22LR cases sticking!

When I have this problem with my 617s & 63, I clean thoroughly using a NEW brass brush. When the patches are coming out clean, I run some lead-away patches through (cut to the size of 22 patches), let set for a few minutes, then run more cotton patches through. Works wonders. I'm always amazed at how much additional lead the lead-away patches will remove.

This is what I've learned to do with mine. The lead wipe away cloths will clean out gook I/you never knew was there. No power tools, just a small patch, slotted tip, and a cleaning rod.

Follow up with a clean patch/dry patch with your favorite solvent. Repeat if necessary.
 
I've had the same problem with Aguila "Super Extra" 40 gr CPRN 1255fps spent brass sticking in my S&W 43C. I've had to bang on the ejection rod to get the brass out sometimes, they were stuck so tight.

Seems like high velocity brands that are closer to 1200fps work better.
Standard velocity even better.

But Aguila is the worst offender for spent brass sticking in my 43C.
 
My 317 can get a little sticky after 100 rounds or so, but a good cleaning usually sorts it out.
But just thinking out loud...has anyone ever tried spraying the chambers with PAM or some kind of Teflon or silicone spray?
 
My 317 can get a little sticky after 100 rounds or so, but a good cleaning usually sorts it out.
But just thinking out loud...has anyone ever tried spraying the chambers with PAM or some kind of Teflon or silicone spray?

As a general rule lube in the chambers makes the sticking worse not better. Chambers should be completely dry of oil or solvent for best results
 
I did have one .22 round not eject from my Winchester pump rifle.

It was the American, 38 gr, CHP ammo.
I am thinking the rim was a little under sizes, for it to eject.

Nice tight group, but had to manually pull it, from the rifle.
 
In my experience, .22s from the 1950s and on into
maybe the early 1970s the manufacturers used a
slightly thicker casing, less expansion.

But by making the cases thinner, less expensive to
produce, they expand a little or a lot depending on
the chambers and gun to gun.

May not be true, but this is what I believe.

This is what I still believe although I
have stopped shooting .22 altogether.
 
I've experienced this on every S&W .22 LR revolver I've ever had.

I removed and cleaned the cylinders the best I could. Then sprayed the cylinder with Brake parts cleaners and let it evaporate.

Then I used a new .22 cleaning mop mounted on a and applied Semichrome paste to the mop and ran the mop in and out several times slowly through all charging holes at low rpm.

Made a couple passes and then rinsed the cylinder well with the BPC and cleaned thoroughly with standard solvent brushing and oiling.

After that the cylinder loaded and ejected much easier.
 
I must have lucked out. The only S&W .22 I've owned doesn't have this problem. It's a gem. 1952 or 3 CM
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So I was shooting a buddies 43c and my 63 snub. After only 2-3 cylinders the cases became impossible to eject . Any solutions to stop this ? I guess polishing the cylinder throats? I don't know! Any help would be appreciated.

Buy a Korth, this problem never happens with them in .22.
 
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Keep cylinders dry. Oil can make a hydraulic effect. And before any reaming I would try a bunch of different ammo. My 17 hated some, others ejected like 007s car seat.
 
Earlier this year, I ordered directly from Mason Precision their 22 cylinder reamer and received in less than a week. To date, I have reamed the charge holes on my 22/32 Target model and 17-3. After reaming, both are a joy to shoot. Ammo is effortlessly loaded and emptied easily extracted. Interestingly, my K-22 shipped in 1953 did not require reaming.

I have lent the reamer to two other shooters for reaming of a k-22 and a Model 17 and they are equally pleased with the results. I highly recommend the Mason Precision reamer.
 
I'm glad I'm on pg 2 so I won't catch as much heck for my post. :)
I cut off a cleaning rod for a 22 rifle at about a foot.
I put a brush on the rod and chuck it up in an old battery powered drill.
When the cylinder gets sticky I run the high speed cleaning rod though all 6 and reload.

Fixed the problem.
 

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