M&P15 Castle Nut Removal

gsxunv04 · #1 02-25-2011, 09:17 PM

I hear the regular spanner wrenches wont fit on the M&P15's castle nut. Any tips on removing the castle nut?

Jay5oh · #2 02-25-2011, 10:30 PM

I used this one: CAR stock wrench
Rock River Arms: Mag Catch Tool / Sight Tool / Stock Wrench / Bolt Tool

gsxunv04 · #3 02-25-2011, 10:59 PM

Any problems with its teeth bending? I was reading the reviews for this on Brownells and I recall people saying it DID NOT work on the M&P15...and that the teeth bend/rounded off.

Dragon88 · #4 02-25-2011, 11:11 PM

Is your castle nut staked?

gsxunv04 · #5 02-25-2011, 11:12 PM

It's for a friend. Yes it is staked.

Eureka40 · #6 02-25-2011, 11:33 PM

Mine was staked and I didn't see that it was. Look carefully cause it is a bear to get off.

Jay5oh · #7 02-26-2011, 12:03 AM

Mine was staked. No, I did not have any trouble with it or the wrench. It's been used on 3-4 stock changes....

Dragon88 · #8 02-26-2011, 12:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gsxunv04

No, nor loctited. I have never removed it. It is out-of-box "factory condition"

Double check on that. Most quality manufacturers stake the castle nut, it is a check mark on "the chart", and for a good reason. Unfortunately if the castle nut is staked you will need to apply a lot of force to turn past it, or dremel the staking off then remove it. Either may destroy the castle nut and/or receiver plate, but they are very inexpensive items to replace.

Foxtrot · #9 02-26-2011, 10:18 AM

Standard armorers wrench works here. Do not force, use a dremel to get rid of the staking then remove and do not re-use. Replace the nut with a new one, stake if possible but you will most likely find out at some point that you will need to stake it.

gsxunv04 · #10 02-28-2011, 01:48 PM

Anyone got any other options for a sinlge point sling mount?

Maximumbob54 · #11 02-28-2011, 02:06 PM

Just don't use the stamped sheet metal single tooth wrenches. They are a rip off. I wish to heck someone would just make a decent flat sided nut replacment for the poorly designed clastle nut. All the special tool parts should be redone.

Slats · #12 02-28-2011, 03:06 PM

Quite a wide variety HERE, some are "Out of Stock"

.

gsxunv04 · #13 02-28-2011, 06:08 PM

So you all said removing it with the factory staking is do-able?

Spydered · #14 02-28-2011, 06:45 PM

You might want to check out a Daniel Defense QD sling mount, no need to mess with the stake, just clamp it on...have it on my MP15 and love it.. Hope this helps..

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gsxunv04 · #15 02-28-2011, 07:10 PM

Where do you have it mounted(rail)?

Dragon88 · #16 02-28-2011, 07:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gsxunv04

Thanks, I guess I will just stick with using the ASAP and get a new castle nut. So you all said removing it with the factory staking is do-able?

Yes, as mentioned previously you dremel the staking off to remove it.

Another option is a sling adapter that clamps onto the extension tube just behind the castle nut.

akviper · #17 03-02-2011, 07:37 PM

If it's not too late you might also consider the Noveske QD endplate. It allows the use of the Magpul sling or any other two or single point sling and allows the stock to fully collapse.

Deaj · #18 03-04-2011, 02:47 AM

I like the Tango Down PR-4 for a QD sling mount behind the receiver. The PR-4 requires no modification. It clamps around the castle nut and buffer tube and provides three QD sockets - one rear facing and one on each side.

Two potential downsides (depending on personal preferences): 1. The sockets do not provide anti-rotation detents, and 2. You cannot collapse stock to the shortest position lock as the PR-4 extends beyond the castle nut a bit.

On the plus side it's very lightweight at 2.4 ounces. Also - once it's installed it's going nowhere! It mounts up rock solid - may as well be a part of the lower receiver as rigid as it is once installed. I did some research before going with the PR-4 and those who have used them on issued service/duty rifles provided very favorable feedback. The PR-4 has no sharp corners/edges and will not catch or snag on anything. It has a seamless / integrated appearance following the lines and curvature of the receiver and castle nut.

I have a PR-4 mounted to my M&P15T (pictured here):

There are plenty of close up pics available through Tango Down dealers and via Google search. Definitely worth consideration!

Dragon88 · #19 03-04-2011, 08:58 AM

That Tango Down product is the one I was thinking of. It's not a perfect solution but a lot better than others out there. And you can take it off easily if you don't need it or want it on. The ASAP plate isn't as easily installed or removed, and the little ring that rattles around on it when not in use is ANNOYING!

Foxtrot · #20 03-04-2011, 09:00 AM

Thats what duct tape (or if your a purist - 100 mile/hour tape) is for Dragon

Dragon88 · #21 03-04-2011, 09:14 AM

Haha yeah that would probably be a big improvement. I didn't keep mine on long enough to think of tape.

Spydered · #22 03-05-2011, 02:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gsxunv04

Where do you have it mounted(rail)?

You just clamp it on the buffer tube behind the castle nut...

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Murphy28 · #23 03-26-2011, 11:39 PM

I use this and it works pretty good.
GG&G Agency Rear Sling Mount Adapter Ambidextrous Loop AR-15 Carbine Aluminum Matte - MidwayUSA

Count · #24 04-19-2011, 10:28 AM

I used a cheap TAPCO Enhanced Stock Wrench that cost under $10.

Bought it off of amazon.
Amazon.com: TAPCO Enhanced Stock Wrench .223/: Sports & Outdoors

I taped up the surrounding area with electrical tape (in case of slippage

)and once i got the wrench on I grabbed the rifle with both hands and rotated (spun) it so that the wrench end would hit my wooden counter. About 3 or four light hits I was able to easily remove the castle nut. No I don't have a vise so I made do