HOW TO: Modifying S&W 10rd LONG Mags to 25rd

cdaniel76

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***This modification is only applicable to residents of states that allow 25rd magazines. You know where you live and what the rules are. Do this at your own risk/responsibility!***

I've seen many threads on here mentioning modifying the LONG 10rd'ers into 25rd'ers but haven't seen any good instructions on how to do it.

I just wanted to share my experience and hopefully it can be used as a guide for those who wish to make this modification.

First off, if you can find and order these mags, be sure to also order a set of the Raven Eye Custom loading assist buttons.

There's 3 differences between the factory 25rd and 10rd LONG mags. One, there is a metal pin that prohibits the follower from traveling further than 10 rounds. Two, the follower in the 10rd mag does not come with a load assist button, however the hole is in place to be able to install one. Three, the followers are different colors. Other than that, the mags are identical.

So in my research on how to do the modifications, I found three generally preferred methods.

The first is to estimate where the pin is in the mag and drill from the sides to push the pin out. This results in holes in your mags. You have to be precise on where you drill or you'll be drilling extra holes.

Second one is to remove the mag floor plate and spring and then, using a long flat head screwdriver and hammer, carefully tap the pin to bend it until it falls out. Only problem with this method is that it could "bend" the plastic out of place when bending the pin. This could result in deformation of the track in which the bullets and follower slide up and down in.

Last method is to "crack" the magazine open by breaking the seal along the seam where the two halves of of the mag are glued together. This is the method I chose. If done carefully, this way results in as little damage as possible done to the mag.

So what I did to help make this as easy as possible was to nuke the mags in the microwave for 30 seconds. This warmed the mag just enough to soften the glue and make it easier to separate the halves. WARNING!!!! Ensure that you place the mag so that it "stands up" along its back seam. The pin will become very hot inside the mag and, if the mag is laying on its side or standing on the front seam, can melt the plastic around it causing it to deform the bullet/follower track or actually melt completely through the side of the mag. Starting at the top of the mag use a sharp knife to pry open the mag along the BACK seam first. Slowly work your way down the back, carefully prying so to break the glued seam. Once at the bottom of the back side of the mag you will need to put the mag back into the microwave for 10-15 seconds to warm up the other side. Use something about the width of a marks-a-lot as a wedge to hold the back seam open and repeat the careful prying process on the front seam but this time start from the bottom and work your way up.

Once you have the mag split into two pieces you can now remove the metal pin. After removing the pin take the follower and slide it up and down the track. You will feel some "rough" spots. These spots seem to be made into the mag when casting it. Use some very fine grit sandpaper to smooth down those rough spots and any other spots you might have accidentally made in the mag when using the knife to pry it open.

Once finished sanding either blow the mag out or wipe it down with a damp cloth to remove the filings from sanding. You may have noticed that there's a "male" half and a "female" half. The female half has indentations where the male half has ribs that fit into it. Apply a thin bead of super glue to the entire seam area of the FEMALE side. Do not use too much glue or put glue on the male side. Too much glue can cause the plastic to melt and deform the bullet/follower track. Align the male side onto the female side and "snap" the halves back together. Use some rubber bands or some small wood-working clamps, if you have them, to hold the halves together tightly for at least 5 minutes.

Once the glue is set you can now reassemble the follower, spring and floor plate. When inserting the follower line its hole up with the larger hole at the bottom of the magazine. This is where you install the Raven Eye load assist button. Install the spring, ensuring it seats fully onto the base of the follower. Now compress the spring and install the spring plate and slide the floor plate back onto the mag.

You're done and now have a 25 round mag!
 
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OK. I stopped when i saw the word "microwave".
Use this method.
http://smith-wessonforum.com/smith-wesson-m-p-15-22/286854-conversion-10-25-round-mag-raveneyecustom-com.html.
Works like a charm.

I've seen that method. I chose not to use that one though because of what happens to the surrounding plastic when you hammer the pin out.

The plastic housing is supporting that pin and when you hit the pin hard enough to bend it you're also bending the plastic around it. Bend the plastic enough and you will be putting pressure on the bullet/follower track and that could result in the follower being inhibited in its travel up and down the mag.

I prefer my method because it also gave me the opportunity to sand down some of the imperfections in the casting that already drags on the follower as it is.

Any method that requires hitting something with the flathead of a screwdriver and a hammer just isn't right in my book. It may be faster, yes, but if you're not extremely careful you can do some serious damage to the mags.

The method I did only took me 10 minutes per mag and that's with the 5 minute glue drying time.
 
I'm not doubting that your method works, and I'm not gonna try it to prove you wrong or right. I just feel that you're over thinking it. Knocking the pin out is not gonna cause any issues with the inner workings of the mag.
 
I used the hammer and screwdriver method also. Worked great. BUT, if for some reason I screw the plastic up next time maybe I'll try the microwave method to open it up and smooth it out.
 
plus, I would not trust super glue to hold my mags together. That stuff has never seemed to be as "super" as it's cracked up to be for me.
 
Why search for other methods? The hammer/screwdriver method prevents any damage to the magazine. The wheel has already been invented.
 
I just hammered out my pins from two ten rounders. Worst problem was searching for the right size screwdriver. Seemed to work fine. When the pin bends, it releases from the place it is molded in. Seems to do minimal damage to the mag body.
 
I've done the hammer/screwdriver method 5 times now all without issue. I never heard of anyone damaging their mags this way.
 
I just used the hammer & screwdriver method on two 10rd long mags.
After removal of the pin I tilted the mags back and forth to test how well the follower moved in its groove.
The first mag was just fine.
There was a problem with the second mag.
The follower hung up at the point where the pin was removed.
Seems the screwdriver had made a slight scratch on the wall and a bit of plastic was raised and the follower was rubbing it enough to hinder its operation. So much so that it would not slide past that point without some help from me.
I simply used the screwdriver to smooth out that part until the follower slid smoothly in its groove.
I was using a mini digital endoscope to check it out but in my haste forget to hit record.
I would not say the hammer & screwdriver method will not cause any damage but I will say it is the easiest way to remove the pin.
 
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For drilling use 1/8" drill bit .2" from the inside of the outer/vertical rib. Start at a 30 degree angle as the pin is slightly under the horizontal ribs. Use a toothpick and force it in the center of he pin and pop it out. I used a awl.

I would of just hammer it out but all my long screw drill are too thick. Second, I can replace the pin and cover with something like JB Weld or black RTV if the rules here change.
 

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I have to laugh when I see a thread like this. I been away for a month cuz I moved to SC and I took one of my 10rd mags got my Hammer and my long screw driver and in 10 seconds a 25rounder today. These posts seem to come up all the time, When I posted my pics last year im sure I about 100th person to do it but now it has to be in the 1,000s, LOL anyways gotta love seeing people still doing the hard way!!!
 
As said before...thin shaft flat blade screwdriver on pin...tap screwdriver with hammer. bamb..shake out pin..10 maybe 15 seconds if you count putting the hammer and screwdriver away..
 
Drills?

Microwaves?

Sandpaper?

Glue?


Just knock the damn pin out with a hammer and screwdriver.

Takes about 30 seconds!

Exactly. I would definitely not recommend microwaving a magazine. The chance of either deforming the alignment or weakening the factory glue bonds is too great.

This process simply couldn't be easier with failure a very remote possibility:
1) Removing the base plate and spring
2) Place mag with mag lips down on a folded towel on a hard surface
3) Take a skinny flathead screwdriver and place it against the restrictor pin
4) Firmly but gently hammer the end of the screwdriver.
5) 3 short wacks will easily knock it out.

Anything more than this is making a very simple job far more complex than it needs to be.
 
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:mad: I am very upset with a couple of new S&W 10rd long mags I received. Within 5 minutes of opening up the shipping package, the cheap aluminum restrictor pins fell out of the mags!

Now I can load way more than 10 rounds in these darn things! :mad: This is unacceptable quality!

I'll be sending these back for replacements as soon as hell freezes over. :rolleyes:
 
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