Tips for removing extractor pins

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marcus99

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I've heard that these pins were installed at the factory using a hydraulic press. I've also read some past threads of others struggling to get these pins out. I've tried some of the suggestions I read to no avail, I can't get the extractor pin to budge on a Mod. 915 using a 1/16 pin punch. I've had success on other S&W's (6906, 5906 and 645), but not here despite soaking it in Kroil.

Has anyone tried an arbor press? Or perhaps there is some other unique type of punch of which I'm not aware? Any other tips are appreciated.
 
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I use a sight adjusting tool made and sold by a Forum member. He can also provide the proper pin. Worked great for me.
Cannot think of his name. Perhaps someone here can remember.
 
I didn’t have any trouble. A punch and hammer. I believe I just used my small brass hammer.
 
Had one that was stubborn, used a finish nail set, to get it started.
Had another that needed to be drilled out. That one got sent to the pros.
Patience is key, Good luck!
 
I thought of using a finish nail set punch, but my concern is egging out the pin hole as the pin sits perfectly flush.
 
It is important that when driving out a stubborn pin you use a solid non vibrating surface that makes 100% contact with the gun part. If not, much of the directed force will not go towards pushing the pin out. A steel bench block covered with a thin cloth works well. The steel will provide a stiff substrate and the cloth will keep the gun from being scratched. Once you loosen up the pin and it starts to move, a non marring rubber or plastic bench block can be used.

Also make sure you are using the correct size punch and I'd suggest using a non rebounding dead blow ball peen hammer. Some pins are removed in a certain direction but not owning the specific gun you are talking about, someone else will have to guide you there.

NOTE: make sure the face of the punch is not only the correct size, make sure it's not chipped, pockmarked and it is perfectly flat. If it's not in good shape, you can correct that on a grinder in 30 seconds. Just use water to cool so it doesn't heat up and loose its hardness.
 
Last edited:
The extractor pin is tapered, it is larger in diameter at the bottom, so drive the pin out from the top of the slide. Driving the pin from the bottom of the slide is difficult and results in an oversized pin hole that will no longer retain the pin.
 
chief38 said:
It is important that when driving out a stubborn pin you use a solid non vibrating surface that makes 100% contact with the gun part. If not, much of the directed force will not go towards pushing the pin out. A steel bench block covered with a thin cloth works well. The steel will provide a stiff substrate and the cloth will keep the gun from being scratched. Once you loosen up the pin and it starts to move, a non marring rubber or plastic bench block can be used.

Also make sure you are using the correct size punch and I'd suggest using a non rebounding dead blow ball peen hammer. Some pins are removed in a certain direction but not owning the specific gun you are talking about, someone else will have to guide you there.

NOTE: make sure the face of the punch is not only the correct size, make sure it's not chipped, pockmarked and it is perfectly flat. If it's not in good shape, you can correct that on a grinder in 30 seconds. Just use water to cool so it doesn't heat up and loose its hardness.
Click to expand...

stansdds said:
The extractor pin is tapered, it is larger in diameter at the bottom, so drive the pin out from the top of the slide. Driving the pin from the bottom of the slide is difficult and results in an oversized pin hole that will no longer retain the pin.
Click to expand...

Both of the above are good advice.

Also, use a "starter punch" if you are not already.

If you do not have one, a standard length punch can be ground down until there is only about 3/8" of tip remaining.

It will make the business end much stiffer and you can strike it harder with the hammer.

An already bent punch is a good candidate for the mod.

After you get it started, a full length punch can drive it out the rest of the way.

John
 
Embarrassed to say it but I've given up on getting the extractor pin removed. I tried a nail set pin punch, different hammers, sturdier surfaces etc...none were successful. Thinking it's time to send this off to BMCM before I damage the pin hole.

Thanks all for your input
 
I recently purchased a 3566 limited that was probably the dirtiest gun I’ve ever cleaned. I took it down completely except for the extractor. I have it a good split try but gave up and decided a good soaking with kroil, a blasting with gun scrubber, liberal application of frp-10, then compressed air to remove the excess worked pretty good. There might be a little bit of crud left in there but I can’t tell and the gun functions perfectly now.
 
JohnHL said:
Both of the above are good advice.

Also, use a "starter punch" if you are not already.

If you do not have one, a standard length punch can be ground down until there is only about 3/8" of tip remaining.

It will make the business end much stiffer and you can strike it harder with the hammer.

An already bent punch is a good candidate for the mod.

After you get it started, a full length punch can drive it out the rest of the way.

John
Click to expand...

Great addition to the advise! After many years of working on guns, equipment and machinery with pins, I've got a bunch of starter punches now, especially in the 1/16" and 3/32" sizes - LOL!!

Just simply cut the punch shorter with a Dremel (or similar abrasive wheel - keep cool with water so temper isn't lost), make perfectly flat and make sure there are no burs or sharp edges. - there's your starter punch. Use small diameter punches often enough and you will "acquire" starter punches. :D
 
I appreciate knowing the dang pins are tapered! I've always hammered from the bottom up so I don't slip and mar the top of the slide. I've always got them out though.
 
Dave Baird said:
I appreciate knowing the dang pins are tapered! I've always hammered from the bottom up so I don't slip and mar the top of the slide. I've always got them out though.
Click to expand...

Some pins are and others are not. It's not something you can actually see, so before going to town punching in only one direction if the pin won't budge, try the other direction.

Speaking of pins, there have been a few instances that I have replaced roll pins with solid pins. I have never liked roll pins! A perfect example of this is when I have had exotic grips made for S&W Revolvers. I never wanted to chance the sharp ends of the roll pins cutting into the expensive stocks. With a solid pin that chance is eliminated. At least I sleep better! :D
 
marcus99 said:
Embarrassed to say it but I've given up on getting the extractor pin removed. I tried a nail set pin punch, different hammers, sturdier surfaces etc...none were successful. Thinking it's time to send this off to BMCM before I damage the pin hole.

Thanks all for your input
Click to expand...

There is no embarrassment in asking better skilled/equipped people for help.
Knowing your limits and getting "the guy" involved.
Before, it gets too ugly or damaged beyond repair is not a bad thing.
 
Heymatt said:
There is no embarrassment in asking better skilled/equipped people for help.
Knowing your limits and getting "the guy" involved.
Before, it gets too ugly or damaged beyond repair is not a bad thing.
Click to expand...

Indeed, true words. It’s on its way to Bill. If my attempt to remove the pin resulted in any damage I’ll gladly post the results as a forewarning to others regarding these pins. I don’t think I hurt the hole, but all it takes is one slip with the punch.

To those who said “Just leave it alone”, below is a photo of why I want to completely detail strip this gun. The value line finishes were their known weak spot, rust on the slides is fairly common. I found significant buildup under the sights and I’d not be surprised if the same were true underneath the extractor:

7msgYvZ.jpg
 
The pins are NOT tapered. they must be driven from the top down when removing, bottom up when replacing..We would ream the bottom hole before fitting the gun. The pin can't go up any further and can't come out when the slide is on the frame.
 
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