Botched trigger job help
- Thread starter Jwinks707
- Start date
S&W revolverman
Member
Two things to check before you send it off.
If you've had the hand off of the trigger to stone it (which I wouldn't do anyway), does the hand have spring tension on it? i.e. when you move the hand while it is installed on the trigger, does it spring back and forth, or is it just loose? If no spring tension, then the hand has to be put back under the little hand spring within the trigger. Easy to do but hard to explain.
Second, check to see of the hand pins are not bent. If not straight, this could be a problem as well. If not straight, easily straighten them back to perpendicular. I say easy, cause you could break one of them off, especially the littler one.
Good luck
If you've had the hand off of the trigger to stone it (which I wouldn't do anyway), does the hand have spring tension on it? i.e. when you move the hand while it is installed on the trigger, does it spring back and forth, or is it just loose? If no spring tension, then the hand has to be put back under the little hand spring within the trigger. Easy to do but hard to explain.
Second, check to see of the hand pins are not bent. If not straight, this could be a problem as well. If not straight, easily straighten them back to perpendicular. I say easy, cause you could break one of them off, especially the littler one.
Good luck
I dropped my pistol off yesterday but I did perform similar checks before I dropped it off. During the stoning process I stoned the outboard side of the hand assembly. In the moment I did it because Jerry did it in the video but after everything was said and done I don’t think I needed too. I did have to reinstall the spring and I thought I installed it correctly. In my opinion it could only go in one way, right? I told Craig that when I talked to him and he had a big grin and said I still need to be careful. I did not check for bent hand pins. I would feel good if that is what the problem was, it seems like an easy fix.
This was a learning experience. At first I felt like I was going crazy when people on this forum were saying to never cycle the trigger with the side plate off and tension on the mainspring. I verified Jerry did it in his video, which is the only reason I did it. I am not Jerry and I should have recognized this prior to starting the project.
The more I think about the theory of operation of a revolver the more comfortable I am becoming with talking about it. Pretty cool stuff. I will definitely be more careful in the future. I also have no problem with Craig looking at my gun to make sure I did nothing unsafe. I look forward to getting it back.
This was a learning experience. At first I felt like I was going crazy when people on this forum were saying to never cycle the trigger with the side plate off and tension on the mainspring. I verified Jerry did it in his video, which is the only reason I did it. I am not Jerry and I should have recognized this prior to starting the project.
The more I think about the theory of operation of a revolver the more comfortable I am becoming with talking about it. Pretty cool stuff. I will definitely be more careful in the future. I also have no problem with Craig looking at my gun to make sure I did nothing unsafe. I look forward to getting it back.
kev74
Member
Sounds like your revolver is in good hands.
I'm looking forward to the after-action report. i don't think you did as much damage as you think.
I'm looking forward to the after-action report. i don't think you did as much damage as you think.
shil
Member
My intention is not to be critical of the efforts of others or to be a smarta**, but if it's not broken, don't fix it. Years ago, I "fixed" a grand old Winchester 1894. I followed the instructions I had at hand and disassembled the action to clean and lube it, "just because". Of course, after I reassembled, it would not work properly. It was off to the gunsmith whimpering and carrying a large helping of humble pie. He made it right. Yes, I confessed.
Removing access material from the hand throughs off the timing. Larry Potterfield from midway has some great videos on it. Buy a replacement.
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=larry+potterfield+smith+wesson+timing+
I just reread your post. Order a new rebound slide.. You can polish the sides that ride on the frame with a polishing paste but do not use sandpaper or anything else abrasive. Toothpaste and a cotton shirt work well.
Also, have you tried reinstalling the factory slide spring?
Please point out the areas that you removed material from. Google smith wesson revolver nomenclature if my pic won’t enlarge
Also, have you tried reinstalling the factory slide spring?
Please point out the areas that you removed material from. Google smith wesson revolver nomenclature if my pic won’t enlarge
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One thing you don't want to do is try and stone or file the ratchets unless you have had proper training. I've been doing my own work for over 50 years on S&W's and I won't touch a ratchet. When you do the stoning as in Jerry's video, remember "You don't remove any metal, just smooth off any burrs. And, the strain screw will ALWAYS be "tight". Some will remove a little from the tip of the screw, but only a couple thousandths at a time, and try and keep the pull at 9 lbs or more.
Hopefully the gunsmith will let you know exactly what was needed to fix it.
Hopefully the gunsmith will let you know exactly what was needed to fix it.
Delta Rose
Member
So, inquiring minds want to know, did Craig get it fixed for you?
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Without knowing exactly how much metal you removed and where, I'm gonna keep outta advising on this one - lol. Can't see and feel so I won't recommend anything. I hope you get it straightened out without going for an arm and a leg.
Smoothing out a revolver really involves understanding all the interactions of the parts and just which ones might need attention (if any). I would encourage you to not only get Jerry Kuhnhausen's S&W shop manual, but truly study the parts interacting, proper spec's and tolerances and truly understand what not to touch. I truly hope you use this experience to become a really good home Gunsmith. Messing up is just part of the learning curve and while it might cost you a few bucks to remedy, I think it will make you a better ammeter GS. Let us know how you make out.
Smoothing out a revolver really involves understanding all the interactions of the parts and just which ones might need attention (if any). I would encourage you to not only get Jerry Kuhnhausen's S&W shop manual, but truly study the parts interacting, proper spec's and tolerances and truly understand what not to touch. I truly hope you use this experience to become a really good home Gunsmith. Messing up is just part of the learning curve and while it might cost you a few bucks to remedy, I think it will make you a better ammeter GS. Let us know how you make out.
I wanted to give everyone an update. I picked up my revolver this afternoon from Maraviov Gunsmithing in Woodland. I could not be happier with my revolver.
Craig said he had to straighten out the arm assembly as well as clean up the ratchet surfaces. I was definitely the one who bent the arm assembly but he was saying the ratchet surfaces were rough from the factory. Not only did he correct the binding in the trigger pull but he stoned the sear engagement for the double action trigger pull. He charged me $85 which I thought was really fair.
When my revolver was new out of the box the hammer rubbed against the frame during the initial DA trigger pull. Now it rides strait back with no rubbing. I have not gone shooting yet but will try to get out to a range next week. Thank you to everyone who shared their knowledge about revolvers with me. It was much appreciated.
I tried attaching a pic. Hopefully it worked
Craig said he had to straighten out the arm assembly as well as clean up the ratchet surfaces. I was definitely the one who bent the arm assembly but he was saying the ratchet surfaces were rough from the factory. Not only did he correct the binding in the trigger pull but he stoned the sear engagement for the double action trigger pull. He charged me $85 which I thought was really fair.
When my revolver was new out of the box the hammer rubbed against the frame during the initial DA trigger pull. Now it rides strait back with no rubbing. I have not gone shooting yet but will try to get out to a range next week. Thank you to everyone who shared their knowledge about revolvers with me. It was much appreciated.
I tried attaching a pic. Hopefully it worked
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That’s a great looking revolver.
Tanners Owner
US Veteran
Congrats, sounds like it was $85 well spent
