Sport II Hammer and trigger

Scotiapilot · Jul 5, 2017

For a trigger and hammer assembly there is nothing wrong with the SPort II product.

HOWEVER

it appears to be aMIM product and it is NOT MIL SPEC

It also has casting lines that are vertical on the hammer and it will scratch the BCG on the underside. Ill post pics later.

You should look at your BCG and hammer. Run you nail across the hammer face.

For 25.00 it is well worth buying a true milspec trigger group and replacing. Itw ould also be a great time to polish the faces of the new TG prior to installing.

EVEN polishing the hammer face, all the HIGH end trigger companies do it and its a simple job.

cyphertext · Jul 5, 2017

Why would you replace the stock trigger for what could be a worse trigger in a true mil-spec trigger? What is to be gained by that?

I see no reason to swap it because of what equates to wear marks on the BCG.

Ray1970 · Jul 5, 2017

Be careful how much polishing you do on the replacement parts as they are cast parts and only surface hardened.

hdrolling · Jul 5, 2017

I hated the stock sport II trigger, but being a budget rifle i couldn't see using an expensive trigger with it. I had a couple extra BCM triggers sitting on the shelf so I threw one in, much smoother feel and a crisper break.

Ricrock · Jul 5, 2017

In my Sport II, I have an ALG ACT. Love it! And is very reasonable.

Tinhack · Jul 5, 2017

My hammer had no such casting marks. The trigger was a little steppy though so I did some polishing. Smooth as silk now with 4.5 pound pull and snappy break. No extra parts needed.

agksimon · Jul 5, 2017

Tinhack said:
My hammer had no such casting marks. The trigger was a little steppy though so I did some polishing. Smooth as silk now with 4.5 pound pull and snappy break. No extra parts needed.

I did the same thing as you, plus installed a JS spring kit, using the red spring, for hard primers. A dab of aluminum anti-seize on the end of a toothpick, put on the hammer contact surface and the trigger breaks at a very smooth and crisp 4.5 pounds.

When polishing, you take off less than .001, so no worry of removing the case hardening.

Scotiapilot · Jul 6, 2017

100% better, I polished the mil-spec perfectly. Including hammer face etc. 2000 grit paper, buffing wheel. Amazing the casting imperfections you can see when you do that.
Trigger is excellent. Certainly lighter to the pull and much more crisp.
Well worth the $ and time spent.

jagular · Jul 6, 2017

hdrolling said:
I hated the stock sport II trigger, but being a budget rifle i couldn't see using an expensive trigger with it. I had a couple extra BCM triggers sitting on the shelf so I threw one in, much smoother feel and a crisper break.

This. It's a budget rifle and S&W doesn't advertise it as milspec. Mine has run fine throughout the 4,000 I've put through it in a few years time and I've noticed no unusual wear patterns on the bolt. In short, it's held up and doing what it's supposed to do. That said, I have another designated rifle that I use for self defense. Now, if you just want to upgrade the trigger for whatever reason please do so (for weight or piece of mind). Don't, however, assume that a mim part is < a forged for this specific function (trigger). Show me some hard proof it is inferior vs a milspec tigger.

vonn · Jul 6, 2017

Many modern car and truck engines use powdered metal connecting rods no problems. Hammers and triggers in an AR should be an easy engineering exercise. Today's technology isn't always just about cheap,many times it's about better. You can usually improve on a given part if cost is not considered but the stock part is usually more than sufficient to get the job done. I have had many military surplus rifles over the years and AR triggers compare very well to any of them.

Disabled1 · Jul 6, 2017

I left my Sport I ALL factory.
But, in my AR-556, I installed a new PSA BCG, and an AR STONER trigger with a JP ENTERPRISE 3.5 lb. spring kit. Seriously, it went from an 8.50-8.75 lb. pull to just under 4.75 lb. pull!

WVSig · Jul 6, 2017

vonn said:
Many modern car and truck engines use powdered metal connecting rods no problems. Hammers and triggers in an AR should be an easy engineering exercise. Today's technology isn't always just about cheap,many times it's about better. You can usually improve on a given part if cost is not considered but the stock part is usually more than sufficient to get the job done. I have had many military surplus rifles over the years and AR triggers compare very well to any of them.

MIM is not my preferred method of parts manufacturing but if done properly it works. My issue with MIM is not that it cannot be done well it is that it is done because the manufacturer is engaged in a race to the bottom in terms of MSRP and street price and MIM is the fastest way to get there. 99% of the time gun manufacturers are not using it to make the product better they are using it to make the product cheaper and easier to produce. The other thing to note it that in general if a MIM part is going to fail it fails early in its life.

Life is too short and ammo is too expensive to shoot a poor or even middling trigger IMHO. This does not mean that the stock Sport II trigger is bad but it has been my experience that mass market stock triggers are not consistent. Some are great some not so much. If I get one in the not so great category they get swapped out with something like a LaRue MBT-2S or a Geissele SSA. YMMV

Micah Johnson · Jul 6, 2017

I purchased an ALG ACT last Saturday during their 4th of July sale for $55.20 from all I've heard it's a solid piece, guess I'll see for myself in a week or so. The stock trigger seems a little mushy to me compared to the FN made A2 I carried while in the Army Reserve

hdwhit · Jul 7, 2017

Scotiapilot wrote:
HOWEVER

it appears to be a MIM product and it is NOT MIL SPEC

It also has casting lines that are vertical on the hammer and it will scratch the BCG on the underside. Ill post pics later.

You should look at your BCG and hammer. Run you nail across the hammer face.

So what?

The Sport II is not a mil-spec rifle and S&W doesn't market it as being a mil-spec rifle, so I don't see any point in trying to make it into one.

Scotiapilot · Jul 7, 2017

hdwhit said:
So what?

The Sport II is not a mil-spec rifle and S&W doesn't market it as being a mil-spec rifle, so I don't see any point in trying to make it into one.

Good for you. Me either. That's why I just changed the trigger to mil spec and improved on the mil spec.

cyphertext · Jul 7, 2017

Scotiapilot said:
Good for you. Me either. That's why I just changed the trigger to mil spec and improved on the mil spec.

But again, what did you gain from changing the trigger from stock to "mil-spec"? You could have saved yourself $25 and performed the same polishing on the stock trigger.

I understand swapping the stock trigger with a known better trigger, but not a run of the mill, mil-spec trigger.

Scotiapilot · Jul 7, 2017

cyphertext said:
But again, what did you gain from changing the trigger from stock to "mil-spec"? You could have saved yourself $25 and performed the same polishing on the stock trigger.

I understand swapping the stock trigger with a known better trigger, but not a run of the mill, mil-spec trigger.

Familiarity of the mil spec, trust in mil spec tolerance and finish.
The SW trigger is pretty unique in that the it actually has a sort of built in step that after about 500 rounds was already rounded. I think the rounding of that step is an issue The reset hook on the hammer is longer because of the design. The mil spec piece is something I am very used to. I can count on it in 3 gun matches production class.

Ill post pics as soon as I can to show you. I need to find a hosting sight

Scotiapilot · Jul 7, 2017

\

hdrolling · Jul 7, 2017

Scotiapilot said:
Ill post pics as soon as I can to show you. I need to find a hosting sight

Flickr is what I had to start using, here is the factory sport II trigger that I pulled and the BCM trigger (silver) that I replaced it with.

IMG_8369 by hd_rolling, on Flickr

Scotiapilot · Jul 7, 2017

If you notice the rolled edges on the factory SW piece you can see its made oddly. The seer catch on the trigger or the seer shelf is barely making contact.
The rounded edges causes that mushy feel and inconsistent feel.

SO how much more proof is needed to show the cruddy ness of the sw trigger. The MIM type casting wearing out as can be seen by the photos, How a mil spec trigger will top it in feel, fit and finish.

I am not sure how to take the nay sayers here as the proof is indisputable along with pics etc. Nevermind the experience in handling this and others.

Yes mil spec is better by a long shot.
MIM cast parts are of lesser quality. (or whatever sw used on these trigger sets)

Sport II Hammer and trigger

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