.37/357 shotshell question

[growr]

My brother recently acquired all of the components to reload some .38/357 shotshells but is having a problem with the capsule breaking even with a very light to no crimp.

I have loaded hundreds of thousands of ammunition with actual projectiles, but have NO experience with shotshells.

I am wondering if perhaps a larger flare in the belling stage might help.
What say all you experienced reloaders of shotshells?

Randy

 

[Dragon88]

Expand the case more, seat the capsule slowly, and do not crimp. Merely remove the bell from the case mouth to put it flush against the capsule.

 

[H Richard]

I use a very slight roll crimp. I get there by turning the die in about a 1/4 turn at a time until I am satisfied it is snug enough to hold the capsule, but not enough to crack the capsule.

 

[CMD-KY]

I have made 150 shot shell .38 cal. For these I use a single stage press , very slowly with each die. The bell is somewhat larger than otherwise. I adjust the roll crimp (RCBS seat/crimp) in very small increments, less than a 1/8 turn per pull. When you hit it right and begin to use these things, you will find it is worth the time. I have used them several times with gratifying success.

 

[cjw3]

I expand the case as usual, but seat with a wooden ruler or other flat object held against the base of the taper crimp die. I then immediately run the cartridge into the die for the crimp. A light roll crimp is also acceptable.

Brass varies between manufacturers so you will have to go with trial and error to find one that will allow you to seat to the recommended OAL. Military brass and some commercial brass such as the old S&W-Fiocchi have more internal taper and are less than ideal for use with these.

 

[ArchAngelCD]

I bought a 38 Special taper crimp die for making shotshells with Speer caplets. That die removes the bell easily without breaking the caplets.

 

[bogman]

I have always used my standard roll crimp die. I just crimp lightly. roll crimping seems to grip the capsule a little better & keeps it from moving forward under recoil from other rounds that are fired first.

 

[charliek]

Do not resize the cases, lightly bell, and then seat the capsule. I use a Lee factory crimp die to hold in place. Works for me.

 

[Larry from Bend]

You MUST crimp them or you'll find your cylinder tied up from forward capsule movement. If you can rotate/budge them (after loading) by hand --- you need more crimp. With plain old RCBS seating/crimp die I've never broken one, but you have to increase the crimp slowly (like 1/16 or 1/8 turn at a time). I've made/shot a couple hundred of these over the years. I remember when they were yellow! I always carry a few.

 

[McGraw]

Hi
I prefer to load in .38 Spl match cases, they have thin wall necks in order to hold the original 148 WC bullets.
Also a very light crimp, roll or taper.
McGraw

 

[ArchAngelCD]

I also made a lot of .38 shotshells using a roll crimp die but i also broke enough too. that's why I went to a taper crimp for the shotshells and haven't broken one since. Sure it can be done but I found it easier with the taper crimp... I totally agree the shotshells must be crimped one way or another but it's a must.

 

[Nick B]

I've loaded lots of 38 shotshells to shoot rats . A neat trick to do is to take the loaded rounds and run the nose of the shot capsule over very fine sand paper to thin the plastic . I've found that by doing this the capsule opens up cleaner upon firing which gave tighter patterns .