.223 for the AR

[H Richard]

While I'm far from new in reloading (30+ years) I had never loaded for a semi-auto rifle. I always liked walnut and blue steel and a bolt action. I broke down and bought an AR last spring for a SHTF and because I seemed to be the only person who didn't have one. I put glass on it and have shot it a time or two and have been accumulating my supply of ammo for it.

A buddy gave me 500 rounds of brass, so today I picked up a set of dies and started to reload. I did buy small base dies. I looked through a couple of my newer loading manuals, and looked at my powder supply. I found the Lyman manual indicated Varget as most accurate powder for the 55 gr. bullet. I have plenty of Varget on hand, and quite a few 55 gr Midway Dogtown HP bullets. (Look like speer) I prepped the brass, and set up the dies, and threw 26.5 gr. of Varget, as it was about half way between start and max loading. Should give around 3200 fps. Since this is a gas operated gun, should this give correct pressure for the action to function reliably? I just made up 10 rounds to try out when I get to the range (soon I hope).

Does this sound like it's on the right track, or do any of you recommend a better load. I was looking at CFE also, but heard some say it didn't preform as well unless using magnum primers. For my purposes it probably won't make much difference. (Unless the SHTF does happen and it needs be put into use).

 

[Just another 22 shooter]

I have used Varget for years in my 223 loads for my AR. I usually load 65-69 gr bullets with it, but have used 55 grain bullets as well. All the loads I used functioned my rifle perfectly. No hiccups at all. I also use CFE223 and have no complaints against it. I use Rem 7 1/2 primers with both powders.

 

[OldChief]

I get excellent results with 26.6 grains of Varget pushing a 55 grain Hornady V Max. When I load a 55 grain FMJ I like to use 25.3 grains of
H335, works like a charm in my S&W M&P15 Sport. I get good results with the Varget load in this rifle but get much better accuracy through a Mod 1885 Browning Low Wall.

 

[ageingstudent]

I have used some Varget and like the performance, but it doesn't meter well for me. I've been using AR Comp lately and my Ruger AR5.56 seems to like a middle load of it with 55gr fmjbt. I have several other work ups with ball powders sitting here but my boss is trying to work me to death lately no time to shoot. I lucked out with the dies I guess. I already had a set of standard size RCBS dies and the ammo seems to be sized perfect for my Ruger. Haven't had a hiccup yet.

 

[muddocktor]

I've never used Varget, but I've used IMR3031, IMR4198, Accurate 2230, 2460 and LT-32 in 223 with good accuracy out of all of them. The Dogtown bullets you are loading are actually manufactured by Nosler and are also sold by Midsouth Shooters Supply under the Varmint Nightmare name. And Accurate actually has data for their powders using the Varmint Nightmare bullets for loading data off of their website.

All the Accurate powders meter very well. Of course the IMR powders, being stick powders don't meter well at all.

 

[Dennis]

Varget is good stuff. But double-check your charges. I drop froma Redding, but check on my old 505. Then adjust.
Varget was one of the first that was not temp-sensitive . Good stuff if you shoot in different temps thruout the year.

 

[scooter123]

Varget is an excellent powder for accuracy, however because it meters so poorly I keep some tweezers next to my scale so I can adjust the charge weight of every charge thrown. BTW, one granule of Varget weighs approximately 0.025 grain.

As for having the correct level of "gas" to operate your rifle, unless the rifle is equipped with an adjustable gas block that has been correctly adjusted you don't have to worry about having enough gas to operate the rifle. Because every single AR15 made by any manufacturer will be "overgassed" with a minimum charge weight and a mid range means even more gas. BTW, I've used an adjustable gas block on every one of my AR's because they not only shoot cleaner with the gas supply limited to just what is needed it also softens the recoil impulse a bit.

 

[Coastie762]

To echo those above, Varget is a great powder for accuracy loads in .223. I use it with 69 gr HPBTs in my ARs and a custom-barreled Rem 700.

For bulk loadings you may be better served with a ball/spherical type powder such as H335, TAC, CFE or similar as they will meter much better.

To function check your loads, I would suggest loading one round with the powder charge you want to start with. Shoot that through your rifle (with the magazine inserted) and see if the bolt locks back on the empty mag. That will verify whether or not your load has sufficient power to cycle the action. You can then work up from there to your desired power/accuracy level.

One other thing, many if not most .223/5.56 cases now days use crimped in primers. Prior to reloading them for the first time this crimp must be removed by cutting or swaging. There are a number of tools out there to perform this task and it only has to be done once.

 

[WR Moore]

OK, several items:

1. Salesmanship aside, small base dies are really intended for bolt guns with minimum headspace and tight chambers. (Read the instructions with most of the new small base dies.) They may be of some use with lever guns, but for semi-autos, they simply overwork the brass and reduce case life. Normal dies are just fine for semi-autos-the force used to seat the loaded cartridge is generally under-rated.

2. Watch your cartridge trim length, it's really important for uniform crimps and you really do, need to crimp bullets in a semi-auto rifle. Especially if it's a carbine, the feed cycle in the M-forgeries is very violent. Don't obsess if your bullet doesn't have a crimp groove/cannelure. The entry into the rifling will iron out that alleged defect. Bullet setback raises pressures much faster than seating into the rifling.

3. If you check your loading manual, you'll note that most of the data is developed in bolt guns with 24-26 inch barrels. The velocities you get in 16-20 inch gas guns isn't going to match that. I've found either of the 4198s (IMR or Hogdon) to do extremely well in .223 with 55-60 grain bullets. Above that weight, you need to look at other powders.

 

[H Richard]

Thanks to all, I'm very familiar with Varget from loading my custom barreled Rem 22-250. I'm not loading on my Dillon, but on a single stage press, so dropping the powder isn't a problem as I weigh every charge. (Yeah, its slow but I like to know exactly what my loads can do). 1st 10 rounds are loaded, now just need the time to get to the range for the test.

 

[fredj338]

Should be fine in a stock AR. They will cycle with near starting loads. I am not a Varget fan for 223 because I load on a progressive, but it is really accurate with heavier bullets. I prefer AA2520, a ball powder that seems as accurate as Varget. Other good choices are CFE & TAC.

 

[DWalt]

Lots of propellants will work OK with the .223. I use only IMR 4198 and AA 2230. Never tried Varget, but no reason for me to do so. My best grouping is with 22 grains of 4198 and 50-55 grain bullets. Keep those cases trimmed. You probably do not need small base dies. I don't.

 

[jimbo728]

Im getting excellent results with IMR 4895 with 55gr Hornady FMJ & with 69gr Sierra Match King bullets.
Shooting a 1 in 8 Sport, MOA and a Savage, 1 in 9 22" bbl. sub MOA.
It was what I had on hand from my .30 Cal days when I recently came home to loading .223 after not doing them for many moons.
Jim

 

[foxeye]

I load all my .224 cal rounds with Winchester 748 ball. Good tight groups and works,fine.,

 

[H Richard]

I got a chance to get to the range yesterday, and I was pleased that my handloads grouped better than the Federal 55 gr. ball I have bought because it was not as expensive. The trigger in the DPMS (stock) needs a little help, but I was able to make consistent head shots (FBI center mass target) at 100 yards without any problem. I'm just building up a supply for the possibility of a SHTF situation.

 

[4barrel]

Varget & 748 shot the same @ 200 yards in my 1 in 8 twist 20 inch Bushmaster bull barrel. It liked 53--55 grain Spitzer type better than 69s for some reason. My Browning A bolt hunting rifle will do 2 inches or better at 200 yards with a good bullet but not with FMJ ball ammo.

 

[Ballistic147]

I've done all my 223/5.56 reloads on a Progressive using CFE223. Shooting from a sand bag with iron sights my stuff has been at least as good if not better than the all the different factory ammo that's been run through it. I would like to try Varget but all the info says it doesn't meter well. The CFE meters excellent.

 

[H Richard]

I find Varget will meter within 2/10 of a grain, but when you figure that is 2/10 over and under that is 4/10 or near a half a grain. Using a mid range load that wouldn't be any worry, but it make sense for accuracy. The progressive needs a powder that will meter +/- 1/10 of a grain. I actually hand weigh every round, and trickle it to an exact measurement. I'm retired and have time to spend.

 

[bigedp51]

OK, several items:

1. Salesmanship aside, small base dies are really intended for bolt guns with minimum headspace and tight chambers. (Read the instructions with most of the new small base dies.) They may be of some use with lever guns, but for semi-autos, they simply overwork the brass and reduce case life. Normal dies are just fine for semi-autos-the force used to seat the loaded cartridge is generally under-rated.

I buy a lot of once fired Lake City 5.56 brass and it is sized the first time with a RCBS AR Series Small Base Die.

I have seven different type and make .223/5.56 dies, full length, neck dies, bushing dies, etc. And I'm loading for three different AR15s and a bolt action .223 Savage.

I have a standard Lee full length .223 die that reduces the case diameter "MORE" than any of my small base dies and will bump the shoulder back .009.

We live in a plus and minus manufacturing world and dies and chambers vary in diameter and length. And you can not make a blanket statement that you did about small base dies above.

Any full length resized case should be .003 to .005 smaller in diameter than its fired diameter to allow for brass spring back. And shoulder bump varies between .001 to .006 depending on the type rifle.

My RCBS small base die only makes the case .0005 smaller in diameter than my standard .223 full length die. My Redding small base die makes the case .001 smaller in diameter than the RCBS standard .223 die.

All of my blasting ammo that will be fired in any of the three AR15s is resized with my RCBS AR Series Small base die.

The ammo fired in my AR15 A2 HBAR is sized with a standard Forster full length benchrest die.

Bottom line, start with a standard die and if needed then buy a small base die. But make your decision after measuring the fired diameter of your cases vs the resized diameter. We live in a plus and minus manufacturing world and you never know when you end up with a skinny chamber and a fat die. Or a fat chamber and a skinny die that does over work the brass.

Never say never.

 

[scooter123]

Concerning CFE223 it does meter very well and can produce an accurate load with the correct bullet. I have a home built AR I built with a 20 inch Shilen barrel and with either a 68 grain Hornady HPBT or a 60 grain Nosler Ballistic tip loads using Varget are easily sub 1/2 MOA. Using CFE223 the 68 grain Hornady groups so close to the Varget load I really can't say they are specifically different because it could be simply a matter of how well I shot. But my hunch is that the CFE loses between 1/16 to 1/8 inch at 100 yards compared to the Varget load.

With the Nosler Ballistic tip is a totally different ball game. Why I do not know but CFE223 just won't produce at accurate load with this bullet. I have tried every single potential weight at 1/10 grain increments between the minimum and maximum listed loads and best group was 3 inches and the worst group exceeded the size of the 10x10 target sheet. In fact most groups shot looked like they were shotgun loads. BTW, did not see any hint of key holing, just really awful accuracy.

Point is CFE223 is a good choice for loading with a progressive but you may have to do some testing to determine what bullets work well with this powder. I'll also note that CFE223 does leave a rather oily feeling black residue on the bolt and the receiver. IMO that particular aspect is probably a result of whatever they use in this powder to reduce copper from building up in the barrel. I'll also note that copper eliminator actually does reduce the copper buildup in the barrel.