole funnel so you dont scatter the powder trying to get it in the small short case. I wait till I have a bunch so I only have to do it every six...

Cash Price ??

Any good gunsmithing shop should be able to reblue and do a good job. Prep is secret to a good blue job.I like the slow rust blueing, it takes longer but it looks better.

Is it catching the cocking cam when you break it down? It would be best to have a gunsmith look at it even if you have to ship it. How old is it?

How much play is there between the barrel and bushing? Sounds like it a little loose.

I have a set of magnatips but I use my Grace set more than any other.

Have you checked to see if it locks up just before the hammer falls?

Look at the bottom of the flashhider and see if you dont see a pin. if it was done right it will be hard to see . What size is your barrel? if its less than 16 without the flashhider its pinned and you will have to grind some to get it out.

I installed the FSS kit in a customer's gun a few weeks back and it took the trigger pull from 7lbs down to 3 with a shorter reset and smoother pull. He loved it. No sure about the other one. I got my kit from Brownells.

I bet your existing one is pined or welded on. Look close on the bottom of the break and see if you dont see signs of a pin being covered over. If so you will have to grind or cut in to it to get the pin out. You may be lucky and it not be but dont bend your barrel trying to force it off.

My friend just aquired a 38 top break from his father and was wondering what date it was made. The sn# 299978, does anyone know anything about it?

I guess I'll throw my 686 away then because I streched the hand two weeks ago to speed it up a little.

First you need to check the timing to see if it locks up right before the hammer falls. If its good you can take a range rod and see how it ticks. You can strech the hand if you know what your doing but dont just assume the hand is short.you can wind up with a bigger problem.

Same here, started in 1980. Its been so long since I've bought factory loads I was shocked by the price.

I have the horandy dies and they say 300 Black out/Whisper so I assume they will work fine. I was wanting Lee but they only made one run and dont plan on making more.