1960 4 Screw Model 28 - Vision Impaired

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I just picked this up today at the local gun show. It is in "really" nice condition - and very hard to find just walking in to a gun show these days.

Only problem is, the rear sight blade is broken - and I don't know where to get a new one.

I included a picture of the broken blade and of the gun.
Where can I get one?

Thanks:)
 

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I don't have my chart info handy but Midway
usually has rear blade kits and ebay sellers usually have several listed. You usually get a kit with the blade and screw and nut when replacing them..
I think Youtube has vids or there is online info on relacing them..
 
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Smith & Wesson did carry them at one time but I think they discontinued them online a few years ago.. You might wanna give them a call!!

BTW, Nice looking Pistol!!
 
The kits are available, usually Midway has them or Brownells. They are tricky to install because of the small parts. It really is easier when you have the right tools, too. Do you know a gunsmith near? They might save you the cost of tools and lost parts. That tiny spring has a way of going airborne into places unknown. Some people work in a plastic bag to prevent the springs and plungers from disappearing.

What dash number is that one?
 
I just bought a blade, screw, and nut from Midway. I think with shipping the whole order was under $24. They come in different heights with the j frame being the shortest (.086" I believe) and then the K frame, and Then the N frame. Measure yours, from bottom of blade to top of blade, or check the compatibility description on the midway website. Don't include the screw hole boss. Watch a youtube video on replacing it. Very straightforward.
 
Very nice OP! First off, there is no shortage of parts, but you need to know the proper height dimension for a 6" 28-2. S&W will give you that if you give them the serial number.

I notice it has diamond grips, so it is at least a 60's gun, assuming the grips are correct. It would be nice to see a pic of the windage adjustment screw. If your gun is early enough the screw will be flat head. Not sure of the cut off year for that After flat came domed head screws. Either will work, but there is period correctness if that interests you. Make sure you have hollow ground screwdrivers for use on that beauty
 
S&W sight height chart:


FsjTZyW.jpg
 
Thanks everyone!

The chart prior to this post confirms that I need a .146 like I thought.

It has a domed adjustment screw - thanks - I never thought about it and do want to keep it period correct. I'm anal that way.

A good friend saw my post and said he has some sight blades.

I ordered the adjustment screw, nut, spring, plunger and tools from Brownells to do the job nicely.

I also watched Brownells video which is different from Midways video. I heard Midways is incorrect.

I was an auto mechanic for 40 years so I think I can master this job on my own:)
 
FWIW, if you get REALLY lucky the nut will back all the way off the end of the windage screw and you won't even have to remove the screw and plunger from the sight body. You can then just keep turning the screw counter-clockwise, while maintaining light pressure on it, and the sight blade will push right out of its channel.

Then reverse the process to use the screw to pull the new one into the channel, put the nut back on, and stake it lightly in place.

That's how it worked out for me anyway. When I bought my 28-2 its rear sight looked just about like yours - only mine had the other side broken off.
 

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FWIW, if you get REALLY lucky the nut will back all the way off the end of the windage screw and you won't even have to remove the screw and plunger from the sight body. You can then just keep turning the screw counter-clockwise, while maintaining light pressure on it, and the sight blade will push right out of its channel.

Then reverse the process to use the screw to pull the new one into the channel, put the nut back on, and stake it lightly in place.

That's how it worked out for me anyway. When I bought my 28-2 its rear sight looked just about like yours - only mine had the other side broken off.

The spring and plunger are located in the head of the screw and have to be removed and placed in the new screw.
 
Ya - I heard, that's why I ordered an extra spring and plunger.

My luck is to have it fly somewhere unknown no matter how careful I am. Murphy's law type thing. So now I'm set just in case.:cool:
 
The spring and plunger are located in the head of the screw and have to be removed and placed in the new screw.

Muley, not to be rude, but please re-read what you quoted from my previous post.

You don't have to take the plunger and spring out of the original screw if you get the nut to come off the screw without breaking it, and you never remove the original screw from the body of the sight.

That is how it worked for me. The nut threaded off the end of the screw without breaking the screw. This allowed me to re-use the original screw without even removing it from the sight.

Like I said, I got lucky.
 
Muley, not to be rude, but please re-read what you quoted from my previous post.

You don't have to take the plunger and spring out of the original screw if you get the nut to come off the screw without breaking it, and you never remove the original screw from the body of the sight.

That is how it worked for me. The nut threaded off the end of the screw without breaking the screw. This allowed me to re-use the original screw without even removing it from the sight.

Like I said, I got lucky.

You still have to thread the original screw into the new blade. Rather than risk losing the spring and plunger while you are doing this, I remove them and put them aside. The tricky part then is compressing the spring and plunger as you place the rear sight blade and screw back into sight body.
 
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