I would greatly appreciate it if people with the Polymer SD Enhanced Action Trigger installed, PLEASE snap some pics of your install including the sear block and your trigger arm where they connect.

Kinda like these please. I am having an issue with not enough over travel to engage firing and I want to see if something is different with my model since it was made this year. I have tried 2 different AET triggers and BOTH have the same issue. When I put the stock trigger back in, no issues. I am sure Scott will be more than happy to resolve the issue BUT I would like to see if I can get something done before Monday since I am going to the range tomorrow and would like to try the new trigger out!

Thanks for the help!

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I don't have the trigger but try this and see if it releases the sear.

Pull up on the back of the slide while pulling the trigger.

3

That does not work. I tried it after watching the vids. What DOES work is when holding the trigger depressed and pressing on the side of the lower where the trigger bar would be located (right where it says capable), it will release the sear..

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Yeah that makes sense because that makes the sear move farther back.

Your probably going to have to file some of the back of the trigger
away where it hits the frame.

That's if there is enough plastic to file away.

3

I will leave all of that up to Apex. I do not want to do any modification to a perfectly new trigger even though I have 2 of them here. I will just have the experts at Apex figure it out.

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Ok, The back of the trigger is hitting the frame right ?

That's the only thing I can think of that won't make the sear move farther back while pulling trigger of course.

3

I do not think so. I can reinstall and check. I know the stock one does.

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That's up to you ?

I hate removing the trigger half the time.

I'm going to bed now.

Good Luck, 3

I am already done. I have been doing this soo many times I can do it with my eyes closed! LOL.. Uploading now

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Here is where it is hitting.

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Yeah that's what your probably going to have to trim away.

I know the M&P guns need adjusting by that loop thing they bend.

I can't see it fitting every gun the same way, the tolerances are not
that specific or exact.

Nice pics. by the way.

3

I will wait to hear from Scott to see what he says to do but I am pretty sure that is the problem now that I see it. I was looking at all of the internals. Never thought to "think outside the box"! LOL

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That's why I love these forums, some people already ran into that problem already or have more insight on certain stuff.

That was a super quick trigger change.

Was going to go to bed but the Dobes wanted outside, I went out with them and now I'm awake again.

Post an update as to what Scott say's about it.

3

Yea, I have been taking it apart for days now to get myself familiar with it. I can completely strip it in about 2 min including ALL springs and parts that are removable.. LOL. I even took a couple pieces of 2"x2" of wood and screwed them together lengthwise and drilled a few holes in it so I have something "soft" to rest the gun on while hammering out pins. I REALLY want that armorers block that Apex sells but they said " Just to be clear, the armorer's block isn't designed to work with the SD, it can help but its no where near as well set up for the SD as it is for the M&P".

I am sure Scott would want me to send it in. When we spoke on the phone about the first trigger I bought not working and he stated he was sending out a replacement and IF that one does not work he would like for me to send the .40 in so he can look at it and have it in his hands so they can diagnose it and make revisions if needed to their product.

I just don't like being without my HG since it is the only one I have and I have only had it for a couple weeks now..lol.. Not to mention we are going to the in-laws next weekend and pop-in-law wants to see it.. lol..

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I know what you mean about being without your gun.

You have two triggers grind ( dremel ) file, sand, whatever
some of the back of 1 of the triggers till it works.

If ya screw it up somehow, I'll buy it off ya.

3

I am confident enough that it will work after I do the work, but on the other hand, if I send it in to Apex, they may do some other work to the gun that will improve it. LOL

Honestly, 3 min with a needle file would probably do the job.

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Ok let us know how you make out, now I'm going to bed.

Thanks, 3

I took it upon myself to make it work considering I bought it to be a drop in replacement. It took a little bit of filing with a needle file and eventually got it to fire. I removed a small amount, replace and tested. If it did not work I did it again till I got it to fire and then I filed it a bit more just to make sure it will fire every time the trigger was pulled. The trigger feel does feel nice BUT it still seems a bit on the hard side even with a spring kit installed (Non Apex).

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Here are some shots of my modified to fit AET trigger on my SD40VE. I MAY still send it to APEX if Scott is willing to look at it. IF you have to do this, make sure you keep the curve of the trigger landing that rests against the frame or you will have a gap and will not fit properly.

This is the area you will have to LIGHTLY file


You HAVE to keep the slight curve of the landing so it fits the frame nicely!


Take a rubber band or something to depress the safety so you do NOT file it!! It should look like this before filing!!


Finished with filing


Same curves, just a tad shaved off for just the right amount of over travel for proper function.


Fits like a glove!

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I'm glad it worked out for you.

Maybe they all should be oversized and require fitting to each gun.

Nice write up and pics. as always.

3

Looks like i may have a new project in the future for my SD40, one of my few complaints about the weapon is the trigger being a stiffer pull than i like.

You may get lucky and not need any work done to have trigger work after install. Good luck!

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Go for it and don't worry about it.

I could be wrong but I don't think I've heard of anyone else having an issue with the install. I know mine went in without a hitch and works perfectly.

The trigger combined with the Apex spring set is now AWESOME!

I have their spring kit in my SD9VE, and put the trigger in today, at first, it wouldnt fire at all. So I followed this and shaved what seems like a lot off. Now it will fire when I pull the trigger fast, and only sometimes when I pull it slowly. Sometimes, I can pull it slow and it wont fire at all, and sometimes there's a half second to a full second delay with the trigger all the way back and me squeezing it before it fires.

Any ideas or do I need to just keep filing on the trigger?

Better to start your own thread (as you did) then thread mine and thread jack another...
I gave my thoughts on your other thread.

jmccracken88,
I have the exact same problem as you are having with the new installed trigger. I have removed just a little and I am hesitant to remove more before I have talked with someone Apex. My trigger feels spongy. Fires almost always with my left hand and much less often with my right. I wish someone from Apex would address this issue with more clarity... especially if they are still selling it as a drop-in part. I will re-post after hearing from them. I have had no problems with any of their previous products and am thinking it is the gun (or me).

There are variables, small ones, in the casting and molds of the SD line of guns. Some work drop in, some need some filing.

It's 10 minutes worth of work.
Here's what I'll tell you, use the punch to hold the sear block in instead of hammering in the roll pin in and out.
File until it fires every single time.
Then file it just a hair more.

Dajogejr,
That is a good idea. I did not feel I could see the surface needing filing well unless I removed the trigger. Maybe I would have done just as good a job... I did not try your method (wished I had). A lot quicker to do it your way. I did get a lot of practice in in taking apart the gun!

I ended up taking some more off the surface and now have it firing every time. I could maybe use some more off. I want to go shoot it & see what it does first. I have it fitting very well.

Guys, check out this post I made about these issues, it may help...

Apex spring kit and trigger install tips

I did the install of the trigger spring kit and polymer trigger. I must say it does feel a lot more comfortable with about 2 lbs lighter from factory. Is there any way to make it smoother though? It still feels kinda spongy like plastic rubbing together.

I spent about 4 hours trimming the back of the trigger. I wound up shaving off 3/16, removed the trigger assembly 18-20 times. Also, it takes a while to learn how to disassemble the weapon when the trigger won't release the striker.

Did you smooth and then grease the trigger bar where it rubs the inside of the frame?

Hi All, I

New to this Form , Have Bought Myself the SD9VE, Like Most and feel the Trigger is .......Well, Needs improvement, First off I'm a Certified GM tech and Not a Gunsmith But Have Been In the Automotive Business for over 40 years, I Have several Firearms and Most will get the same Treatment That I perform on them , The SD9 Model suffers from Casting Slags Mostly in the striker system , if you remove the side and work the striker by hand, you will feel the crunchiness of the striker, The trick is to remove the binding , you remove the striker assembly ( if your are the kind of Guy that will stab yourself with a screwdriver then This is not for you, ) You will have to remove the striker cover off of slide , Tools Needed , Small Jewelers set of screw drivers, , 3 punch set, small set, assorted , Finishing sandpaper , 400,600,1000,2000 if available 1000 should do the trick, 400 and 600 to clean surface's,

Insert small Tip of Flat tipped to remove striker cover , it will slide down , May have to Move Bushing forward, , Just a little,

Remove spring , watch out for small collets Don't lose them , remove plastic slide bushing that The striker is in, Note you will see two or black lines inside of Bushing assembly, Put off to side for later, we'll get back to that , Take a look at the striker, On the end which goes into the Bushing , Run Your finger tip along the edges , you will feel Machining or stamping Marks, The trick to remove those edges , or really just clean them up, so it does not binding the bushing , only remove enough so you do not feel the burrs anymore, It does not take much, polish strike pin assembly with 1000 only NOT THE POINTY END!!! leave it alone!!! put off to side,

Back to Plastic Bushing , If you have a Jewelers loop you can look inside where the lines are that where the Crunchiness came from The striker was digging in to the plastic, Lightly clean up with 1000, also smooth out the Outside of Bushing too,
The bushing should slide in and out , of upper slide, No binding, it should not be tight , if it is tight it will choke the striker , (My Taurus PT 111 G2 had this Problem But Worse! Now smooth as silk!!, That's another Forum But same Idea, ,

Take some White Ultra fine Polishing compound and Mobil 1 on a Small Artist Brush, Small amount coat inside of bore , and Plastic bushing , reassemble and Make sure it Moves freely, , Complete assembly and test You should Feel it Immediately, if done correctly , You can test just working the striker inside the Upper slide, No more crunchiness, This works for ALL STRIKER fired, Fine out where the stamping Burrs are and remove them ,

If you are braver then you can do the same with the trigger system , its fairly simple design

Almost Forgot , I too have Ordered the Trigger assembly , Vast improvement, over 2 piece design

When I installed my Apex trigger I had the same problem and I contacted Apex and spoke to a rep. She told me about 20% of the installed triggers need to be filed in order to reset and/or fire after installation. She had no other explanation except it could be due to the molding process of either the trigger or the firearm. Just a few swipes of the file on the rear portion of the trigger did it for me. Glad it worked out on yours.

Upon the suggestion of Apex's truely excellent tech support staff, I referenced the photos several swipes above to trim my polymer trigger. I used a 600 grit 5.5 inch flat diamond file and a thin strip of duct tape protecting the frame. I am very pleased with my SD9-VE and like the trigger better than my M&P. It's not rocket science!

So now I know 5 times trying to find what I was doing wrong thank you gentleman now I know🤔😱