1911 Main Spring Change

another41

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I installed a 22LR conversion to a 1911DK. It shoots good but I'd like to reduce the trigger pull. Will a reduced lb mainspring help. Is reliability affected. The pistol will be used ONLY for informal target shooting.
What are the negatives other than possibly effecting the warranty? Thank, Frank
 
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It depends on what the trigger pull weight is now. Even on a target-only gun, you really don't want it to be less than 2.5 pounds. You don't need a mainspring less than 19 pounds to get to a light pull. The correct way to adjust pull weight is by adjusting the sear and disconnector leaves of the sear spring. Look up Jack Weigand's article in Brownell's Tech Tips to see how.

Buck
 
It depends on what the trigger pull weight is now. Even on a target-only gun, you really don't want it to be less than 2.5 pounds. You don't need a mainspring less than 19 pounds to get to a light pull. The correct way to adjust pull weight is by adjusting the sear and disconnector leaves of the sear spring. Look up Jack Weigand's article in Brownell's Tech Tips to see how.

Buck

Forgot to mention. I bought a 3 piece Kit from Wolf. Was thinking about using the 19. I'll see how the changed spring works out. Any other mods will be professionally done. The trigger as it is does help me to work on my Squeeze. But it could be lightened up a touch. Thanks
 
A 17 # wont hurt

Howdy,
Haggis is correct, however I often go to a 17# with a tweaking of the sear spring and good parts or a light polish.
A good trigger is a combination of things and a lighter main spring will get you a little extra off of the total pull weight.
I have never used a 22 conversion but all my centerfire 1911's have 17# springs in them with no problems.
Good luck
Mike
 
When you reduce the mainspring weight, you will eventually need to increase the recoil spring weight a bit. The combination of the two is what governs how fast the action opens. Since each gun is an individual, adjust the recoil spring based on how far the empties are thrown. I don't know about the .22, but normal ejection for the .45 is 4-6 feet. Much less than that, decrease the recoil spring weight. More than that (say 10-12 feet), increase the recoil spring.

Buck
 
By only changing the MS to 19#(no other changes)....can it create an unsafe condition or damage the pistol. Or would the worse that can happen be a stoppage?
 
wont hurt it

Howdy 41,
It wont hurt it. What Haggis says. You can add to the recoil spring (wont have to for a 19#) You can also add a flat bottom firing pin stop and it will keep it locked up longer untill pressures are down. That will allow you to go lighter on the springs that add to the trigger pull.Heck, I dont even know if the .22's have a firing pin stop?
Anyway, a 19# spring should not make any other changes necessary.
These tips are for guns that I dont carry. They are dependable but I only use them for competition.
Good luck
Mike
 
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I dont even know if the .22's have a firing pin stop?
Good luck
Mike

Thanks Mike.
There is no firing pin stop.....and...... I had a Slam Fire last week. A round did not fully chamber. I pulled and released the slide to chamber the round. It discharged without my finger on the trigger. The round traveled harmlessly and safely downrange.
 
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A stock mainspring, around 23#, only adds an extra .5-1lb to a trigger job (known as sear friction). If your parts are fitted and stoned correctly, a lighter mainspring is a minor difference in trigger pull.

I suggest you have some go over your trigger group, set your sear spring, and leave the mainspring alone. A pull under 3lb is well within reach with a 23lb spring. If you do change the spring, recoil will be more noticeable and sear bounce is more likely.
 
The real question is are you only gonna use this for .22? A DK 1911 is one heck of an expensive unit to be usin for just 22s.

The original design of the 1911 is a system. The mainspring slows the slide through the hammer. Put a lighter spring in and you reduce sear friction, but you also reduce the hammers affect on slowing the slide.

The correct way to do a trigger job is to stone/polish all mating surfaces, put a correct fallaway angle on the sear, and adjust your sear spring for the correct tension. A 2.5lb pull is easily obtainable.

Putting a lighter mainspring in is just a patch that can create other problems.

Theres a good link to a "poor mans trigger job" That should get you what you want. You need a trigger scale to do it.
I'm at work and can't seem to find the link, I'll get it for you tonight.
 
Poor man's trigger job

These are very good directions for a 1911 trigger job. For the most part all you need is a decent set of stones that are below 400g.

The only thing I did'nt see was setting sear spring tension with a trigger pull gauge. With the gun assembeled except for the grip safety, you set the left and center leaf of the spring to 1lb NO LESS, wrap a paper clip around your trigger pull gauge and make a small hook to grab the individual spring leafs. Only pull till the spring just starts to lift off of the sear/disconnect. Lightly bend each spring until 1lb on both leafs is acheived.

When test firing, only load two rounds for a couple mags. If you've done your job correctly you will wind up with a <3lb pull, and no doubling.

And while your at it play around on THIS site.
 
The real question is are you only gonna use this for .22? A DK 1911 is one heck of an expensive unit to be usin for just 22s.
Yes. 22's only. I have other 1911's that I enjoy shooting more than the DK. The DK was sitting & getting dusty. 45 Ammo was impossible to come by for a while....and now it's just too expensive. So rather than leave the DK on the shelf or selling it I'm really enjoying taking it to the range. The trigger is on the heavy side (my opinion) but as I mentioned it is helping my "squeeze" to be more deliberate. I'm looking for a slight noticeable improvement on the action. Otherwise I would get a professional action job.
The pistol is fairly new. Has less than 500 45's through it....and about 500 22's used so far. It sure is a good substitute for my 41. I only shoot informally & recreationally. This is the year of the 22RL (due to the cost of ammo). 22's go a long way. I like to shoot once or twice a week. Firing 22's out of a 1911 is not bad at all.
 
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I received the Spring/Combo pak from Wolff. Installed the 19#.
Went smoothly. I'll report back in a few days.
The first benefit is I'm not get a hernia trying to rack the slide or cock the hammer. We'll see how it goes.
 
I fired about 150 rounds. The only noticeable benefit to the spring change is the ease of slide racking & hammer cocking. But worth it.
Trigger is not substantially better.
 
I'd drop in a 17lb. spring. If all you're shooting is .22s, slide velocity won't be very high or unlocking very quick, so you don't need much mainspring. With .22s and light .45 loads, 1911s are very forgiving with respect to spring balance. If the mainspring is heavy enough to ignite primers, and the recoil spring isn't too heavy for the gun to cycle, you've got lots of margin for error. 17 lb. mainsprings will usually be heavy enough to bust primers reliably.

Spring balance on 1911s is widely misunderstood. As you noted, racking the slide is noticeably easier with the lighter mainspring. The same is true in shooting; heavier mainsprings slow unlocking, thereby reducing slide velocity. I've seen folks put outrageously heavy recoil springs in 1911s to "set them up" for heavy .45s or 10mms, and leave in light mainsprings. Wrong! My Ultra Aegis 9x23s have 25 lb. mainsprings with recoil spring assemblies for standard .45 Ultra Carries. They also have EGW flat-bottom firing pin stops. Slide unlocking is slowed by the heavy mainspring and flat-bottom stop, so heavy recoil springs are unnecessary. The magazine springs are also extra-strength, so the follower can keep up with the slide. With high-quality, properly fit hammers and sears, you can still get good triggers with heavy mainsprings. My Ultra Aegis guns have triggers right at 3.25 lbs.

Using lighter mainsprings to reduce trigger pulls isn't necessarily wrong, but one should realize what else is involved. If the hammer hooks are too long, or the hooks or sear are rough, the new, lighter trigger pull will feel creepy and gritty, and feeding function could suffer. No free lunch.
 
I have a home brew 1911 with a Nowlin trigger group, PROPERLY done stone work, 23lb mainspring. And its right at 2lbs trigger pull.

Spring changes are no replacement for a proper trigger job, period.
 
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