1983 Mustang.Too good to scrap.Poor little orphan..

I would keep the Edelbrocks and sell the GT40s. GT40 heads still bring pretty strong prices, and the reduction in weight over the front end will be worth the small difference in selling price. IIRC, they flow a bit better as well.

I contemplated doing that..but I really like iron heads on iron blocks.Ive found the lifespan on head gaskets to me much better with similar materials bolted together.

These (the heads on the 1997 Explorer) are GT40 heads (3 bars on the head casting vs 4 bars for the P heads, which came later)
They don't bring much attention like the aluminum heads will (for resale) especially if I bundle them with the rockers and valve covers. Its all about the "boy racer" factor and old iron heads don't excite buyers.
 
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Explorer engine ready to drop in. I put a new timing chain (Cloyes dual roller) on it as the original had some stretch and for some reason the whole chain kit was only $22 from Orilleys. Must be trying to get rid of old inventory. New Shifter for the T5 and the pile of parts is getting smaller.

One casualty..came in and found this mouse sitting just like you see it in the middle of the shop.Usually they run off..but this one was dead in place! Must have got into some anti-freeze is all I could figure.Oops..

Will put the motor in this week.
 

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While waiting for a new block plate for a T5 setup (goes between the engine and bellhousing)I moved to other things. Seems like they misplaced the original plate (they had nothing between the 260 and the bell!) and I didn't have one in stock for a T5 (uses a 157 tooth flywheel vs 164 tooth)

Carburetor rebuild..I'm going with the Edelbrock 650cfm unit that was in the trunk...it was in excellent shape..considering.All freshened up and ready for action.

I tackled the brakes as well. New hydraulics including the master cylinder. With GO you must have woah! Basicall stock power 10.5" disc up front and 9.5" drums out back.Should slow the 3k.lb car down fine.Resurfaced the rotors and repacked the bearings.Drums turned nicely.Good ole american iron!

I also decided to check what's inside the 8.8 differential. Looks like it is a set of FMS (Ford Motorsports) 3.55 ratio gears on a Traction-lock carrier,so positraction. Everything looks good and all clearances are perfect. Matter of fact..it may be my handiwork from years ago as I set up a lot of them and the punch marks I use on the caps is my style! New cover just to clean things up.

Will tidy the engine bay wiring up and do a little painting. :)
 

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if desired.. I could suggest a new color..
looks good on Mustangs...

Yes, indeed... we had a Grabber Blue '17. My wife liked it. :D

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should look like this when done... lol
a 1989 roller 5.0 with GT40P Heads on top of a 347 stroker with a Tremec 3550 5 speed Edelbrock F4B (Cobra) intake & Holley 600 carb... perfect for my 67 Fastback

Small world. My son just finished installing a new 347 in his '67 Mustang. Yesterday was the first fire-up. That's my '85 Mustang in the background.


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Looks like they also swapped the SROD trans for a T5. Just be careful of 3rd gear... ;)


Those T5's can be stronger than people think. I drag raced my 408/T5 Mustang almost every weekend for 7 years and only broke the transmission about once a year. The real key is never power shift 3rd gear, T5's really hate that.

if desired.. I could suggest a new color..
looks good on Mustangs...


My son would agree with you. This is his car that he completely restored himself including the paint.


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Small world. My son just finished installing a new 347 in his '67 Mustang. Yesterday was the first fire-up. That's my '85 Mustang in the background.


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Is that a Holly Brawler carburetor??




I put one, a 650 cfm double pump with a electric choke on the 410
in my 1976 F-250 and it has performed flawlessly.
 
Is that a Holly Brawler carburetor??

It's a Holley Street Warrior 600 cfm. The same carb he had on the stock 351 that used to be in the car before he built the 347. He could certainly use something bigger on the new engine but it's not a race car so this carb works well.
 
Brakes done.feel good. Handbrake is strong too.

Decided to tackle the fuel system. YUCKO!! Tank is junk. Sending unit too. Too many years dormant with standing fuel. All seals cracked. Because I am using a carburetor I won't be using the in-tank fuel injected high pressure pump..but I'll use the pump pickup bracket setup and run the 15 gallon EFI size. Cheaper too (1/2 price)as they made that tank style for many years to follow. Whole setup for under $200.

Motor is in but..that HEI distributor may be too tall. Hmm. May need to add a subtle bump to the hood. No matter. I've got one around here somewhere. Came off an old 70 Mach 1.

Motor in. Trans too. All fit nicely. Now to tackle pulleys and accessory fitment. Still need a 1 wire alternator.6 groove GM should work.

Once it gets close to moving under its own I'll have to decide about tires and wheels. I do have a nice set of 4 lug Centerline forged Vortex wheels not doing anything. About the same vintage as the car. :)
 

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Yep. GM made them fit in the back of the engine but Ford used a flat style setup. I'll work around it as I like centrifugal and vacuum advance and the HEI system is pretty bullitproof.

So many great aftermarket parts for a GM HEI unit. Someone is making complete Buick 350 and big block HEI units, fresh bodies, with performance coils and modules, with the proper BUICK curve (very different than the other GM ignition aedvance curves) for about $125 shipped. Heck, a Buick NOS distributor drive gear for a BB or a 350, if you could find one, is about $40 by itself.

Pertronix module can be had with a rev limiter built-in too. Do NOT skimp on the module heat sink grease, and carry a spare module in the console or glove box. THe only part that can just fail on a whim.

Glad you rescued it!
 
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I evicted the mice from the heating system and put in a new heater core. The floors were painted and new carpet installed.

Now on to the convt top replacement.
 

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New top operating cylinder on LH and all new hydraulic lines. Goes up and down nicely. New headlights..new wheels and tires.

New pads on the convt frame and all ready for the canvas top.
 

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New top operating cylinder on LH and all new hydraulic lines. Goes up and down nicely. New headlights..new wheels and tires.

New pads on the convt frame and all ready for the canvas top.

Didn't Kar Kraft make those convertibles out of regular Mustangs for Ford?
 
Bought an 84 when I was in college. Paid cash, it was 1 year old with only 12k miles. Drove it for 5 years and sold it for more than I paid for it. Pretty hard to do that nowadays…. Had a 4 speed in it, no mods, but it was a great car.
 

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Nothing like a Mustang ! I have a 2003 Mach1 , 4.10 reared and it's been dyne tuned . I bought it in 2005 , only put 25,00 miles on it , the odometer reads 69,241 miles . I wanted a cobra , but at that time you couldn't find one , so I settled for the Mach . Close to being the same except no super charger , Cobra has the IRS and a few other things .
 
New convertible top fully installed and fits well. New windshield moldings on. Got all the glue off the doors and will apply the new moldings once the correct ones arrive. New lock set going in doors and trunk and lube/adjust the window regulators.
 

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The Mousestang is on its way to its new home in Bosstown. The first potential buyer to see the car paid the asking price ($8k) and is happy as a clam! Saved from the junkyard and I'm sure it will live on in good hands. :)
 

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