.357 Magnum - Ruger Or S&W?

conchmariner

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My next purchase will most likely be a .357 Magnum with 4 inch barrel. The 627 with 8 round capacity is nice, but I'm wondering whether I should go with a GP100 instead. Rugers are less expensive, but seem to built really well. Any thoughts?
 
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My next purchase will most likely be a .357 Magnum with 4 inch barrel. The 627 with 8 round capacity is nice, but I'm wondering whether I should go with a GP100 instead. Rugers are less expensive, but seem to built really well. Any thoughts?
 
Once upon a time in the 1970s, I lusted for a six inch M19 but could not find one. Instead of doing the sensible thing and keep looking, I settled for and bought a new Ruger stainless Security Six. I kept and shot that thing for a few years, and while it performed satisfactorily, I was never really happy with it. The visible casting marks on the frame, the clunky action, and the heft of the SS just never felt right. I finally located the M19 I wanted, traded off the SS, and never looked back.
 
I don't think you'll find any gp100 stainless 4" at this time unless you want to pay a pretty penny. In that case, you may as well get the 686.
 
I grabbed a GP 100 last week at Riverview Sales.
Their Internet price was $469, they raised it
$100 or more over the weekend. I had logged in to buy the Taurus M66 at $397 but saw the price on the GP and decided to go for it. Also saw GP new go for about $480 on Gunbroker this weekend.
So they are around and at ok prices, about $200 under the S&W. If I did not go for the Ruger, I would probably get the Taurus 66. You get a good looking gun and extra shot. I am not
anti S&W, My CCW is a 642, and it is GREAT!.
 
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I faced that same quandry a year or so ago and bought the Smith (686+). The Ruger is a pretty good gun. The trigger on the Smith is better. Both will respond to a trigger job, and when done the Smith will still be better. I have since purchased a used GP100 3" and done trigger jobs on both, so I am not just speculating. The one thing the Ruger has going for it is the interchangeable front sight. This is a sore point on my 686, so the Ruger definately gets the nod in this regard. The bore axis on the Ruger is higher, and that is a negative to me. The 686 cost about $150 more than the Ruger, but worth it to me. The 7 shot cylinder is not an option with the Ruger, and it is a pretty desireable option in my opinion.
 
This is always a sore spot for me. I have a 4" GP100, a 686SSR and a 627PC. All are very good guns, but my personal preference is for the 627PC. Part of it is the 5" barrel, part is the N frame grip. Part is the extra weight. (39.2 oz, 40.6 oz and 46.2 oz. respectively). While all have very good double action triggers, the 627PC has one of the best I have ever tried. Love to shoot it double action. I also have a 617-5 with a 5" barrel that weighs 46.8 oz and makes a great understudy gun for the 627 when I feel like being cheap, which is much of the time.
 
You didn't think you would get a group of S&W owners to tell you to buy a Ruger did you. The 686 and 627 are two of the best 357s made. GO S&W
 
Iguess that asking that question on this forum is rhetorical? I have a Security Six that I bought back in 1977 and it has been an excellent revolver. I still have it. The Ruger's modular system is superior in terms of durability and ease of maintenance. The solid frtame of the Ruger is stronger. I do not like the GP100 nearly as well as the Security Six. That said, the Ruger doesn't come with the dumb lock built into the works!
 
Used Smith Vs. New Ruger...I'd go with the Smith.

New Smith Vs. New Ruger...I'd go with the Ruger.

That stupid lock hole is a deal breaker for me.
 
I just might be buying a 4" GP100 very soon. I have a S&W 66, and I want something a bit stouter to handle the occasional full house .357. Nothing wrong with a Ruger. I had a .38 SP101 once.
 
As for buying new I would hold off on the ILS new 686 and Gp100. And buy a pre-lock 686 as a first pick,but if I could not get a pre-lock I would get the GP-100 till I found the holy grail no-lock 686-no dash to dash 4. My self I like the dash 3 it has no mim parts ,but all forged indards. I think the dash 4 does to. The new 686 ils are $600 plus and near $700ish. The Gp-100,s near $500. If you look you can get a good used 686 for the same price range. And have a real fine smooth wheelgun.
 
I went through this decision process a while back and bought the 686+. Fit and finish is superior to the Ruger so if you like that, buy the S&W. If it doesn't really matter to you, the Ruger would work fine. Either are great guns.
 
Yes the new SW,s are way better than the Rugers. The ILS is fine ,just don,t use it. Going on six decades of old age I just have a thing for the old ways. And yes my time piece still ticks and is a American 1950,s Hamilton 22 wind up made in Pa. SW are all a good thing.
 
I would seriously try to hold off on a new S&W, in an attempt to locate a nice, used M686 (no dash to -4). They seem to be better than both the new S&W's and Rugers. If you really want a new gun, I think both the S&W and Ruger GP are fine choices. The Ruger seems to be a little overbuilt, to the point where it is kinda club-like. Of course just finding one could be half the battle. Good luck.
 
Lets see.....I own double the amount of Smiths as opposed to Rugers but.......I choose to carry a Ruger instead.

My advice to you is this:
Both gun makers are top notch. Find one you like shooting over the others and go for that one.
 
I am in a similar situation except I already bought my first revolver (a Smith model 65-5 3" barrel SS) Now that I have the revolver bug, I want to go back to the pawn shop that has the nice bunch of 357 mag Rugers I passed up on. I want both just like the previous post GF has. Best of both worlds I think.

I say get the Smith 1st(obviously) then build from there. Oh and try not to ever sell your guns. I regret alot of my sold guns now that the gun craze has ramped up lately.
 
I have 2 686,s, 1 model 19 and a gp-100. The smiths are definetly smoother, the model 19 more so as it is 25 years old and its safe to say its broken in, lol. The ruger is more durable, to me at least as it will take the heavier loads with less problems.
You really cant go wrong with either gun, but if i had to make the choice : 686 4 inch all the way.
 
One thing that I have discovered.
The more you shoot a S&W revolver, the smoother they get.
The more you shoot a Ruger DA, the more it's been shot.
I just love the DA feel of a Smith.
 
eggfarmer

eggfarmer, Did you mean Riverview in East Windsor CT?

Not to start a side topic, but how do you like them? I think their prices are very fair and have bought a few pieces from them this year.
 
Thanks for the replies guys. I guess I can't go wrong either way. The reason I got interested in the Ruger was that a lot of people here have posted that Ruger .44 Magnums are more durable when handling full house loads than S&W (my 629 extractor rod loosened up after less than 50 rounds), and I was wondering whether the same thing applied to .357 Magnums.
 
The Security Six in its many variations is the best DA revolver Ruger ever built. My problem with the GP was only that with a high volume count of cast bullets that front lock tended to cause problems getting full of gunk and making latching/unlatching a problem and my cast to jacketed ratio is better than 99 to 1. So far the S&W's I've used have not had this problem(that's one reason I also liked the Security series!) I'm no fan of the S&W IL for cosmetic reasons but can honestly say that in thousands of rounds thru L and N frames I've never had it give me any problem. In J frames....who knows. Buy S&W.
By the way....the Security action can be easily worked to rival the best S&W action.
 
Yes in CT. They were responsive, shipped next day (unlike Bud's that shipped in ten days for an in stock item with credit card). However, they over charged my card by $130, and they say I will get a credit which has not posted yet.
They answer the phone and prices are good.
 
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