22 WMR Bound slide with hammer deployed

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Hey team,
I got myself in a trouble. I was putting in a new moray short stroke trigger on the M&P 22 WMR.
During reassembly of the slide I missed the reat slide alignment to the rail, accidentally pulling the trigger. So the hammer is up position and my slide is bound by misalignment.
I need to somehow return the hammer down to release the slide forward.
Any ideas?
 

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Hey M&P team, I fixed it by using a small screwdriver through the back side, got it wiggled between the slide and the hammer, then held it down and let the slide back.- success.
Don't buy a moray short stroke trigger for year 22 WMR, maybe 5.7 does not have that problem...but They sell triggers that are the same. It is a complete waste of time- the fit and function is incorrect. Gallaway precision makes the trigger. It's just a 3D printed fiber carbon.
Stick with your OEM! Unless Apex ever comes up with a trigger for the internal hammer fired line.

Regards, & God bless
 
I didn't have too much of an issue other than the moray being sort of "sticky" as in inconsistent trigger pull weight. some felt good (using made up numbers) it seemed some were like original 4lbs or so and others 6 or 7. I took it back off and used real fine sanding paper to smooth both sides and wow, simply loving it. I will say that I did have an issue with slide locked up during reassembly after first putting the trigger in but that was entirely my fault not paying attention. It would be nice if they had maybe a mid way guide to keep it from going a touch too high when getting closer to the back.
 
I've installed GP triggers in two full sized M&Ps and two Shield Plus frames (stripped frames bought and built up with Shield internals).

Neither trigger works without a lot of fitting, material removal and putting them in, trying them, pulling them out and removing material in another spot.

Once you've got all the material removed in the right places they seem to work fine.

Do not expect "drop in" like you get with the Apex Tactical triggers/kits.

The material removed for proper function was similar in places and different in others. The biggest difference was the Shield triggers would not go on the trigger pins without the holes being opened up with the right sized drill bit. And on one the trigger safety blade would hang up in the rear position till I removed it and sanded some material off the side of it/bottom of it.

Would I buy more of them? Yeah, now that I know what to expect $28 is hard to beat for a straight faced trigger. You've just got to have some patience and ability to figure out where it's dragging at and how best to removed the material (I used sandpaper on some places, a drill bit on others, a file on others and an old xacto knife on other spots). Lots of interference in some spots on different frames/internals.
 

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