.32 Hand Ejector Help

[george_lehr]

I just got this Model of 1903, 2nd change from a friend. I think that S/N 837XX means it shipped between 1906 and 1909. I would like to get two side plate screws to replace the obvious non-stock ones shown in the third picture. I would assume that they're not oversized threads, but wouldn't know how to determine if they were. I called Jack First, but had no luck. Does anyone here know what sizes the two screws are, or know a good source for them? I'd appreciate any help.
I have not shot it yet, I'm waiting for ammo that I ordered. The gun has a lot of.......um....patina and some pitting in the bore, but I think it will be fun to shoot. It would look a lot better with two proper side plate screws.
Thanks in advance.

 

[H Richard]

I would recommend taking it to a good gunsmith. In all likely-hood whoever put the wrong screws in has inadvertently "recut" the threads in the receiver. S&W had a lot of proprietary thread sizes. A good gunsmith could determine if the receiver can b e "tapped" and a correct screw installed. Try Numrich or poppertsgunparts.com for the screws.

 

[opoefc]

H.Richard is right about the screws. It's 99% probable that the incorrect screw have retapped the original S&W threads and even if you could find the correct S&W screws, they won't fit right. Your gun was made in 1908, however I don't know when it was shipped. A factory letter will tell you. You have a shooter, not a collectable, so cold blue the wrong screws that are there, and proceed to have fun shooting it! Ed.

 

[Hondo44]

Hi George,

That's a great little gun and will be a fine shooter. You won't believe the accuracy even with the slightly pitted barrel. It has been refinished and unfortunately the hammer & trigger have been blued which is not factory standard. They were color case hardened. I would at least remove the blue from the sides to give it a more pleasing factory contrast.

I'm going to have to disagree on the screws. They appear to be brass.

And because prior to c.1942, although S&W screws had standard threads per inch, they were slightly smaller diameter than the US Standard Nat'l Fine. After that date, the order came down to standardize diameters with the US standard.

That being the case, it's more likely the original threads in the threaded holes cut deeper threads in the softer brass screws. Or even cut new threads in the screws if not the correct TPI. But I suspect they are the correct thread.

The top sideplate screw/hole is 5-44 NF and the other screws are 4-48 NF. But again, of pre war diameter. Sending you a PM with suppliers. I'm sure you'll fine the screws you need. Do you have the proper stocks for the grip frame?

Have fun and enjoy it.

 

[Göring's S&W]

Regarding the grips, the gun is a pre war I frame so that is what you have to look for. I'm not sure if improved-I frame grips are interchangeagble?

 

[Hondo44]

Post war I frame and Improved I frame stocks are interchangeable with pre war I frames back to 1896.

Model of 1953 New I frames and J frames up to the present, use the 1/8" longer J frame stocks. They will work as well on I frame size grip frames by trimming 1/8" from the bottom length.

The position of the locater pin in the grip frame has not changed since it's introduction on the 1896 1st I frame and is the same for J frames.

Any J frame stocks that enclose the butt, front or back of the grip frame will work as well w/o trimming.

 

[george_lehr]

Hondo44,
Thank you for all the information. The screws are brass and what you say makes perfect sense to me.
I do not have the proper grips for the gun. The grips are after market; sort of target grips. I'm going to a gun show Saturday and will be on the look out for grips.
I have a set of Altamont grips for a J frame that fit the .32. They don't look proper, but until I find appropriate stocks, they, or the after market grips that came with it, will do.
I will take the gun apart and buff the hammer and trigger to restore the case hardened finish. I'll be tempted to buff the rest of the gun, but it might look better as-is instead of polished and cold blued.

 

[H Richard]

If you have no grips at all, I do have a pair of Kelly's boot grips, originally for a K frame but shortened and fit to an Improved I Frame. They did work fine for several years until I found a set of correct grips. If you are interested in them please PM me.