Aftermarket Shield sights replacement installation?
- Thread starter strat62
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oink
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I'm going to say to take it to a gunsmith. I've changed sights before on other guns with no real issues but I couldn't get the sight on my shield9 v1 to move with a sight pusher or drift. It's in there stupid tight.
Lock n' Load
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The LGS gunsmith installed the TruGlo Tritium Pro night sights that I purchased there on both of my M&P's for free and did a great job. Unless you have experience and the proper tools, let a pro do it.
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Rastoff
US Veteran
If you're at least a little handy with simple tools, you can do it yourself. Definitely not a beginner project, but if you can use a hammer, drift punch and an Alen wrench, you can do it.
I have a sight pusher which is far easier, but I have installed many sights with just a hammer and a drift punch.
Beware of people who call themselves gun smiths. Check their references and talk to people who've had work done by them before you hand over your pistol.
Jeppo
SWCA Member
I used a pusher on my Shield 1.0. It was crazy the amount of torque required even after applying Kroil. When the sight finally moved, it made a snap so loud that my wife came running to see what had happen to me. I was sure I’d broken the slide in half. 
When the sight finally moved, it made a snap so loud that my wife came running to see what had happen to me. I was sure I’d broken the slide in half.
I had exactly the same experience, except it was daughter that gave me the "ooph, that sounds bad" statement. Aside from that, it went well using sight pusher.
Ziggy2525
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I've replaced sights on three Shield 1.0's.
The front sight will come out with a pusher or taping out with a drift (you need to protect against damage from the drift). The base on the front sight is thin. It's easy to do some cosmetic damage to them.
Like previous posters have said, the rear is really tight. First time through, I had better luck hammering them out with a drift over a pusher. Tap the rear out from left to right and install it from right to left (looking from the rear). Be careful as you start coming off the right side. The striker block spring is under the sight and can go flying. IIRC, Apex tactical has a video removing the rear sight.
The front sight will come out with a pusher or taping out with a drift (you need to protect against damage from the drift). The base on the front sight is thin. It's easy to do some cosmetic damage to them.
Like previous posters have said, the rear is really tight. First time through, I had better luck hammering them out with a drift over a pusher. Tap the rear out from left to right and install it from right to left (looking from the rear). Be careful as you start coming off the right side. The striker block spring is under the sight and can go flying. IIRC, Apex tactical has a video removing the rear sight.
I had no problem with mine. I installed Dawson sights and they include an aluminum drift with your sight order. I placed my slide in a padded vise and followed their instructions to the letter. Their sights are made a little over sized but I used a set of fine files from Harbor Freight to dress them for a perfect fit.
Marshal Tom
Member
I replaced the sights on my Shield 1.0 and then did Apex triggers on both my Shield and my new M&P 2.0 compact. I ended taking both to a local gunsmith to do the sight removal and re-install because I didn't want to risk marking the slides.
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I have installed a lot of sights by the Shields I have worked on had the tightest sight channels of anything I have ever worked on. A vice and a “good” sight pusher was needed.
ultratec00
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I have MGW tools for standard M&P and Shield. Neither worked for the Shield 45 and I ended up using my Wheeler tool. Fairly sure the Wheeler tool would work for all of them. Best advice, get the right tool for the job. The Wheeler tool can be had for a decent price and works on a wide variety of semi's.
I use my sight tools regularly not only to install new sights, but when sighting in. Hardest was my Shield 9mm. It was very tight. Typical sight swap with the right tool will take about 20 minutes.
I use my sight tools regularly not only to install new sights, but when sighting in. Hardest was my Shield 9mm. It was very tight. Typical sight swap with the right tool will take about 20 minutes.
Justamessenger
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Lots of information, but here are a few truths.
1. If you are only changing sights on one gun, buy the sights where they are installed for free.
2. The original, non-tritium sights may be removed by drifting them out.
3. If your new sights have tritium vials, use only a sight pusher, so you don’t ruin the glow vial- that they can be broken from impact is why these sights are not returnable.
1. If you are only changing sights on one gun, buy the sights where they are installed for free.
2. The original, non-tritium sights may be removed by drifting them out.
3. If your new sights have tritium vials, use only a sight pusher, so you don’t ruin the glow vial- that they can be broken from impact is why these sights are not returnable.
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Pretty much the case. But you do need a place to do the work, and a tiny bit of mechanical skill, and common sense.
I think the best description is the front/rear drift adjustable sights on the Smith's that have come home with me, all needed a tweak R/L to work with my sight picture. None of the sights would ever have rattled loose, or fallen out. They are IN THERE GOOD.
I make my own brass drifts, to get the size so they stay in alignment with the sight, and I routed a couple pieces of 2X6 to set my Bodyguards and Shields in, (one side right/other side left), and cut a thin piece of retired pocket book leather in the bottom. That keeps the gun in position, and won't mark the finish. Then tap away with a light hammer and brass drift. About half the time the sight just will not move. Then I put a couple drops of penetrating oil, 3-in-one, on the sight dove tail and let it sit. Might take a couple applications and a few more taps, but sooner or later the sight will drift.
If pounding on your toy just sounds bad, take it to a gunsmith and tell him where the gun is shooting, and the range you are shooting at.
dodgecharger
Member
I recall there was a person on this forum selling sight pushers that he makes. Very well built and protects the slide.
cbore
Member
I must be the exception. I soaked my 1.0 front sight over night with Kroil. Next day taped it lose with brass punch. Dressed bottom of new Hi- Viz sight with emery cloth and installed. I was surprised after hearing others problems.
Sight installation
Fellows. Being that the Shield has as tight of sights (in the dovetail) as it does ...why not either open up the dovetail a bit OR reduce the size of the sight dovetail prior to installing a new sight to allow easier sight movement when sighting in the gun?
Fellows. Being that the Shield has as tight of sights (in the dovetail) as it does ...why not either open up the dovetail a bit OR reduce the size of the sight dovetail prior to installing a new sight to allow easier sight movement when sighting in the gun?
hyena
Member
I bought a fiberoptic front sight for my .45 Shield at a gun range, and their gunsmith installed it for free. It was only maybe $10 more than the cheapest I could find it on line. He used a hammer and drift. Then fine tuned it twice after I test fired it. Money well spent.
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Yes, reduce the dovetail on the sight to make go in easier than the factory ones were to get out.
Never mess with the dovetail on the slide though, that is the far more expensive part.
