3 day old SD40VE...need some opinions

clenceo

Member
Joined
Dec 25, 2013
Messages
62
Reaction score
29
Picked up my SD40VE 3 days ago. Its a California variant :-(

I was able to get 50 rounds through it with no problems at all.

I've done the following:
--Galloway 22lb stainless guide rod
--M&P rear sight (Part# 395090000, in case someone needs the number)
--Apex Trigger
--Polished sear, trigger bar and firing pin face

What I think can be improved is the grip. Attached is some pics of an M&P Medium grip that I thinned out a bit. Now to attach it the the dilemma. Suggestions here would be great. I was thinking just to wrap an inner tube to hold in place with a few dabs of epoxy. I have fairly large hands, I use the large grip on my M&P and it still feels small.

As for the sear...I added a small shim to the bottom portion of the sear, it seems to have reduced the trigger pull and the reset length dramatically. Any thoughts or heard of an aftermarket sear to reduce trigger pull/reset length?

The one thing I hate...is the blank billboard on the right side of the pistol, magazine safety and loaded chamber indicator at the top.

I'm very happy with this little pistol! I'm sure happy to have purchased it!








[/IMG]
 
Register to hide this ad
Congrats on the new gun!

Didn't the Apex trigger shorten up the pull and reset? I only have the Apex spring kit in my SD9 which made the trigger pull a lot nicer but I'm not looking to shorten up the pull on a carry gun.
 
The one thing I hate...is the blank billboard on the right side of the pistol, magazine safety and loaded chamber indicator at the top.

Have you seen the The Apex Low Profile LCI

What It Does
The Apex Low Profile LCI is a direct replacement for the factory loaded chamber indicator with no letters or paint. Serves as a tactile loaded chamber indicator for those who don't want their sight picture interrupted by the loaded chamber indicator. This product is precision machined and Melonite finished.

Expected Results
– No interruption of the sight picture
– Low profile tactile feedback confirmation of a loaded chamber, even in no light situations
 
I have the California version as well. The only thing I don't like is the strange take down method.
 
CA take down

I have the California version as well. The only thing I don't like is the strange take down method.

It only takes about 10 more seconds to depress the magazine feeler lever. How often do you take your slide off?

As others, and I, have posted, a query to S&W about forgetting that step, returns a message something like, "It's strong and won't do any harm to the gun."

I still haven't been able to learn why that step is indicated. If you look at what may come into contact with the slide when removing or replacing it, there is no significant difference. I still follow the procedure in the owners manual, but don't know why it's supposed to be done.

Maybe someone will have an answer. S&W doesn't seem to know.
 
It only takes about 10 more seconds to depress the magazine feeler lever. How often do you take your slide off?

As others, and I, have posted, a query to S&W about forgetting that step, returns a message something like, "It's strong and won't do any harm to the gun."

I still haven't been able to learn why that step is indicated. If you look at what may come into contact with the slide when removing or replacing it, there is no significant difference. I still follow the procedure in the owners manual, but don't know why it's supposed to be done.

Maybe someone will have an answer. S&W doesn't seem to know.

It's a bit Rugerish for me but this is California, so if it's weird it fits:-)
 
Find a large piece of rubber shrinkwrap tubing (see an electrical supplier). Slip it over the whole thing and shrink it in place.
 
Well, this thread seems to have split into two topics, takedown and grips.

Regarding takedown of the CA version, I posted a question asking whether anyone has ever got a clear answer from S&W as to why the magazine sensor needs to be down when the slide is removed.

Anyone have the answer?
 
I put a Hogue Handall on my SW40v Sigma, and I like it. It adds a swell (thickness) to the grips that most other slip-ons don't have. Could be useful for large hands. OTOH, I have, I think, a modified Pachmayr slip-on on my 9mm Sigma, and it's great, too.

To be brutally honest, I think epoxying grips to a polymer frame is a loser. When a gun is 3 days old, we think we'll never get rid of it, but when it's 3 years old...well...

No matter...if you glue grips on it, nobody will ever buy it from you. Makes it very unmarketable.
 
I bought the Pachmayr 05166 Slip On Grip for S&W Sigma & SW9VE and like it a lot, only about $11.00 and can take it off easily
 

Attachments

  • DSCN1192.jpg
    DSCN1192.jpg
    136.7 KB · Views: 31
Here's the solution to fatten up my grip and without making it permanent using a bicycle inner tube. Holds up very well and fits in my hand perfectly!!

 
Last edited:
Yeah, I don't think your grip proposal is the best idea. At least not as a 1st option. Try the Hogue or the Pachmayr slip-ons before you do any 'permanent' modification. Thats usually a bad idea.
 
Try the Hogue Handall. It works excellent and is cheap and non-permanent.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0312.JPG
    IMG_0312.JPG
    120.1 KB · Views: 34
I've had the opportunity to try some of the Hogue Grips. Unfortunately I need a grip with more of a palm swell so that if fits comfortable in my hand. The set up I created is working wonderfully for me.

Thanks for the heads up!
 
I have the SW40VE and on a whim, I tried it in my Blackhawk Serpa retention holster that I have for my full size M&P 357 Sig and it fit, and the retention worked. Wasn't as lucky with the Nate Squared pro as the trigger guards are different. It will fit, but the retention doesn't work.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top