How to NOT mangle your sideplate...

BMCM

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...When installing the grip.

New sideplates are not exactly a dime a dozen these days and I would not expect the supply status to improve greatly.

So, I thought this might be useful in order to help folks avoid breaking their guns.

Yeah, we want to avoid this...
IMG_3683.JPG


That sideplate is off a 4516 I have here for a decocker mod and re-finish among other things. That rear leg/prong broken off is typical of damage seen from improper grip installation.

So here's what you want to do when installing a grip on one of these guns so you don't break your sideplate.

In the following images, don't pay too much attention to where my hand is. I'm intentionally keeping my paws out of frame as much as possible so you can focus on where the grip is in relation to the frame and sideplate. Also bear in mind you're fighting the mainspring in opposition the whole time. The mainspring is trying to push the grip down off the frame while you're doing this.

Once you have wrestled the 'clamshell' onto the frame,
You want to position it like so...
IMG_3677.JPG


Note the grip is positioned proud of the frame to the rear and is still somewhat low.

What's important to note here is how the top of the grip on the left side is started up overlapping the flat portion of the sideplate while still well aft...
IMG_3678.JPG


From that point, carefully move the grip a bit further both forward and up getting to about here...
IMG_3679.JPG


See where I'm pointing with the punch? Note the grip is still a touch low and still proud of the frame to the rear.

From there, just giv'er a firm squeeze and it will snap into place...
IMG_3680.JPG


And... Done!

Just for information purposes, what follows is exactly how you should NOT install a grip.

This method of hooking the grip under the beavertail and pivoting it into place...
IMG_3681.JPG


Sideplate is in the crosshairs and Carlos Hathcock is behind the trigger. Can you say DOOMED!...
IMG_3682.JPG


Pivot that grip into place and the sideplate goes 'crunch'

You may get away with this a few times but, eventually you'll be shopping for a new sideplate.

A broken one like in the first image in unrepairable. A bent prong on rare occasions can be straightened out a and stress relieved such that it will be ok, But that's rare and only if the bend is minor.

Cheers
Bill
 
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Yep, that's an unfortunately not uncommon inattentive owner/armorer-induced breakage.

Sometimes you can come across a factory grip that ended up with varying degrees of an inward bend to the top/front points of the grip.



This requires a little extra attention when installing the grip to avoid the top/front corner from snagging on the bottom of the sideplate and tweaking the grip if you try to muscle it on against the resistance of the sideplate.

Nice pic to illustrate how the rear of the grip might not be fully seated forward against the top of the frame. :)

This is an easy (minor) problem to miss noticing until you've installed the grip pin and tried to depress the manual safety/decocker lever. :eek:




Like BMCM wrote, it's also an easy problem to correct by just grasping the grip/grip frame and squeezing, which seats the grip forward the rest of the way. ... As long as you haven't also made the mistake of failing to seat the grip's frame window hooks inside each side of the frame, catching each hook over the inside leading edge of the each side's frame window. (If that happens, you have to partially remove the grip to catch the hooks on the frame ... at which time you have the opportunity to again risk damaging the sideplate and forgetting to seat the top of the grip fully forward. :p )
 
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Are all of the 45 pistol sideplates the same? That is, will a 4506 side plate fit a 457?

The sideplates for the .45's have been revised over the years.

4506 part numbers:
106990000 $6.84 X SIDEPLATE ASSY
108600000 $6.84 R1 SIDEPLATE ASSY

The latest revised sideplate (R1) is the same one listed for the 1006/66. If I recall right (long time ago), I was told there was a minor change in the angle of the front plate of the sideplate, giving more tension to the slide stop assembly's plunger (resist recoil "parts flutter" to prevent early slide stop engagement). This was reportedly really important for the 10mm. I actually have a couple little baggies of sideplates with both parts numbers on them, from when I was making orders for my parts kits all the time.

Now, there's also a sideplate part number for the black finish (carbon steel) sideplates for the black finished .45's (CS45C & 457).

234200000 $6.84 X SIDEPLATE ASSY

I have one of the black sideplates on my 4513TSW, because a friend of mine wanted a contrasting stainless sideplate on his early release CS45C. Never got around to exchanging it with another stainless one, even though I have some.

Okay, I just went out to take some quick pics to try and compare them.

This pic shows some of the older .45/10 sideplates.


This pic shows the older sideplates (top) and the R1 sideplates (bottom).


It appears my memory from all those years ago may be correct, as if you look at the angle of the front plate, you can see the older part (bottom) had less of an angle to it than the R1 part's front plate (top).



Oh yeah, the exchanged black sideplate that ended up on my 4513TSW.


I think there's a Parts List in one of the Sticky's, but if not ...
 

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Speaking of side plates. In my pile o parts that I'm trying to sort out, there are two different sized sideplates. One is for a 6900 series but the other is longer, with a shorter bar. Can someone let me know what it's for?
Apologize for the upside down pics:)
 

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Speaking of side plates. In my pile o parts that I'm trying to sort out, there are two different sized sideplates. One is for a 6900 series but the other is longer, with a shorter bar. Can someone let me know what it's for?
Apologize for the upside down pics:)

I couldn't guess the model/caliber from the pics (I'd have to examine and compare to others), but the difference for the long and short posts is for double stack mag v. single stack mag frames.
 
I should have asked a more specific question. Midway has black sideplates listed as fitting the 1086, 4506, 4586, 4546, 645 and 745.

I don't have any of those, but do have two 457s.

So, the correct question is will that part fit the 457? To me it seems they will, but I'd hate to order one and then if I ever actually need it find out it doesn't work.
 
I should have asked a more specific question. Midway has black sideplates listed as fitting the 1086, 4506, 4586, 4546, 645 and 745.

I don't have any of those, but do have two 457s.

So, the correct question is will that part fit the 457? To me it seems they will, but I'd hate to order one and then if I ever actually need it find out it doesn't work.

Helpful of them not to list the factory part numbers, huh? ;)

Just looked at their display pic. Presuming it's actually a pic of the part they're selling (and not a "catalog" image), it's not easy to tell whether it's the old part or the revised part. Magnifying the pic, though, it kinda looks to my eyes like the front plate doesn't have much of an angle like the revised part (further forward at the top, to better hold down the slide stop lever). That would make it the older part. Maybe your eyes are better?

Now, if you open the Parts List I attached in my previous post, clicking on the "black" thumbnail image, you can see that the sideplate for the 745 & 4586 is listed as the older sideplate, which would presumably (?) be the #10699 designed part shown in the ad, but probably with a different part number because its not a plain stainless finish.

Now, if you're going to ask whether the old version sideplate will provide normal functioning in your 457, in your hands, using your preferred ammo? Dunno. The use of standard pressure versus +P might make a difference, too, since the +P would likely produce more recoil for the old design sideplate to have to handle. The S&W engineers usually made Revisions for a good reason.

Better than not having any replacement parts? Your call.
 
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Once again, BMCM takes the time to educate us through crystal-clear description and amazing close-up photos of ways we can keep from making mistakes that would be aggravating, and for those of us who choose not to try to gunsmith, expensive to correct. And as always, Fastbolt's years of armorer experience are an amazing resource to us Third Gen fans.

Thanks, you guys. You are way generous with your knowledge and expertise, and both of you are great credits to this Forum. We appreciate ya!
 
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Thanks for the info. I'll probably hold off on the side plate. Even though I don't use +P ammo in my alloy frame guns, I don't need a side plate right now.

OTOH, I am going to take advantage of Midway's birthday sale to buy some 45 magazine springs. ;)

Helpful of them not to list the factory part numbers, huh? ;)

Just looked at their display pic. Presuming it's actually a pic of the part they're selling (and not a "catalog" image), it's not easy to tell whether it's the old part or the revised part. Magnifying the pic, though, it kinda looks to my eyes like the front plate doesn't have much of an angle like the revised part (further forward at the top, to better hold down the slide stop lever). That would make it the older part. Maybe your eyes are better?

Now, if you open the Parts List I attached in my previous post, clicking on the "black" thumbnail image, you can see that the sideplate for the 745 & 4586 is listed as the older sideplate, which would presumably (?) be the #10699 designed part shown in the ad, but probably with a different part number because its not a plain stainless finish.

Now, if you're going to ask whether the old version sideplate will provide normal functioning in your 457, in your hands, using your preferred ammo? Dunno. The use of standard pressure versus +P might make a difference, too, since the +P would likely produce more recoil for the old design sideplate to have to handle. The S&W engineers usually made Revisions for a good reason.

Better than not having any replacement parts? Your call.
 
Gents, on the sideplate subject---could you explain
the best way to remove/install them?

Drive each pin out bit-by-bit in turn, keeping
the pin in the notch, or---?

Same, for reassembly--try to coordinate
everything at once, with pin in notch, or
snap sideplate over it?

I think I've done both ways, and always
wondered "what's the right way".
 
This thread came up in a timely manner. I just ordered new grips and spare sideplates for my 4046 and was worried about bending it during installation. Thanks OP!
 
Gents, on the sideplate subject---could you explain
the best way to remove/install them?

Drive each pin out bit-by-bit in turn, keeping
the pin in the notch, or---?

Same, for reassembly--try to coordinate
everything at once, with pin in notch, or
snap sideplate over it?

I think I've done both ways, and always
wondered "what's the right way".

Steve, I like to keep the pin in the notch.

Snapping the sideplate over the pin is an invitation to snap one of the legs.

However, the experts (of which I am NOT one) subscribe to the snap method.

John

P.S. Like I said, I am no expert.
I knew some girls back in high school that were definitely "pert"!
That was a long time ago and I'm pretty sure they would be "ex-pert" now. :D
 
Then again, when I install an S&W 3rd gen grip, I align the tip of the sear pin with the groove on the inside of the left grip panel, and the experts never seem to mention this...

I guess I was just never cut out to be an expert. ;)

John
 
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