I've bought a couple of revolvers and shotguns with the same problem and cleaned up several other. In fact, I look for revolvers with that problem to pick up cheap. Can usually pick them up for a decent price. What I've found is people have used WD-40 to clean and lube them, squirting the stuff into the lockwork. The liquid carrier evaporates leaving gunk. Take them apart, clean out the WD-40 gunk, lube and good to go.
1973 Model 66 Problems
- Thread starter Old cop
- Start date
I'm not doubting you but I can only speak from my experiences. My other K frame is a M10 snub, a former service revolver, both have 9 lb. triggers and neither was worked on (altering a city weapon could get you fired). Could there be that much difference in factory stock guns?
charlie sherrill
Member
Our first issue weapons were model 66's back in the early 70's. Before that we bought our own. We went to the range for familiarization training and over half of them had problems. We sent all of them (around 65) back to Smith and they came back repaired and we had no further problems with them. I didn't know much about guns or problems back then and don't remember what the problem was. Same thing happened several years later when we went to 686's but by then we had a range officer who was able to correct the problems. I've got a 686 with a "M" stamped on it but I don't remember if they did this with the repaired 66's.
AZretired
Member
Don't get me wrong or take offense but, you say you are a"Very experienced revolver shooter" yet you are nervous about and had to watch a video about removing the side plate? I started shooting revolvers in 1976 and one of the first things I learned was how to detail strip, clean and lube an S&W revolver.
Learn to take off the side plate, remove the main spring and hammer at the very least. Clean it, lightly lube it and see if your problems continue.
No offense taken. I've been shooting revolvers since '68 but am not mechanically inclined so that's where my reluctance comes from. I'll screw up my courage and dive in. The worst that can happen is I'll have to take the gun to a pro to put it back in working order.
The hammer fall may be slowed by the hammer rubbing the frame, at times? Power Custom Hammer Shims from midwayusa, may be useful? Power Custom Hammer Sideplate Shims S&W K L N-Frame .002 Pack of 10
Better to ask about repairs in the gunsmithing forum.
Better to ask about repairs in the gunsmithing forum.
To test main spring.-
A test for a Smith and Wesson revolver, model 28, 357mag., may work on other guns also<> Gun empty.
Dryfire gun and hold trigger fully to rear.
Cock hammer with thumb.
Hook a weight around the hammer (for example 3 1/2 LB minimum weight for 357).
The hammer must not move rearward when the gun is lifted.
The hammer should lift 3 1/2 lbs without going into the cocked position.
A test for a Smith and Wesson revolver, model 28, 357mag., may work on other guns also<> Gun empty.
Dryfire gun and hold trigger fully to rear.
Cock hammer with thumb.
Hook a weight around the hammer (for example 3 1/2 LB minimum weight for 357).
The hammer must not move rearward when the gun is lifted.
The hammer should lift 3 1/2 lbs without going into the cocked position.
light strikes
I hope this helps.
I just took a gun to Alex Hamilton of 10 Ring Precision yesterday that was getting some miss fires. His conclusion was too much end shake in the cylinder, in other words when the firing pin hits the cartridge the cylinder moves forward cushioning the blow. With the cylinder closed see how much it will move front to back. If that is the problem, they make shims to correct the problem.
I hope this helps.
gunblue490 and Potter MidwayUSA have videos on disassembly of S&W revolver .
Ibmikey
Member
You have a lot of advise to weigh but your problem will be corrected by disassembly, clean each part in solvent, oil lightly ( it needs oil inside the side plate where most all movement occurs) and reassemble. There are tricks to removing the side plate (never pry it) and internal parts if you are not comfortable doing the cleaning have an accomplished person show you how. Keep track of the screw location and put the same one back where it was removed from...very important.. I was fortunate enough to get scheduled for three revolver and two auto courses through the years "so I can keep up with changes" I told the Chief.
Texas Star
US Veteran
I still think cheap reloads are the first thing to consider.
Thanks, the rounds I'm shooting are all factory, in the box, standard pressure loads. I have some +P and .357 I'll try next.
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