32 HE 1st Model Parts Source

[Hondo44]

Reproduction of 1896 knob and the screw

I have a 32 Hand Ejector first model in nickel. It's missing the knob on the end of the extractor. Is there a source for replacement parts for this model? I've already tried Numrich. Thanks.

Hi,

While I'm working on the reproduction of the knob and the screw, I also assembled a list of possible suppliers of an extractor rod for your 1896.

If you haven't found one yet, you may want to try these;

George Dye (at David Carroll's) for old Smith parts, sight blades, etc.

GUN GARAGE on Ebay (for screws)
http://stores.ebay.com/Gun-Garage

"elysianfield!" on Ebay, lanyard swivel $20 shipped and nicely blued. Specify for S&W

"Aonepawninc" http://stores.ebay.com/aonepawninc
has a bunch of old S&W parts for sale. I just ordered a complete hammer for my pre model 30 from them. They are very customer oriented and have very reasonable prices. 1/10/16

Dave Bennett: Parts and guns from 1900 up to 1970's.
e-Mail: [email protected]
Web Site: www.22ammobox.com

David Clements - Clements Custom Guns
PH: 276-238-8761
2766 Mt. Zion Rd.
Woodlawn, VA 24381
[email protected]
Clements Custom Guns

Jack First: Large selection of Pre- and Post-WWII parts. Sells working
parts to FFL dealers only.
Phone: 605-343-9544
Reproduced firing pins for 22/32 Kit Gun and HFT

Gun Parts Corp: Successor to Numrich Arms; many guns parts.
226 Williams Lane, West Hurley, NY 12491
Phone: 845-679-2417
e-Mail: [email protected]
Web Site: Gun Parts & Firearm Accessories | Numrich Gun Parts

Jim Horvath: Many parts for all S&W's (large and small) from 1860 up;
can reproduce parts.
e-Mail: [email protected]

Jeff Lee: Lee's Gun Parts (an extensive supply of gun parts, including S&W)Mike who works for Lee has 45 M25 barrels.
(Open to the public on Tuesdays, Wednesdays and Thursdays).
3401 W. Pioneer, Suite 2, Irving, TX 75061
Phone: 972-790-0773
www.leesgunparts.com/‎

Jan Matlega: Parts for Pre-WWII S&W hand-ejectors.
Mail Address: 528 Eddy Glover
New Britain, CT 06053
Phone: 860-229-6872

Poppert's Gun Parts: http://www.poppertsgunparts.com/
P.O. Box 413
Glenside, PA 19038
Tel: 215-887-2391 Fax: 215-887-5816
Email: [email protected]

Charlie Pate: Provides screws (original & reproduction) for S&W Tip-ups and Top-breaks; author of books and articles on S&W guns.
Phone: 703-533-8057
e-Mail: [email protected]

Phil Saccacio: Phone: 540-456-6405
e-Mail: [email protected]

Dave Szilagy: Manufactures parts for older S&W's.
Mail Address: 3107 Electric, Lincoln Park, MI 48146
e-Mail: [email protected]

Mike Veilleux: Guns and Gun Parts
All Parts inc. for Pre- and Post-WWII S&W's.
Phone: 413-732-9938
e-Mail: [email protected]
Web Site: www.gunsnparts.com


Liberty Tree Collectors Phone:207-285-3111
139 Main Street, Corinth, ME 04427
Email:[email protected]
Liberty tree collectors has original, CCH lanyard rings (but without the retaining pin) for $25.

S&W Parts; antique and new
[email protected]
Ph: 352 394-7412

Good hunting,
Jim

 

[Barbarian-CBX]

Great job keeping up the interest guys! I'm still looking for a knob. Plus, I think I need a rod too. If you look closely, my rod doesn't have threads. It has a small slot in one side. If it did have threads, a piece of the rod must have broken off and be in the missing knob.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

 

[glowe]

. . . I think I need a rod too . . .

Not sure what parts are altered in your picture. The ejector rod is the outer housing and should measure about .87" from the frame. The center pin is threaded to accept the knob and also is drilled out to accept the cone shape of the end screw.

There is rearward tension on the center pin to allow it to snap into the recess on the recoil shield, plus there is a larger spring to enable the star extractor to return to the rear of the cylinder after pushing on the rod. The center pin should not be showing the pin end beyond the rod, but rather only the small threaded end should be showing. Make sure you have both the springs you need. A couple pictures might help you out.

The ejector rod/center pin knob assembly is assembled with very small diameter fine threads and all parts fit together perfectly. I continue to be amazed at the skill and craftsmanship of gunmakers in the 1890s. This design was a belt & suspenders approach to keeping everything in place. The knob screwed onto the center pin, and the end screw placed pressure on those threads to keep it from loosening. Too bad it did not work as designed for far too many 1896 revolvers.

 

[Barbarian-CBX]

Thanks for the explanation and images. The center pin appears to have the threaded end broken off where the knob attaches. Hence, I'll require both the pin and knob. Right?

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

 

[Barbarian-CBX]

Thanks for the explanation and images. The center pin appears to have the threaded end broken off where the knob attaches. Hence, I'll require both the pin and knob. Right?

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Oh. I'll need the end screw also. I wonder if I have the wrong pin anyway since it sticks our about 3/16" from end of extractor.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

 

[battle]

Not sure what parts are altered in your picture. The ejector rod is the outer housing and should measure about .87" from the frame. The center pin is threaded to accept the knob and also is drilled out to accept the cone shape of the end screw.

There is rearward tension on the center pin to allow it to snap into the recess on the recoil shield, plus there is a larger spring to enable the star extractor to return to the rear of the cylinder after pushing on the rod. The center pin should not be showing the pin end beyond the rod, but rather only the small threaded end should be showing. Make sure you have both the springs you need. A couple pictures might help you out.

The ejector rod/center pin knob assembly is assembled with very small diameter fine threads and all parts fit together perfectly. I continue to be amazed at the skill and craftsmanship of gunmakers in the 1890s. This design was a belt & suspenders approach to keeping everything in place. The knob screwed onto the center pin, and the end screw placed pressure on those threads to keep it from loosening. Too bad it did not work as designed for far too many 1896 revolvers.

Is this an original finish 1896? I ask because I'm curious if the nickel guns hammer and trigger are originally case hardened or nickel? Nice example BTW.

I'm also in need of a hammer if anyone has a spare. The gun I have has had the hammer bobbed.

 

[glowe]

I am near certain that the gun is original nickel. I have three nickel 32 HE, 1st revolvers, in all three available barrel lengths, and they all have case colored hammer and trigger.

It seems that just about every vintage model S&W is found in all nickel and many could well be special orders from the factory, some with annotations in the factory records have been confirmed by letters. It is speculated that one reason why the factory did not nickel these parts was because the nickel plate added enough thickness to these parts to cause binding.

 

[Hondo44]

Gary,

Thx for the excellent photos. These will help greatly in getting the knob and screw reproduced!

I also notice the threads on the center pin have a split on the end so the cone tip of the lock screw can expand to tighten inside the knob.

 

[battle]

I am near certain that the gun is original nickel. I have three nickel 32 HE, 1st revolvers, in all three available barrel lengths, and they all have case colored hammer and trigger.

It seems that just about every vintage model S&W is found in all nickel and many could well be special orders from the factory, some with annotations in the factory records have been confirmed by letters. It is speculated that one reason why the factory did not nickel these parts was because the nickel plate added enough thickness to these parts to cause binding.

Are they 4,6,8" ?

 

[glowe]

Actually, the standard barrel lengths for this model have rather odd dimensions: 3 1/4", 4 1/4", and 6". Unlike many other early S&W models that show up with very long barrels, I have never seen anything longer than 6" barrel on this model.

 

[Hondo44]

UPDATE: We're making progress on reproducing the 1896 ejector knob and screw.

I have delivered dimensions to Sam who has completed the screw. He'll be working on the knob soon.

 

[Barbarian-CBX]

It appears the front end of my center pin is broken off. Can someone point me to a replacement source for 32 HE 1st model center pin? Thanks.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

 

[Hondo44]

Post # 21 above.

 

[wundudnee]

I've been following this thread with much interest. I have my grandfathers first model and it's missing the knob and the threads on the rod are damaged. An old gunsmith put an off breed knob on it and it's not really secure.

It was the first revolver I ever shot.

 

[Hondo44]

UPDATE:

The first knob is now complete in addition to the screw. The screw and knob is being sent to an owner of an 1896 for testing.

Because there are so many nickel plated 1896 models, these parts will be offered in nickel plate as well as blued.

 

[Hondo44]

I've been following this thread with much interest. I have my grandfathers first model and it's missing the knob and the threads on the rod are damaged. An old gunsmith put an off breed knob on it and it's not really secure.

It was the first revolver I ever shot.

We'll have the correct knob and screw available for your gun soon. Notice in the middle photo in post #23, the threaded end of the extractor rod has a small split in the threads.

The split in the end of the threads on the center pin is so the cone tip of the lock screw can expand the threads to tighten inside the knob. Hopefully this will compensate for worn threads on your extractor rod.

 

[handejector]

Well we seem to be progressing. I will have an example soon to get measurements from along with photos to send to the supplier for production.

Jim,
I strongly recommend sending him a knob and screw.
I would talk to him first and make sure he'll send it back.
Drawings are great IF they are a true schematic drawn to scale with all dimensions noted accurately. Otherwise, the part in hand is the best way to go.
Just trying to save you some disappointment here....

Kudos for doing this.

 

[handejector]

I just read the whole thread.
I'm way behind.
Never mind.....

 

[glowe]

We had a couple of threads running together for some time on this subject, but one got left behind. Since they overlap in information and intent, I thought I would add the link for additional information on Jim's project.

S&W first model 1896

 

[Muley Gil]

We'll have the correct knob and screw available for your gun soon. Notice in the middle photo in post #23, the threaded end of the extractor rod has a small split in the threads.

The split in the end of the threads on the center pin is so the cone tip of the lock screw can expand the threads to tighten inside the knob. Hopefully this will compensate for worn threads on your extractor rod.

Any chance of getting some knobs made up for the 1899 revolvers? My 1899 .32-20 needs one.