.32 double action 4th model question

[Jebus35745]

Bought one from GB and the action was described as mechanically, it functions perfectly. I sent an email asking for sure the timing is good and the answer was yes. The gun will be shipped back tomorrow, the timing is off on each cyl hole when cycled slowly. Used gun scrubber, penetrating oil and break free clp. Worked the action with each to try & clean lube it.

We talked on the phone tonight. He said it’s 100 yrs old and may not work correctly against what his description said. Question is, does anyone here shoot these guns?? That’s what I bought it for, to shoot occasionally. Am I wrong?? Thanks, Larry

 

[walter o]

Yes i shoot mine . If he described it wrong ship it back as you would with a new gun

 

[merl67]

I bought this one a few years ago and have shot it quite a bit. I would consider it in very good shape. I have never really thought about checking the timing by slow cocking it, as it functioned fine cocking in the normal manner. I just went and tried as you said you did, and it does sometimes fail to lock into the notches ever so slightly. I don't consider it an issue as I do not actually slow cock it when shooting it any way. The man you bought from may not be trying to hide anything he may have just cycled the action normally, which would not show any issues.

 

[Jebus35745]

Merl, always been taught to cycle slowly to check timing, cocking faster puts the cyl in motion and the cyl stop will lock in as the hammer cocks. I shoot a double action only league and the trigger is staged slowly before realigning the sights and pulling a hair more to fire the gun. We don’t shoot fast DA. You have a nice little .32, do you use the modern ammo in .32 S&W or load your own??

The guy that sold the gun to me said he didn’t think these were fired cause they are so old and the timing didn’t matter. Didn’t expect this to be a bullseye gun, just a fun shooter. Larry

 

[merl67]

I do check modern hand ejectors by slow cocking, and I will pass or negotiate accordingly. The antiques in my collection I suppose I cut them a little more slack I guess. Hopefully some of the real experts will chime in on whether this is a deal breaker or cause for concern. I do reload but also shoot modern ammo in mine too as it is loaded to the same pressure and velocity as the original loading.

 

[mmaher94087]

Since we haven't observed the perceived problem and can only speculate; were there charges in the cylinder? Often the added weight of the cartridges are enough to cause the cylinder to "follow-up" into battery. These revolvers, when new, would lock in battery at the instant he hammer was at full-cock. I doubt that that will happen 100 years later. With that in mind, I wouldn't be thinking "cycled slowly" when shooting one of these either. These are fun to shoot.

 

[Jebus35745]

Just went down and checked it again cocking the hammer a little faster. Had to go pretty fast to get the cyl to lock. No ammo in the gun, don’t have any yet as I just picked the gun up from my FFL this afternoon. Hope to get some more opinions on this. It is a cool little gun in pretty good shape. Tomorrow morning I’ll try to get something in the chambers to add weight. Larry

 

[glowe]

A double action revolver should ALWAYS lock into battery no matter what speed you turn the cylinder. If it falls short, the hand or ejector star teeth are worn. Normally, but you can usually add metal to the star and file until the indexing is good.

Checking the timing is the first thing I do as well and slowly cocking the revolver is the way to determine if it is working correctly. Don't shoot guns that do not lock up, since there is a real danger of flying slivers of lead. This is a problem that us usually easy to fix if you can find a gunsmith willing to work on antique revolvers.

 

[Jebus35745]

Well, guess I have a shooter. Will have to cock the hammer and rotate the cylinder 1/8” to lock it in and shoot it. The gun is really not bad finish wise for 100 yrs old. The nickel has some scratches and nicks but no rust.

Will try to peen the ratchet a little tomorrow. This is my first bad sale on Gun Broker and I even asked the question on timing before bidding. He would refund the auction price but not the shipping to me. I would have to eat 65.00 to send it back covering shipping both ways and the FFL fee I paid.He said it was OK when it left him and it had sold as is and no returns. Neither are on the auction listing. So for his inability to check timing or lying to sell it, it found a new home. Waiting to post feedback.

Gonna try to find a micro welder, I can see where the ratchets are worn. May take it apart to see if the hand is bent a little. Maybe the top of the hand can be welded to lengthen it. Are these fairly easy to disassemble?? Does the side plate come off by tapping the frame?

For those that reload for .32 S&W, can the .32 long dies be used?? Larry

 

[mmaher94087]

"1 /8" is nowhere close to 'timed'. I would flame the seller for gross inaccuracy and not refunding ALL moneys involved.

Without a visual inspection, the problem sounds like a chipped hand. This condition can be fixed with a weld bead, filing and easy heat treating.

The side plate is removable with a rap on the frame.

 

[merl67]

I agree with Mike, if you are having to rotate 1/8 of an inch that is a whole different matter. When I said mine would sometimes come up short, I mean like maybe .001-.002 of an inch. Maybe we should have asked by how much earlier in the thread.

 

[glowe]

Well, guess I have a shooter. Will have to cock the hammer and rotate the cylinder 1/8” to lock it in and shoot it . . .

For those that reload for .32 S&W, can the .32 long dies be used?? Larry

What happens the first time you forget - AND YOU WILL!? Or worse yet, let someone else shoot it?

The 32 Long die set will resize and de-cap the 32 S&W case, but you can not get a crimp on the bullet with the 32 Long dies. With no crimp, it allows the bullet to move forward in the chamber as the gun is shot, possibly binding the action. Besides, I doubt that the die can be set low enough to fully seat a bullet in a 32 S&W case. Spend the $35 for a set on ebay or wait for your next gun show and probably find a set for $20. Besides, by then maybe you will have your revolver fixed.

 

[Jebus35745]

Thanks for all the ideas and advice. Not sure if it’s allowed but here’s the GB auction number 725530316. It’s a nice looking gun for 110 years old, nice pics. Check it out. I’ll watch for dies for it. He even thought on one phone conversation that it would not be in time cause it’s so old. Somehow with age it just falls out of time sitting in a drawer. The LGS has some ammo coming for it before I knew what I bought. I have bullets for it for 32 long and lighter ones from 32 acp.


I paid 130.00 or 145 shipped plus the FFL fee of 25. If anyone wants it for 160 shipped, let me know. Gonna leave feedback next, Larry

 

[glowe]

As I understand it, you can post links to completed auction items, but not anything actively for sale. The revolver is quite nice and would benefit from a polishing with something like Mother's Mag Polish and it will really clean up nicely. The OAS stocks are obviously replacements, but are quite uncommon. Unfortunately Otis A Smith revolver stocks are not in great demand.

I would simply find a gunsmith to get the timing issue sorted out. It is a simple task and should not cost much. Besides, in good working order and if you can find some original stocks, it should be a $200 plus gun.

Interesting images below of O.A. Smith and the factory workers in the late 1800s.

 

[S&WsRsweet]

Y'all ever notice thoe guys getting pictures made back then very seldom smiled ,very serious folks I guess .

 

[raljr1]

Looking at the pictures of the extractor, it looks like it is well worn. Maybe if you can find a replacement extractor you can get the timing worked out. Otherwise it looks in pretty decent shape.

Robert

 

[Jebus35745]

Anyone know a source for a ratchet for one of these guns? Didn’t file a Fraud report yet and will wait a couple months till I do something to this just in case. May try to find a micro welder to weld up the ratchet and learn to file them. Larry