19-1 Trigger
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John Fugate
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How many ounces is the trigger pull on your 19-1 ? That would give everyone a baseline to give you an accurate answer. What feels light to you, may feel simply normal to me or even heavy. Not to mention what the next guy perceives as to what a light or heavy trigger pull feels like to him.
John Fugate
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After feeling a standard Glocks trigger, i can see where it would feel light, nice and crisp. It's a chore to pull the trigger on my Glock, it's almost like work.
Oscar Zulu
Member
I'm going to assume it is a normal single action trigger pull. I have heard it likened to "breaking a glass rod." It's maybe the single most liked feature of Smith and Wesson revolvers! (Definitely a different experience than striker fired or double action semi autos, and better in my opinion).
The 19-1 wasn't made long, so not many out there. Neat gun! You will enjoy it!
OZ
The 19-1 wasn't made long, so not many out there. Neat gun! You will enjoy it!
OZ
roscoepc
Member
Not trying to be smart here but comparing the SA trigger pull on ANY S&W Revolver to a Glock is like comparing the ride in a '71 Pinto to a '71 Lincoln Town Car!! So smooth you don't even know the weapon's been fired!!!
Well.... Maybe not that smooth but you get the idea!!
You might want to check for "push off" if you are noting an extremely light single action trigger pull. Cock the hammer and try to push it forward. If it doesn't "push off" and stays right there, all is good. If it pushes off with strong finger pressure, you will need to have that fixed.
I have an old, well worn, well used Model 19-3 and its single action trigger makes some Colt Python triggers seem like Glock triggers. Seriously, my 19-3 has no indication of having been altered, just used quite a bit. The double action is very smooth, the single action is very crisp and never a malfunction or failure to fire. So many old S&W revolvers show they were built by craftsmen, not just parts installers.
Hair Trigger
US Veteran
You must be talking about the SA pull, which sounds entirely normal for most S&W revolvers of that era. As mentioned, check for push-off, which is a test for a worn or altered SA sear. You only need to push moderately and for just a second or two with your thumb; if the hammer drops, the gun is unsafe. I don't suspect you'll find a problem, though. Double action should be about 3X the effort until the hammer "rolls over the top" to fall, but should still be very smooth with no notchy feeling.
You can't compare a revolver SA pull to a semiauto, unless maybe a nicely worked 1911 or BHP, which both have external hammers. And a striker fired semi will never be as short or smooth a pull as a S&W SA.
The minimum trigger pull in single action is 2.5 pounds as spec'd in the S&W Armorer's Manual. If you are lighter than that, it should be looked at.
Stu
Stu
Surprising to me, the single action pull checked out to be 3.0 pounds. Looks like I have a weapon safe to fire. Thanks to this forum and those of you who responded.
You can load six, no need for an empty chamber.
Bill
Bill
I second the motion...
...Ben
There are 2 features in a modern (after WWII) S&W revolver that make it safe to have round in the chamber under the hammer. The first is a hump on the bottom of the hammer and a hump the trigger rebound slide. With the trigger and rebound slide home the hump on trigger and slide line up and will not allow the hammer to move forward so that the firing pin (hammer nose) can strike a primer. This has been a feature singe about 1906. The second added after WWII is a little flag like arm that the bottom of ride on a pin on rebound slide and then up in a channel cut in the side plate, when the trigger slide is home the flag portion of the arm is held in between the hammer and frame blocking it from moving forward just in case it should be dropped hard enough that the hammers pivot stud was broken and the double hump system fails. A S&W being dropped on a Naval ship from elevation onto a steel deck causing it to break the hammer stud and fire is supposed to be the reason for the second system hammer block being added.
If the trigger is home on a modern S&W revolver it would take a tremendous blow to make it fire. I mean if you put the gun in a vise and hit the hammer as hard as you could with a 4# hammer I don't think it would fire. You would need to break off the hammer stud in frame and sideplate and smash the hammer block a bunch. Compressing an 1/8" thick piece of cold steel to say 1/32 would take a massive blow.
If the trigger is home on a modern S&W revolver it would take a tremendous blow to make it fire. I mean if you put the gun in a vise and hit the hammer as hard as you could with a 4# hammer I don't think it would fire. You would need to break off the hammer stud in frame and sideplate and smash the hammer block a bunch. Compressing an 1/8" thick piece of cold steel to say 1/32 would take a massive blow.
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Welcome to the world of actual fine firearms !!
Yep! The whole point of the rebounding hammer . . .
