I've owned 1911's and a few other pistols that have allowed "cock and lock" and so I am a fan of it.
I am wondering if there is a way to convert to "cock and lock". I see that there is a "disengage" lever mounted in the frame that decocks the hammer when it is struck by the safety/decock lever. Is it as simple as removing that lever or filing it down?
Would like to hear your input. BMCM, you've done a ton of mods to your own carry guns. I wonder if this is possible?
Sorry, I didn't realize you were looking for my input until I happened to peek in here. I don't typically read every single thread posted, just peruse the titles that grab my attention.
The conversion you speak of while possible is not something I'd ever consider doing.
I have spent a good deal of time with a 1911 on my belt and certainly prefer condition 1 carry for that platform, so I get that you like cocked & locked. However the logic of doing this to a 3rd gen escapes me. For one thing, the to motion to sweep the safety off is the exact opposite between these two platforms. And as a CCW, when you modify or disable a safety function of the factory configuration I think you open yourself up to some additional legal vulnerability in event of a defensive shooting. you will also dis-qualify the weapon from competition, IDPA for example disqualifies weapons with disabled safety features.
Sure, I do a lot of modification to my carry guns but, but all that stuff is really just cosmetic and doesn't change the function of my weapon at all from as designed. You may note there are some things I never mess with. I don't mess with or disable safety features, I don't throat barrels, and I don't mess with engagement surfaces on sears triggers or hammers beyond a very light stoning to smooth things up and never ever change the cut angles.
So, yes I used to carry a 1911 in condition 1 quite often and over the years have gravitated towards and settled upon the 3rd gen 45 as my go to CCW.
I have, over quite some time trained myself to shoot equally well with either hand/eye so. As a result, I've developed a strong preference for ambi controls on my carry guns. Also like many folk my age do, I do occasionally bump into stuff. Stuff like doorjambs, shopping carts, lamp posts, trees, you get the picture. Makes me kinda nervous when I bump into stuff and find my 1911 safety has been disengaged in the holster. This is not an issue with my 3rd gens. The worst that can happen is my safety gets turned on, (has happened a few times) might slow me down a bit but won't cause me to ND myself in the butt. Otherwise and by design, the weapon is perfectly safe to carry with the M/S lever left in the fire position. Actually, I find the ideal configuration, at least for my personal preference, is the factory decock only arrangement. I like the "revolver like" simplicity of being able to bring the arm into action without having to worry about any buttons, knobs, or levers that need to be actuated first.
I you go forward with this modification, if nothing more than as an exercise in what you can do, these are my recommendations; take great care to insure you are able to revert to the as designed factory function. Don't modify any parts that are fit to and on the gun now, get additional parts to experiment with. And, while modified for condition 1 function, relegate the weapon to range toy status only. I wouldn't carry it for any serious purpose.
So looking over the safety/decock lever and the functions of the magazine disconnect, the sear release lever and the firing pin lever, it would appear that filing a slot in the safety lever where the sear release is would allow the sear release to stay engaged and hence allow the hammer to stay cocked and locked with the safety lever in a downward direction. As I see it, the safety lever when rotated to the downward position presses the sear release downward and this decocks the hammer. So having a slot to keep the safety from pressing this sear release lever should allow it to stay cocked and locked.
Thoughts?
That is certainly not the part I'd mess with. Those M/S levers are nigh impossible to obtain nowadays unless you buy another whole gun or happen to stumble across one on the used parts market in which case it may or may not even be serviceable.
The sear release lever on the other hand is still a stock item here and there and in a pinch you could even make one out of hardenable stainless steel with a few simple tools. Not so with the M/S safety, you wont be making one of those with a drill, hacksaw & a few files. Beyond some light stoning to smooth the function, I classify the M/S safety lever as a part not to be messed with. In general when you're going off the reservation with modifications you need to consider what is the most easily replaced part in case it doesn't work or you screw it up. If you decide to experiment with this conversion, stick to fiddling with the sear release lever.
Apologies for the long winded reply... You did ask for my input though

Cheers
Bill