25-2 possible project thoughts? **shooting post added**

So the gun is a victim of the recent hurricanes?? Sea Water is incredibly destructive,, salt sucks for guns

Yes here in Florida we have wast called "snowbirds" Florida summers are brutal and hurricanes are no fun story i got is the previous owner had this under his bed in a foot locker house flooded he came home weeks later and found a a few guns in this shape this is all that remains... I pick her up tomorrow I'll post some detailed photos when I get her home
 
I'd buy that all day. Round butt it, chop it to 2.5" and cut it for moons.

It is a Model 25-2. Already cut for moonclips at the factory.

The barrel and cylinder appear the worst. Not hard to find those, not cheap, but not hard to find. The frame is in good shape from the images. I would grab it and install a new barrel and cylinder. Maybe make it a 4” Model 1950!

Kevin
 
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The grips might be the most troublesome parts in the long run if they absorbed salt water. Otherwise, no special worries! (I'd probably pull the barrel and give the threaded area a good soaking.) Use with the cosmetic flaws or go wild. I have a Model 58 with worse pitting than the OP's on one side that shoots much better than my "pretty" 58. Can't see the ugly spots at all whilst looking at the front sight....
 
I'd snag it too. Not sure, but I think 4"; XS or other high visibility sights; K frame RB grips; consider hard chrome. If you have to replace the barrel or cylinder, don't worry about the finish - hard chrome looks good on stainless too. You could run wild and make something the factory never did.
 
Pretty clean inside not the worst I've seen missing the cylinder release return spring I may have one of thoes hiding somewhere if not off to ebay

Let me know what yall think.
 

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Erocksmash, carelesslove, here !

If I remember correctly, we've done some S&W parts swapping / selling, before !

By all means - get that 25-2 ! Don't sweat the rust, as none of us are perfect anyways!

I have a relatively rust-free 25-2, and I shoot that thang ! You can save yourself a lot of effort (not to mention the bullets, powder, and primers) by measuring your cylinder throats. Mine are a uniform 0.4555" - way too big for lead bullet accuracy, with 0.451" bullets. Hardball, or jacketed bullets still shoot OK.

If tack-driving accuracy is required, get yourself some 0.454", or larger lead bullets and tight groups can be easily achieved ! Send me a PM, if you are interested, and I'll give you my recipe !

I also have a very old TripleLock, with a barrel & cylinder that are as rough as a cob", from rust - but, it still shoots very well, when the bullets are sized to fit the throats.

Good luck - let us know how the project goes !

Tom "carelesslove" Love
 
I admit some biases/preferences based on when I got into shooting and more specifically LE handguns. It was the late 70s, so revolvers ruled. A few rebels advocated the 1911 in .45ACP. A hot .357 was considered the top of the pile, but the training needed to be proficient was hard on guns and shooters, and the changing physical standards meant that apes like me were not the only folks hired. I remember and may still have an article by John Bowman of UIUC Police Training Institute about the female officer who could not shoot with her issued M66, but did great with a 1911. Her command did not respond gratefully to the concept.

The .41 in SWC was a good performer, as were other .4+ rounds if loaded in a decent shape (lead SWC; HPs). HP technology was ... primitive. The drawbacks of ball ammo were somewhat known and discussed. The understanding of tactical anatomy (where on humans to hit) and ballistics (handgun rounds are sub-optimal; long guns are your friends) were poor. Some folks were converting M28s to bigger bores (Skelton and the .44 Special for example).

Thus, my dream duty gun of the time was something like what I suggested above: 4" .45 ACP conversion, good sights, etc. For a revolver fan, a pretty dood choice. Take a look at some of the posts a few years ago by member "Nyeti" that report on his experiences working in rough places, where he and his squad mates carried 4" 25-5s. I have seen more detailed versions of those reports in other settings. IMHO, he knows of what he speaks.

I am looking forward to the evolution of this project, maybe in the Smithing forum.
 
I have a 25-2. I got it about 1974or 75. I absolutely love that gun. I would have bought the one you bought for $200.00 as soon as I saw it. If it was mine, I would call the factory and see what they would charge to refinish it.
I have several .45 Autos. I reload for them on a Dillon press. I use the same load in all of them. When I run a bunch of .45 ACP, I change out the shell plate and then run .45 Auto Rim. I got a bunch .45 Auto Rim brass many years ago. I do not load it "hot" I have no idea how many times it has been loaded and I think the brass will probably outlive me. My gun will work with or without the moon clips. I have found that the .45 Auto Rim is the easiest way to shoot it. But if I was using it for defense or completion, I would use the moon clips. I think you did very well with that purchase. Good luck and enjoy a fine pistol.
 
As previously mentioned, salt water and wood are not a good mix when it comes to firearm stocks. The water evaporates from the wood, but leaves the salt. The salt will attract moisture and hold it to the metal, causing rust.
 
I have a cutdown 25-2 that was done by an unknown but very skilled gunsmith it is one of my absolute favorites one of those I will never never ever sell yours is a prime candidate for a conversion but if you like it and as you have shown it’s a shooter as most are enjoy it and shoot the piss out of it congrats they are great guns
 
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