1968 Model 60 - questions and CCW

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Hello, I am new to this board. I recently got ahold of my grandfathers old model 60 in it's original packaging. This was purchased in October of 1968 according to the receipt. I'm not sure if it has ever been shot. I'll link a photo for you all to check out.

After looking a bit through this forum it looks like a Model 60 Chief's Special, chambered in .38 sp with a 2 inch barrel. Please correct me if I am wrong. If you all could share a bit more about this model I would greatly appreciate it. I read a few things about no dash and a pinned barrel but am still trying to figure out where to find more information on the pistol.

I would be interested in learning to shoot and carry this revolver. If you all have any tips or advice for someone new to shooting revolver and this model feel free to add them below. Also, does anyone know if there is a good ccw holster for this gun?

Thanks,
Evil
 

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You can see in the pic it's a pinned barrel. Always a good thing, IMO.

There's boatloads of holsters for Smith J-frames, which yours is. All old geezers will have dozens of holsters they no longer use, so you might be able to score a good one for not a lot of $$$.

Holsters are much like shoes. What fits/works for one may not for another person. Body shape, personal preferences, those sorts of things all factor in which one to get.

Many of us prefer a leather holster for comfort. Kydex (polymer) doesn't conform to the user's body, leather will. It's easier on a blued finish versus kydex as well. Kydex is usually easier to reholster with one hand. Many of us own both, I know I do. LOL!

A decent leather holster will probably run you about $60+. There's some brands costing in the hundreds but those are often exotic leathers like rhino or some such.

Some of the big boy brands are Galco, DeSantis, Kramer & Bianchi. Many of the models overlap each other in features, some are distinctive in features. The internet & gun shows will be your friend here, IMO.

My fav belt holster for outside the waistband (OWB) is Bullard Leather. Their quality far exceeds their price. I have 5-6 of theirs & am happy with all of them.

Hitting several gun shows & taking your pistol is a good way to check for fit, feel, etc. There's strong side carry, crossdraw carry, appendix & small-of-the-back carry methods. I can suggest you avoid the small-of-the-back option as when you sit down, it will be uncomfortable. Makes drawing in a car difficult too.

Most folks will skip the button-down top strap. It greatly slows the draw & one can adjust the friction if it's needed.

You may end up with several different styles of holsters based on your attire as well. For example, a business suit may result in using an ankle holster. Long periods of driving may result in using a shoulder holster, that sort of thing.

Most guns will require a wardrobe adjustment to cover the gun. A J-frame will probably require the least when compared to larger guns. I usually just leave button-up shirts untucked & maybe buy a polo shirt one size larger, that sort of thing.

You'll need some reloads to carry as well. Many shooters use what's called "speed strips". They're rubber, flexible & hold six rounds. But they lie flat in one's front pocket, which is a plus. Most gun shops & shows will sell them.

Lastly, don't buy a nylon Uncle Mike's holster or a Fobus kydex holster. They're cheap & not much good for anything but storing a gun in the safe.

I think I blabbered long enough. :D

Hope this helps.
 
Welcome aboard from ol' Wyo.

Based on the style of the stocks on your grandfather's Model 60, I'd
guess its serial number is between 620xxx and 626xxx (you'll see
it stamped on the butt and handwritten on the box's label).

You should find the same serial number stamped on the inside of
the right stock.

Smith & Wesson introduced the world's first stainless steel handgun
in October 1965: the Model 60. The serial numbers through 1969
were from the original Chiefs (plural, not possessive) Special
series, which began at serial number 1 in 1950.
 
=Thanks for the detailed response. I'll definitely look into trying some leather holsters. I have only ever used a kydex AIWB for my P30 so it will be nice to give something else a try. I think an ankle holster is in my future.
 
Welcome and congratulations to you acquiring a great example of a vintage S&W revolver! Your M60 was the very first commercially produced stainless steel S&W and it appears to be in excellent shape! Add to that the fact that it was your Grandfather's and that makes it even better!

I would suggests finding a knowledgable and trusted "old timer" who is a "dyed in the wool" revolver man to teach you about it. Most younger guys are now semi auto guys even if they do own a revolver or two.

As far as holsters go there used to be a plethora of company's making holsters for it because the M60 / M36 (blued version) was the premier carry gun in its day. There are still many company's producing holsters for it. You might want to start off with a modestly priced, but descent quality DeSantis leather holster to see if the revolver as an EDC is for you. The DeSantis leather holster will not break the bank and for what you would pay, it is descent. Not the best holster made, but more than descent enough to get your feet wet. If you decide to get serious and make this your full time EDC, Kramer Leather Horsehide holster is what I'd recommend - well worth the cost and wait time, but they are much more expensive.

I personally am just not into Kydex holsters but many here are. Nothing at all wrong with them, they are cheap and have good retention, but I personally do not care for plastic holsters - especially on a beautiful vintage revolver!
 
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Welcome to the S&W Forums! That is a very nice looking Model 60. You could certainly use it as a carry gun and most of these were carried and used, which makes NIB and LNIB examples worth a lot more to collectors. Have you considered preserving this beautiful Model 60 and buying a used Model 60 or similar revolver, one that is a shooter grade, not a collector grade piece?
 
I agree with the above post, since it was your grandpa's I wouldn't carry it and keep it in good shape. I can point you to some used J frames and good prices that would be more ideal for ccw.

Also, like Cheif 38 said most younger guys are semi auto guys. I'm the last of a dying breed in that regard, I'm 33 but I actually prefer a revolver. I'll tell you this, if you can learn to shoot a double action well you'll be able to shoot any handgun well. I would take grandpa's model 60 to the range and see how you like it, maybe rent a bigger revolver too because the small ones can be difficult to shoot at first. Unless you start with light wadcutter target loads. The model 60 is all steel so it won't be like shooting an airweight but it's still small and light compared to a K frame like the Model 10 or model 19.

I did see you were considering ankle carry, works well as a back up option but you might find it's not the best in all situations. I ankle carry on occasion but normally only when I'm going to be in the car for a good amount of time. Much easier to get to while seated. Otherwise I like pocket carry for a back up gun much better.

Normally I would say if you decide you like revolvers and really want to carry one I would seriously consider a medium frame (like a K frame) in 357 magnum. The 357 is just a longer 38 with more power. It would allow you to use 38 special and 357 Magnum so you could go up in power as needed. The current production Model 60 is a 357 but I wouldn't reccomend 357 in something that small and light since you're new to revolvers. That would just turn you off of the revolver. Now the Model 66 Combat Magnum (2.75 inch barrel) is perfect for a carry 357. But that would be a belt gun, way too big for the pocket or ankle. A current model 60 would be a good choice but you have to understand the limitations. Something small and light you'd want to carry and shoot 38 special but you could use the 357s in a pinch if you needed to.
 
I will definitely consider preserving the gun, but to be honest learning to shoot it seems like it would be a good time. I'm of the mindset that the challenge of learning a double action would make it all that more enjoyable. I work in education so won't be able to carry often. I am more interested in learning to become proficient in shooting/drawing it. I also checked out some pocket holster options.

My grandfather never picked up shooting as a hobby. He owned a few guns initially during the Newark Riots. Him and all his buddies carried on the job as they responded to calls as firefighters in some rough parts of town. This was a piece he picked up after things settled down a bit, and I guess he never ended up carrying or shooting it.
 
Thanks for the suggestion, I will consider it. How much are these worth in good condition for collectors? I don't think I'd be willing to part with it either way, but it might be good to know if I consider buying something else and keeping this one to maintain.
 
I am more interested in learning to become proficient in shooting/drawing it. I also checked out some pocket holster options.


Find a good class to take. The better instructors are NRA certified, FWIW. Maybe go & watch a USPSA match. Search on-line for a match near you. They're free to attend. Take a lawn chair & some ear & eye protection & you'll have a blast (no pun intended).

Your Model 36 is NOT pocket holster friendly. One, it's an all-steel gun. It'd be like carrying $100 worth of quarters in your pocket. Not my idea of a good time.

Two, the Model 36 has a normal hammer. It'll snag on a pocket lining during the draw. Ditto for a coat pocket carry. It's for this reason the hammerless revolvers were invented. Peruse the S&W web site & look at the wide range of J-frames.

I think you'd be better off as others suggested in putting grand-dad's gun in the safe, well oiled. Then get a Model 442 or 642 for carry. They're hammerless & are much better suited for a coat pocket.

My .o2
 
Thanks for the suggestion, I will consider it. How much are these worth in good condition for collectors? I don't think I'd be willing to part with it either way, but it might be good to know if I consider buying something else and keeping this one to maintain.



If it's unfired AND has the original box, I would think between $800-1K. Values will vary by region in the US as well. Worth more in the South, worth a bit less out West & in the NE.

If you do store it, be sure to remove the grips & oil the steel grip frame underneath. Don't store it in a plastic bag either, it needs to breathe. You can use 3-in-1 oil if you need to, it doesn't have to be specifically gun oil.
 
Thanks for the suggestion, I will consider it. How much are these worth in good condition for collectors? I don't think I'd be willing to part with it either way, but it might be good to know if I consider buying something else and keeping this one to maintain.
It's likely worth somewhere in the $800 to close to $1000 today, but that value is likely to continue to increase if it is preserved. There are plenty of good condition, used J-frames in the market for about half of the value of a NIB example.

Learning to shoot with a J-frame? If you have no experience with shooting handguns, the J-frame would not be my first choice as a learning revolver.
 
I would suggest that you look on YouTube for videos on how to disassemble and clean/lubricate your model 60.The weapon is over fifty years old. It probably has dried up oil. Get a good set of gunsmith screwdrivers so that you won’t bugger up the screw heads is very important.
 
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I agree on pocket carry; ankle carry is by far the most difficult way to carry a handgun. YMMV

They probably make pocket holsters with enough height to keep the hammer from snagging but, considering the age and provenance of your gun, I like the idea of preserving it and getting a J frame with an enclosed or shrouded hammer. Stick to all steel; those lightweight J frames are awful to practice with. You could learn on an all steel J-frame.

iscs-yoda-albums-s-and-w-revolvers-picture18704-model-649-a.jpg
 
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