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Which Gun Oil (Lubricant) Do You Utilize On Semi-Autos?
- Thread starter MrChubbs
- Start date
remat457
Member
Ditto, I have used it on all of my semi-auto for over 20 years. I will continue to unless I encounter a problem. Now, as a cleaner, sometimes I do need something a little stronger and there is something special about the smell of Hoppes #9 nitro powder solvent
stang1911
Member
Ditto, I have used it on all of my semi-auto for over 20 years. I will continue to unless I encounter a problem. Now, as a cleaner, sometimes I do need something a little stronger and there is something special about the smell of Hoppes #9 nitro powder solvent
SIMPLE FORMULA, IT'S KEROSENE!
New to the Forum & I use FrogLube
My company has been selling FrogLube since last July. I use it on my 1978 vintage 6" Model 29, 1960's Model 41 and 442, as well as my 1911, XDm, ARs, shotguns and rifles.
I just cleaned my AR after 5 months and 1700 rounds with bare hands and a paper towel. Nothing sticks to FrogLube and it smells good, too.
My company has been selling FrogLube since last July. I use it on my 1978 vintage 6" Model 29, 1960's Model 41 and 442, as well as my 1911, XDm, ARs, shotguns and rifles.
I just cleaned my AR after 5 months and 1700 rounds with bare hands and a paper towel. Nothing sticks to FrogLube and it smells good, too.
Martygrant
Member
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Gunzilla replaced other CLP's, Slip 2000 EWL oil, Slide Glide light grease, (sometimes TW25B), once in a long while Sweet's 7.62 Solvent or Iosso Bore Paste for copper. Hoppes just 'cause.
Hawaiianbro40
Member
hmm...so what lube oil brand should you stay away from? I see a whole lot of types of brands let alone car oil as well.
Hobie1
Member
Vaseline.....however, it has gotten me in and out of some tight spots....
I use a 60% moly paste for moving parts. I don't shoot in a gritty enviroment so I don't know how things would hold up under adverse situations.
Hobie
PhilOhio
Member
Just about all the above suggestions are great. I used to use 3-in-one oil for everything. But in recent years, I'm with ET. I went modern. I use Rem Oil because the spray can makes it easy, it has the right "cling" to gun metal and does not run off, it's cheap, and is available everywhere. Doesn't take much, especially localizing application with the little red tube that comes with it.
The bolt of my registered 1928 Thompson is finicky about lube. It has to be just so, and stable at high and low temp, or the thing won't run right. Squirrels stop treating you with respect. A good slopping of Rem Oil wipes the smirks off those hairy little faces. On the bolt, I mean.
The bolt of my registered 1928 Thompson is finicky about lube. It has to be just so, and stable at high and low temp, or the thing won't run right. Squirrels stop treating you with respect. A good slopping of Rem Oil wipes the smirks off those hairy little faces. On the bolt, I mean.
TSQUARED
Member
The 1911's i use in competition like to run wet. Any good oil on the slide-frame surfaces will do. For the plastic framed pistol with small frame rails I prefer a very tine dab of teflon grease.
rodeo kid
Member
I have used breakfree clp for 30 years and been happy with it. Last year I started using Royal Purple gun oil for lubing after cleaning with breakfree. It seems to be a little slicker, I can retract the slides on my autos easier after switching to it. God Bless.
getoff
Member
grease on slide, shooters choice, and everything else gets eezeox. can and spray. looks wet, but dry to touch.
I have used Mil-Comm TW 25B Extreme Performance Synthetic Oil for a number of years and love it. Comes in a pump 2oz. bottle or a creammy tube. Same oil-different textures. (Mil-Comm Products - TW-25B synthetic lubricant protectant grease or oil for firearms, fishing reels, locks and hardware.). 1-800-743-4518 if interested. Also, from time to time, use some S&W Advanced Gun Oil.
Both are a little pricy but Florida presents some special challanges on weapons storage. I would rather pay now than later !
Both are a little pricy but Florida presents some special challanges on weapons storage. I would rather pay now than later !
- Joined
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Mil-Comm TW 25B is worth every penny! The 2oz syringe will last a very long time depending on how many firearms you have and if you clean religiously.
BigBadAllis
Member
Mobil 1 for me.
EvilBetty
Member
Any comments on Slide Glide?
Frank237
Absent Comrade
I've always been suspicious of the SUPER LUBES...
I've done very well with CLP...then again I have gallons of it left from my Military days.
When I did the SIG Armorers school they pushed the TW25B or whatever the acronym...a light, light colored grease. WORKED great on their autos and didn't seeem to migrate out like CLP seemed to do after awhile.
Recently tried some of the Wilson Combat Ultima Lube II that I got with my 1911. Works great on my Wilson....seems to really stay put on the slide rails. Looks suspiciously EXACTLY like chainsaw bar lube.
I have also used the SLIP2000 on AR's and AK's. I will add though that the SLIP2K DOES absolutely seem too stay put on bolt carriers, etc a bit better than CLP.
That said...I have always been suspect of the supper lubes. And I know the SLIP 2000 falls into that category.
I always felt that 90% of them from SLIP, to MilTec were all coming from basically the same VAT. In of some dark, dank warehouse in northern New Jersey manned by illegal immigrants.
To further muddy the waters...all of you should check out this link.
GrantCunningham.com - Library
After getting some of the Lubri-Plate light grease...it looks exactly like TW25B...Hmmmmm.
A very interesting read.
FN in MT
I've done very well with CLP...then again I have gallons of it left from my Military days.
When I did the SIG Armorers school they pushed the TW25B or whatever the acronym...a light, light colored grease. WORKED great on their autos and didn't seeem to migrate out like CLP seemed to do after awhile.
Recently tried some of the Wilson Combat Ultima Lube II that I got with my 1911. Works great on my Wilson....seems to really stay put on the slide rails. Looks suspiciously EXACTLY like chainsaw bar lube.
I have also used the SLIP2000 on AR's and AK's. I will add though that the SLIP2K DOES absolutely seem too stay put on bolt carriers, etc a bit better than CLP.
That said...I have always been suspect of the supper lubes. And I know the SLIP 2000 falls into that category.
I always felt that 90% of them from SLIP, to MilTec were all coming from basically the same VAT. In of some dark, dank warehouse in northern New Jersey manned by illegal immigrants.
To further muddy the waters...all of you should check out this link.
GrantCunningham.com - Library
After getting some of the Lubri-Plate light grease...it looks exactly like TW25B...Hmmmmm.
A very interesting read.
FN in MT
Last edited:
HCL3
Member
Break Free CLP and Tri-Flow in a bottle
I use Break Free CLP after cleaning as a last patch or two through the chamber(s) and barrel then wipe down the exterior lightly with CLP, blued in particular, looks great, decent protection from moisture. Tri-Flow in the little bottle with the applicator on Slides and frame rails, slick as butter, well, probably a lot slicker, it's a real good Teflon containing clear light oil. Great stuff. Have given a couple bottles away to friends and won a convert or two...
I use Break Free CLP after cleaning as a last patch or two through the chamber(s) and barrel then wipe down the exterior lightly with CLP, blued in particular, looks great, decent protection from moisture. Tri-Flow in the little bottle with the applicator on Slides and frame rails, slick as butter, well, probably a lot slicker, it's a real good Teflon containing clear light oil. Great stuff. Have given a couple bottles away to friends and won a convert or two...
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