$155 project revolver - *final pics*

[VNK971]

I bought this 5 screw M&P off Gunbroker for $155 total. I knew it was rough from the pictures so I didn't really know what to expect. I got it Monday and took the stocks off finding the rusty mainspring. Looks like the stocks hadn't been off in a long time. I started taking it apart today. Two slide plate screws are still a little tight so I have penetrating oil on them. Surprisingly there doesn't seem to be any pitting, the bore and cylinder charge holes are shiny, and the stocks look pretty good. The smaller side plate screw slot is off center. The sn is C337657 which puts it in mid to late 50s I guess. I'm anxious to see the insides. I'll post more pictures as it progresses.

Final pics #38.

 

[epj]

A little finish challenged but otherwise seems like it can be made serviceable.

 

[italiansport]

Looks like you have quite the project there. Was it operable when you received it? I can't tell from the pictures so is it a non finish left blued gun on one with bad nickle plating? Good luck with your project.
Jim

 

[Old_Cop]

I agree the stocks look much better than the gun, now tell us about the project.

 

[gmborkovic]

Please soak the plate seam with a little oil. Good snag for the money.

 

[DWalt]

C337657 suggests shipment around late 1955. An excellent candidate for a DIY rust blue project.

 

[lamarw]

A half and half mixture of white vinegar and water will take it to a "white" condition meaning removing any remaining blueing prior to a do it yourself bluing. That is if you decide to do so.

It only takes about 2 hours submerged in the solution, at the most, to remove all the remaining bluing.

 

[2152hq]

That doesn't look bad at all. Wouldn't take a whole lot to get it ready for a rust blue as DWalt & lamarw mentioned.
That one side late screw with the off center slot,,that may take a bit of patience to remove. I can't remember seeing one that far off the mark on a S&W before. Take it easy on it and you can back it out.

 

[austintexas]

Put it in a pan and cover it with Kroil or transmission fluid and let it soak for a week and I think those tight screws will loosen.
SWCA 892

 

[S&WsRsweet]

155 bucks is a great price when you consider the enjoyment you will have bringing it back to life plus the pride you will have if you do it yourself ,great find.

 

[zipty6]

That's a good deal. I'm wondering how I missed that one.

I also recommend finishing it with slow rust blue. I'm in the middle of the process on one now. It's not difficult and the results can be very rewarding.

 

[battle]

That's a good deal. I'm wondering how I missed that one.

I also recommend finishing it with slow rust blue. I'm in the middle of the process on one now. It's not difficult and the results can be very rewarding.

When finished post some pics. I'd like to see how the rust blue comes out. Thanks!

 

[zipty6]

When finished post some pics. I'd like to see how the rust blue comes out. Thanks!

Will do.

Here's a model 10-6 that I did a while back:

 

[OLDSTER]

For $155.00 ? What a great winter project gun. Congrats

 

[MCorps0311]

Will do.Yours look great.

 

[Jack Flash]

... I'll post more pictures as it progresses.

We sure will be anxious to see your progress on this one. Some day I am going to buy a similar one and give it a try myself.

 

[VNK971]

I was able to get the other two side plate screws out today. Thanks to all suggesting the rust blue. I think that is what I'm going to do.

 

[zipty6]

When finished post some pics. I'd like to see how the rust blue comes out. Thanks!

Pics of the model 36 that I just finished with in slow rust blue are now posted to this thread.

 

[Jack222]

Looks like a great project. Enjoy the pictures.

 

[two-bit cowboy]

Looking forward to your future photos. I keep looking for a project piece, but others keep driving the prices up. Congrats on your find.

 

[Vulcannut]

Looks like that piece has found a well deserved good home. Please share the progress.

 

[Walkingwolf]

Myself I like guns that look like they are a couple hundred years old. I'd do routine service, oil it, and carry it. I have seen SASS shooters that would drool over that gun if it was a single action.

 

[VNK971]

Myself I like guns that look like they are a couple hundred years old. I'd do routine service, oil it, and carry it. I have seen SASS shooters that would drool over that gun if it was a single action.

If the previous owner had left it alone I might have done that. This is one of my favorites, but I have to put target stocks on it when I shoot it.

 

[VNK971]

Started today

I finally got everything together and started the rust bluing process. The stuff was out-of-stock at Brownells, and twice as much when shipping was added at Midway, so I waited. It took a while to get back in stock. I didn't have enough humidity on the first pass. I waited about 2 hours and very little happened, so I put it in the shower stall and turned on the hot water on the opposite end. It immediately started to change color. I gave it about 1/2 hour and put it in the boiling water. The second pass started in the shower and only took about 45 minutes. I put the carding wheel in my small drill press, and killed my drill press just as I was finishing carding the frame on the second pass. I'll start again tomorrow. Pics are clean parts, first pass before carding, and second pass after carding. Pics aren't very good. More tomorrow.

 

[Jim NNN]

Good luck. Looks like fun! I'm sure you'll do a fine job.

 

[824tsv]

I wish I was able to hang out with you while you're doing that. To me it's fascinating.

 

[Waveski]

I do not know what "carding" means. Please advise.

VNK971 - I am curious - do you intend to reuse the side plate screw with the extremely offset slot? Character piece ?

 

[VNK971]

I do not know what "carding" means. Please advise.

Carding is scraping the rust off. I'm using a wire brush wheel I bought from Brownells, and 0000 steel wool because that is what I had on hand yesterday.

VNK971 - I am curious - do you intend to reuse the side plate screw with the extremely offset slot? Character piece ?

I hadn't thought that far ahead, but now that you mention it I will. Thanks.

 

[Tadeus67]

Looks good, keep us posted with your advance in this very interesting project.

 

[glowe]

Just make a small plastic tent. I place a damp sponge in the tent and closed it up for 4 hours. The first rustings often do not show even coverage and may not show much rust, but will develop a nice rust with additional applications. I usually do about 12 to 15 cycles. Try not to get any of the acid inside the frame and barrel, since it is almost impossible to get all the rust out of the crevices and threads. You can blue the interior with cold blue before the gun is ready to re-assemble if a nicely blued interior is desired.

If you are having any trouble with any oils seeping out or mottled bluing, re-strip the finish using Naval Jelly to get into the threads, cracks and crevices and it will dissolve all oils as well as bluing, and rust. Wash with small brushes in hot soap & water, then use 0000 steel wool to polish the surfaces prior to rusting. Boil the parts in TSP/water solution before applying the rust bluing. I always use this material to prepare the metal for bluing and gives great results. Naval Jelly is an acid and can affect the surfaces of smooth metal if left on too long, but follow the directions and you will not have any problems.

Lastly, make sure to neutralize the steel after the bluing is complete. Use large amounts of Baking Soda dissolved in hot water, then soak or boil the liquid with all blued parts totally submerged. I use baking soda instead of baking powder because it is a higher pH. Baking soda has a pH of 9, while baking powder is around 8.