.357 Magnum - Ruger Or S&W?

conchmariner

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My next purchase will most likely be a .357 Magnum with 4 inch barrel. The 627 with 8 round capacity is nice, but I'm wondering whether I should go with a GP100 instead. Rugers are less expensive, but seem to built really well. Any thoughts?
 
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My next purchase will most likely be a .357 Magnum with 4 inch barrel. The 627 with 8 round capacity is nice, but I'm wondering whether I should go with a GP100 instead. Rugers are less expensive, but seem to built really well. Any thoughts?
 
Once upon a time in the 1970s, I lusted for a six inch M19 but could not find one. Instead of doing the sensible thing and keep looking, I settled for and bought a new Ruger stainless Security Six. I kept and shot that thing for a few years, and while it performed satisfactorily, I was never really happy with it. The visible casting marks on the frame, the clunky action, and the heft of the SS just never felt right. I finally located the M19 I wanted, traded off the SS, and never looked back.
 
I don't think you'll find any gp100 stainless 4" at this time unless you want to pay a pretty penny. In that case, you may as well get the 686.
 
I grabbed a GP 100 last week at Riverview Sales.
Their Internet price was $469, they raised it
$100 or more over the weekend. I had logged in to buy the Taurus M66 at $397 but saw the price on the GP and decided to go for it. Also saw GP new go for about $480 on Gunbroker this weekend.
So they are around and at ok prices, about $200 under the S&W. If I did not go for the Ruger, I would probably get the Taurus 66. You get a good looking gun and extra shot. I am not
anti S&W, My CCW is a 642, and it is GREAT!.
 
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I faced that same quandry a year or so ago and bought the Smith (686+). The Ruger is a pretty good gun. The trigger on the Smith is better. Both will respond to a trigger job, and when done the Smith will still be better. I have since purchased a used GP100 3" and done trigger jobs on both, so I am not just speculating. The one thing the Ruger has going for it is the interchangeable front sight. This is a sore point on my 686, so the Ruger definately gets the nod in this regard. The bore axis on the Ruger is higher, and that is a negative to me. The 686 cost about $150 more than the Ruger, but worth it to me. The 7 shot cylinder is not an option with the Ruger, and it is a pretty desireable option in my opinion.
 
This is always a sore spot for me. I have a 4" GP100, a 686SSR and a 627PC. All are very good guns, but my personal preference is for the 627PC. Part of it is the 5" barrel, part is the N frame grip. Part is the extra weight. (39.2 oz, 40.6 oz and 46.2 oz. respectively). While all have very good double action triggers, the 627PC has one of the best I have ever tried. Love to shoot it double action. I also have a 617-5 with a 5" barrel that weighs 46.8 oz and makes a great understudy gun for the 627 when I feel like being cheap, which is much of the time.
 
You didn't think you would get a group of S&W owners to tell you to buy a Ruger did you. The 686 and 627 are two of the best 357s made. GO S&W
 
Iguess that asking that question on this forum is rhetorical? I have a Security Six that I bought back in 1977 and it has been an excellent revolver. I still have it. The Ruger's modular system is superior in terms of durability and ease of maintenance. The solid frtame of the Ruger is stronger. I do not like the GP100 nearly as well as the Security Six. That said, the Ruger doesn't come with the dumb lock built into the works!
 
Used Smith Vs. New Ruger...I'd go with the Smith.

New Smith Vs. New Ruger...I'd go with the Ruger.

That stupid lock hole is a deal breaker for me.
 
I just might be buying a 4" GP100 very soon. I have a S&W 66, and I want something a bit stouter to handle the occasional full house .357. Nothing wrong with a Ruger. I had a .38 SP101 once.
 
As for buying new I would hold off on the ILS new 686 and Gp100. And buy a pre-lock 686 as a first pick,but if I could not get a pre-lock I would get the GP-100 till I found the holy grail no-lock 686-no dash to dash 4. My self I like the dash 3 it has no mim parts ,but all forged indards. I think the dash 4 does to. The new 686 ils are $600 plus and near $700ish. The Gp-100,s near $500. If you look you can get a good used 686 for the same price range. And have a real fine smooth wheelgun.
 
I went through this decision process a while back and bought the 686+. Fit and finish is superior to the Ruger so if you like that, buy the S&W. If it doesn't really matter to you, the Ruger would work fine. Either are great guns.
 
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