Is a rotating cleaning rod necessary?

Gorme

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I have a Tipton cleaning rod that has a rotating handle. I don't like it. I really just prefer the inexpensive Dewey 1-piece brass rods.

However, those don't have rotating ends... You just run 'em through. Does it really matter? Will it eventually mess up the rifling?
 
I have a Tipton cleaning rod that has a rotating handle. I don't like it. I really just prefer the inexpensive Dewey 1-piece brass rods.

However, those don't have rotating ends... You just run 'em through. Does it really matter? Will it eventually mess up the rifling?
 
in theory,the rotating rod will let the brush,patch,ect. follow the lands,removing more "stuff". where a non rotating rod will just let the brush,patch "skip over"the lands.jwr
 
That's it, jwr747. But I'm not sure the theory is correct. My best cleaning results have always been with a static, non-rotating rod like the Dewey and a few swipes of the brass brush.
 
Don't tighten the brush to the rod so it will have enough thread to turn as you push it throrgh the bore. But not realy anything to worry about anyway.
 
Originally posted by Gorme:
I have a Tipton cleaning rod that has a rotating handle. I don't like it. I really just prefer the inexpensive Dewey 1-piece brass rods.

However, those don't have rotating ends... You just run 'em through. Does it really matter? Will it eventually mess up the rifling?


I do not think it is a big deal. Lots of people put far too much effort and thought into it. Get a cleaning rod brass bristle brush, dip in solvent and make a few passes. Let the solvent stand in the barrel while you clean the rest of the gun. This gives the solvent time to work. Then use a jag on a cleaning rod to run some dry patches through and voila! You are finished. If you are worried about rust due to humidity, weather, etc., you can use another patch to coat the bore with gun oil, but after doing so, swab out the excess with a dry patch before putting the pistol in your pants, unless you want to have oil running down inside your clothes!
 
Back in the 1960's I spent a little time in a military arsenal, cleaning light and heavy weapons. On badly fouled bores a bronze bristle brush was used on a rod chucked into an electric drill.

So, the rod was indeed rotating! Results? After 2 or three passes with a dry bronze brush rotating several hundred times per minute, run a solvent-soaked patch through the bore, then a couple of dry patches, and everything was just fine. Muzzle erosion and throat erosion measurements were taken prior to re-issue of the weapons and barrels, and I don't recall any being outside of accepted norms.

This method was used on caliber .50 and 7.62mm machinegun barrels, as well as M14's, M1911-A1's, and .38 revolvers. Some of the MG barrels had been fired several thousands of rounds at range training, etc., and were heavily fouled.

Too much is made of the minor differences in cleaning equipment and techniques. For a top-grade match rifle appropriate care is required. For the typical shooter-grade weapon any reasonable method will give good results and provide many, many thousands of rounds of good service.
 
My first time cleaning my AR with a 24 inch barrel and a solid rod the jag unscrewed 2/3 of the way down the barrel. It way a pain to get out. Now I use rotating rods for rifles. Sometimes my jags will be very loose on the rod after cleaning some pistols, especially if left a few threads loose to start.
 
When I use the slotted end for the cleaning patch, the rod doesn't rotate at all. Guess I should switch to the pointed jag.
 
When you use a tight fitting tool such as a brush or jag, it will be forced to rotate. If you don't have a rotating shank then the tool will unscrew from the rod as you push it through the bore. Either that or the rod will unscrew from the handle.
 
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