329PD Frame Wear

blaiwayw

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New 329PD unfired until today. I shot 18 rounds of 44 Special, and 6 rounds of 44 magnum. The magnum rounds are nothing excessive, and I fire them in my 29 without issues. No pressure signs. When cleaning the 329 I noticed a groove starting where the cylinder meets the frame. This is my only scandium framed revolver so I can't make comparisons. I have sent these same pictures to S&W customer service. Maybe someone here is familiar with the 329, and can tell if this wear looks normal.
 

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Happens with the airlites. Had a 642 and 317 all with the same thing. Not saying this is acceptable but you're not alone.
 
Thanks for the reply. I will post whatever answer I receive from S&W. If it doesn't get any worse, I can live with it. Really like this revolver.
 
To S&W, it's "normal" wear and tear. I sent S&W some images of a similar issue on an airweight a couple of years ago. They said the damage was from the yoke impacting the frame during recoil.....and that this peening was in their words, "considered normal".
 
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I think it's mainly caused by the spring loaded plunger design of the yoke screw. The plunger doesn't hold the yoke firmly in place to the rear like the old "button" style of the yoke with the corresponding fitted yoke screw did.

If you open the cylinder on guns with the current design yoke screw, you can usually push the yoke/cylinder (or the yoke itself) assembly forward a bit using hand/thumb pressure. I believe this is what's happening during recoil, and as a result, the yoke body is striking the frame. This is particularly evident in the very light weight (alloy) magnum frames, and is aggravated when there is gauge (space) between the frame and the yoke itself when the yoke (and cyl assy) is closed.
 
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I've only had one Airlite that didn't do that.

They all seemed to get to a certain point that was cosmetic only then stop. My 329PD developed the mark much faster than the others did. Probably as quick as OP's but it's first range session was several hundred rounds so didn't really notice when it actually started.

Except for the one that didn't do it. Figured it was some sort of misfit and sent it down the road.
 
I love it (NOT) when Company's use the expression, "it's normal" when they either can't or won't fix a known problem! :mad: Unacceptable to me...... Sorry you have to deal with this!
 
blaiwayw

I have a 325 Night Guard with the Scandium frame and a SS cylinder. after a couple of hundred rounds I to have some Peening of the frame. I am embarrassed to admit that I had not noticed until reading this thread. Will be anxious to see what S&W has to say.
 

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FromS&W

In three days I received a reply from S&W. As expected they call it normal wear. I scrapped the slight ridge off (surprisingly soft ) with my pocket knife, and covered the bright spot with a sharpie. I will just monitor the peening as time, and shooting go on. Except for this "normal" wear, I like everything else about this revolver. Now I want one in 357M. It's fun to shoot with 44Specials. I've ordered the reduced recoil Buffalo Bore ammo, for more serious use. Jerry Miculek has ported his 329PD, and says porting helps with muzzle flip. I might go that route, just for quicker follow up shots. Thanks for the comments. Very much appreciated.
 

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Just wondering, If a new but old style yoke screw (fitted) was installed, requiring the yoke to also be modified if the result would solve the problem? We never noticed it with older alloy frames that had the fitted screw.
 
The old yoke screw won't fit the front sideplate cavity any more. I've heard of some folks "modifying" the new spring loaded screw with an inflexable pilot, which might help. As you suggest, maybe an insert in the new screw to fit an old style button or modifying the existing yoke button configuration might work?
 
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