As you might have seen in my previous post I have recently acquired a 1006, I had one back in the early 90's the only issue I had back then was some galling on barrel lug where it mates with the frame to bring the barrel down and back. This gun doesn't show any of this. The only issue I have had was one FTF that was with a yellow follower magazine (2 yellow follower mags/3 white follower mags) I haven't tried the white follower mags yet. The FTF could be a number of factors at my end, my reloads were for my Glock 20, long OAL cartridge length, neck sized only brass (leaving the Glock smile in them). My main question here is what kind of issues have you guys that have been shooting 1006's for a long time experienced. Don't spare my feelings I want to hear it all, good or bad. I have been away from this platform for a long time. I would like to know what parts are prone to failure so I can start hording them also. Not quite like a 1911 where you can pick up parts at any local hardware store. Thanks
1006 questions
- Thread starter EBSF1911
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TEZ is sometime in 1990.
It's not a 1911, and not much way to make it into one. That's probably a good thing. Just learn to fire the first shot DA like the gun is designed. It's. it as hard to do as some make it out.
JohnHL
Member
Yes.
Relatively easy, too.
But watch out.
Any discussion of such things sends the mechanically bewildered members of this forum into apoplexy!
John
Yes, you should convert your yellow follower magazines to white - part number 233080000 (available at Midway).
I get that you prefer single action and while it can be done (sort of) your 1006 just wasn't engineered with condition 1 in mind. I think the better option here is to train yourself to master the DA pull. Do this through dry fire training. Focus your attention on maintaining perfect sight alignment then practice dry firing until you are able to consistently cycle the DA trigger without upsetting the sight alignment. Safety Note: make double damn sure your weapon & mag are clear before starting then check it again. Ya don't want to blast a hole in your TV
This is pretty much how I mastered DA unsupported with either hand. I even trained myself to switch my dominant eye when swapping hands.
The updated white follower deters cartridge "nose diving" in the magazine and is a direct replacement.
Cheers
Bill
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exfedagent
Member
I have a 1076 which is an ex-FBI gun. I talked to a retired FBI agent who carried a 1076 until they made him turn it in. He claimed to have lots of experience with the 1076. He said to avoid the magazines with the yellow followers. He said they caused problems but did not specify what kind.
Yes.
Relatively easy, too.
But watch out.
Any discussion of such things sends the mechanically bewildered members of this forum into apoplexy!
John
I'm hardly mechanically bewildered. What the OP wants is certainly not relatively easy. What is relatively easy is to convert to decocker only. All you need is a mill and the skill, plus a few parts. Making the gun capable of being carried cocked and locked would be quite involved if even possible at all. Also, the direction of the safety would have to be reversed. Hence I suggested he learn to use the pistol as intended in the first place.
DA/SA
I didn't intend on striking a sour note on my second day on the forum by wanting to turn a 1006 into a 1911. I was hoping for the best of both worlds. I do know a thing or two about double action, my daily carry for the past number of years has been a S&W J-frame M&P 340. I do rotate a 1911 into the carry rotation every now and then, occasionally my wife's SIG 938.
I didn't intend on striking a sour note on my second day on the forum by wanting to turn a 1006 into a 1911. I was hoping for the best of both worlds. I do know a thing or two about double action, my daily carry for the past number of years has been a S&W J-frame M&P 340. I do rotate a 1911 into the carry rotation every now and then, occasionally my wife's SIG 938.
So far the only issue I've had with mine was having to replace the recoil buffer. I think it was around $15 from Numrich (p/n 765630). They have the white mag followers too (p/n 339380). I've built a couple of mags with parts from them also, quite a bit cheaper than what they sell for on auction and trade-a-gun sites. Mid $50 range if I remember correctly. You just have to catch them when everything's in stock. Believe it or not, the part that is usually out of stock is the $5 butt plate catch.
As far as making it SA/DA, I'll leave that for the real gurus here. I'm no gunsmith and I would never attempt it.
As far as making it SA/DA, I'll leave that for the real gurus here. I'm no gunsmith and I would never attempt it.
I just checked Midway and they are quite a bit cheaper on everything. The follower (p/n 227672) is $3.90 vs $5.90 at Numrich. The number given by jsbethel is S&W's part number, also listed in Midway's site, so you could probably order it with that number also. Still the butt plate catches are a no-go. A really simple little piece of stamped steel...if someone could crank out a bunch, they could really clean up.
I've been looking for parts to service my Marlin camp 45, so I've been looking around the gun parts sites a bit and thought I'd search the 10xx parts out too.
I've been looking for parts to service my Marlin camp 45, so I've been looking around the gun parts sites a bit and thought I'd search the 10xx parts out too.
I've been trying to get the butt plate catches for awhile. By the time I get the email they're gone. That's the only piece needed to make your own 10mm mags that are not readily available.
This is a mysterious part you show here, I went to the Numrich site and what it shows appears to be a rubbery-plastic part similar to the Wilson Shok-Buff item of 1911 fame -- or to be more direct, the infamous Shok-Buff that most swear against and even Wilson doesn't install in their pistols.
I have found limited use for these in some places, but this is definitely -NOT- a stock, original part for any Smith & Wesson 1-2-3rd Gen pistol. You shouldn't have one in there that needs to be replaced, it's outside the design of the gun.
It seems quite often we have threads here by folks who want to stock up on arguably "consumable" parts of seemingly indestructible guns simply because they are out of production. The easiest (and typically best, most accurate) answer is... buy some springs from Wolff, buy extra magazines when you see them and if you honestly believe other parts are going to fail -- buy a second, back-up handgun in the same model. If we are talking a 5906 or 4006 or 915, this is not only EASY, but it's cheap too. It's the best answer. On a 1006, not so simple or low in cost.
But it's no less the God's honest truth. If you keep good springs in it and you keep the pistol lubed and you use proper, in-spec ammo and you care for the pistol like it you ought to, the raw numbers bear it out... simple cost of the ammo it would take to "wear out" a 1006 is more (far more) than it'd cost to buy another 1006.
In my opinion, and without trying to offend, but this "oh my, out of production, I need spare parts!" is really a whole lot of nervous, unnecessary energy.
Additionally-- yes, these are out of production and yes, S&W cannot be counted to on fix, repair or be the magic answer if something fails. However, contrary to what is (far too often) said, S&W DOES still have some parts! And Numrich is a constant cycle of parts in and out, what they may not have today may come in next week, as this is precisely their business. Their parts come from guns taken out of service. On top of that, Gunbroker and other venues show parts here and there and the folks on exactly this forum can sometimes come up with specific parts WHEN they are needed, so that is my recommendation for going forward in to the future with your 1006.
So I don't even need it? When I first bought my 1006 (used, but not abused), I tore it down to inspect, clean and lube it. It had that rubber buffer in it and it was pretty well chewed up. I went on the Numrich site and did a search for 10xx parts and found a piece that looked identical, so I ordered it. I replaced it before I shot it, and since, I've put maybe 250 rounds through it in a little more than a year. It's more of a safe queen now, but does see a little range time now and then. Heck, if it's not necessary, I'll pull it back out. Like I said, I'm not a gunsmith, but I do know my way around guns enough to field strip, inspect, clean, lube and replace worn/broken parts.
EBSF1911 wanted to know which parts are prone to fail, so he could stock up on them. I was just volunteering what I had found in mine. I admit I learn something new about guns nearly every week. I'll never carry my 1006, but enjoy shooting it at the range. At the rate I do shoot it, I'll be lucky if I reach the 1000 round mark after owning it for 5 years.
No sour note struck. Once one becomes comfortable with the 1911 platform, the other semi autos all seem to suck in the trigger department. Trust me, I have spent countless hours trying to make a Beretta or gen3 Smith feel like a 1911 trigger. While improvements were made, getting it there just ain't gonna happen. Now if you can come across one of the very scarce and expensive gen3 single action target guns, or a M52 or 952, etc. then you have something to work with. Still not going to be able to carry cocked and locked.
JohnHL
Member
Actually, it IS relatively easy.
As easy as grinding the foot off of the sear release lever. (Much easier than the decock-only mod, which btw, requires no milling machine. I've done a few slides with a HF drill press and a 1/8" end mill.)
The hammer can now be left cocked with the safety applied.
The down side is decocking.
One must control the hammer with the thumb while pressing the trigger. Not as easy as moving the lever, but us revolver guys have been doing it since the late 1800s.
No reason to reverse the safety.
And please, take no offense, epj.
I did not mean to imply that you, personally, were "mechanically bewildered".
It's just been my experience that those members lacking knowledge of the fire control system on S&W pistols are often the first to condemn any modification of which they are unfamiliar.
John
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The 1006 is a tank, very heavy built, I have had mine since 92. I have replaced recoil springs,that's it. I have experimented with some crazy reloading it. You can push the 135 gr jhp at some ridiculous velocities. Mine has the big protected ears s&w rear sight, which I very much like. I also switched to Hogue rubber grips. Any time you come across a mag, buy it. Wolff has replacement springs for mags, and recoil springs. Decide on the power level of loads you are most likely to use, and change your recoil spring accordingly. Me personally, I bought a 10mm, I don't want mouse fart loads. I tried the shock buffers, tied the gun up the one and only time I ever had this gun malfunction.
Good info
Glad to hear that you guys haven't had dependability issues. Thanks for the help in re-familiarizing me with the platform. It has been a long time since I had one. My first pistol was a 4506, second Ruger MK II, Third 1006. I didn't know much about guns back then, it's been a fun ride learning about each new platform I get into. Right now I would like to get the single action tuned down to around 4lbs.
Glad to hear that you guys haven't had dependability issues. Thanks for the help in re-familiarizing me with the platform. It has been a long time since I had one. My first pistol was a 4506, second Ruger MK II, Third 1006. I didn't know much about guns back then, it's been a fun ride learning about each new platform I get into. Right now I would like to get the single action tuned down to around 4lbs.
Actually, it IS relatively easy.
As easy as grinding the foot off of the sear release lever. (Much easier than the decock-only mod, which btw, requires no milling machine. I've done a few slides with a HF drill press and a 1/8" end mill.)
The hammer can now be left cocked with the safety applied.
The down side is decocking.
One must control the hammer with the thumb while pressing the trigger. Not as easy as moving the lever, but us revolver guys have been doing it since the late 1800s.
No reason to reverse the safety.
And please, take no offense, epj.
I did not mean to imply that you, personally, were "mechanically bewildered".
It's just been my experience that those members lacking knowledge of the fire control system on S&W pistols are often the first to condemn any modification of which they are unfamiliar.
John
I'm impressed with your machining skills. When I was installing DROs on my mill I needed to slot a couple of holes in a piece of aluminum flat bar. My pretty sturdy drill press has a milling table installed and I still had a hell of a time getting those holes slotted on the drill press.
I agree with your assessment of the naysayers. Spot on in many cases.
JohnHL
Member
Thanks, epj!
Using a drill press as a milling machine typically is an exercise in frustration. Too much lateral movement in the drill press quill.
Luckily, the length of the slot for the spring loaded decocker conversion is only 3/16".
One and one half times the diameter of the end mill so... not much of a slot.
Anything more than twice the diameter of the end mill and I would be choosing a milling machine or grinders and files.
John
Using a drill press as a milling machine typically is an exercise in frustration. Too much lateral movement in the drill press quill.
Luckily, the length of the slot for the spring loaded decocker conversion is only 3/16".
One and one half times the diameter of the end mill so... not much of a slot.
Anything more than twice the diameter of the end mill and I would be choosing a milling machine or grinders and files.
John
Backing up
Backing up to an earlier post. One of my first issues was a failure to feed, so I went out with yellow mags and white mags, factory ammo and reloads, both mags ran factory ammo fine, both mags had FTF with my reloads. Going back to my loading data I was loading long to try and squeeze more accuracy out of my Glock 20, with the G20's LOOSE chamber I am running .030" to the long side. DW RZ 10 & S&W 1006 both don't like it long. I should have had a clue when my reloads were scrapping the mag tube when loading. I don't think I will even try them in my full custom Delta Commander when UPS delivers it tomorrow
Backing up to an earlier post. One of my first issues was a failure to feed, so I went out with yellow mags and white mags, factory ammo and reloads, both mags ran factory ammo fine, both mags had FTF with my reloads. Going back to my loading data I was loading long to try and squeeze more accuracy out of my Glock 20, with the G20's LOOSE chamber I am running .030" to the long side. DW RZ 10 & S&W 1006 both don't like it long. I should have had a clue when my reloads were scrapping the mag tube when loading. I don't think I will even try them in my full custom Delta Commander when UPS delivers it tomorrow
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Another Serial Number Question
I am getting ready to List my 1006 on "Gun Broker" pretty soon and I would like to supply as much information about the gun as possible. The serial number is "TET000x" as in a single digit serial number. So far I can not find where the prefects TET falls in the production run though. I do have the original box and box labels. The product code is 104800 which means adjustable sights and the second trigger. there is a spec.Ord. number of 52; which may be an Julian Date. I have in total 5 magazines all with a orange bullet follower. I have fired this beast and tried my best to get this gun certify to carry on duty, but a singe Captain in the line had his doubts and stopped the process. I might list it here if you gentlemen think this is a better sight for this particular sale. Any help would be appreciated.
I am getting ready to List my 1006 on "Gun Broker" pretty soon and I would like to supply as much information about the gun as possible. The serial number is "TET000x" as in a single digit serial number. So far I can not find where the prefects TET falls in the production run though. I do have the original box and box labels. The product code is 104800 which means adjustable sights and the second trigger. there is a spec.Ord. number of 52; which may be an Julian Date. I have in total 5 magazines all with a orange bullet follower. I have fired this beast and tried my best to get this gun certify to carry on duty, but a singe Captain in the line had his doubts and stopped the process. I might list it here if you gentlemen think this is a better sight for this particular sale. Any help would be appreciated.
When these pistols debuted, S&W gave the first ones a sn prefix of "TEN", I suppose because they thought it cute, "ten" as in "ten millimeter...", I obviously think little efforts like this come across silly myself, much like the Model 627 revolvers that say ".357 Eight times", which paints a picture in my mind of some dumb teenager running loose inside the factory...
Haha, let's not be too serious, YES, I'm sure many disagree with my opinion on such things... moving on...
The 10xx pistols started with the TEN-letter prefix, following in alphabetic order, the next were TEO, TEP, etc. One known exception to this "rule" is that a run of the 10mm pistols carry the TVA-prefix as they were made specifically for a Tennessee Valley Authority contract.
The SN of your pistol is normal/average for the model. The 1006 is the most common or prevalent of all six models and the adjustable sight version is arguably the lesser in demand than the fixed Novak sight model. They never offered an orange follower in a factory 10mm magazine, I would guess what you may see is what we refer to as the yellow follower. There was an orange follower in use in early 645 magazines but I would otherwise doubt you have five 10mm mags with .45 followers in them.
The market for 10xx mags is hot these days, having 5 adds value. The pistol itself with one mag and no box would trade in the $700-$800 range... add four mags and original box, you likely have a package that could approach $1,200 or more but only if a buyer with money agrees.
My estimate is merely a ballpark and certainly dependent on other factors.
Haha, let's not be too serious, YES, I'm sure many disagree with my opinion on such things... moving on...
The 10xx pistols started with the TEN-letter prefix, following in alphabetic order, the next were TEO, TEP, etc. One known exception to this "rule" is that a run of the 10mm pistols carry the TVA-prefix as they were made specifically for a Tennessee Valley Authority contract.
The SN of your pistol is normal/average for the model. The 1006 is the most common or prevalent of all six models and the adjustable sight version is arguably the lesser in demand than the fixed Novak sight model. They never offered an orange follower in a factory 10mm magazine, I would guess what you may see is what we refer to as the yellow follower. There was an orange follower in use in early 645 magazines but I would otherwise doubt you have five 10mm mags with .45 followers in them.
The market for 10xx mags is hot these days, having 5 adds value. The pistol itself with one mag and no box would trade in the $700-$800 range... add four mags and original box, you likely have a package that could approach $1,200 or more but only if a buyer with money agrees.
My estimate is merely a ballpark and certainly dependent on other factors.
I've heard that before, but why is it?
