38/44 problem

JMtoolman

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I found a nice, well not quite nice, 38/44 that I could repair a bit , for a reasonable price. It had a bit of ham handed damage to it but otherwise looked like it had not been used too much. Some one had taken a file to the backstrap and removed someone's name or such. It had been drawfiled and cold blued, leaving some flats and damage to the horn where the curve changes at the top of the grip. Then some one dropped it on concrete at the rear sight, leaving some damaged area. I was a metalsmith by trade for some years, so I knew I could help the old girl out and make her feel like new again! I started on the backstrap, and in a couple hours had remove all of the damage, and had it refinished to a 800 grit surface, including the draw filing damage to the horn area. Then on to the concrete damage! I used my engraving tool to hammer the displaced metal back to it's origional area. A small piece of concrete actually came out of one of the areas! An hours work and I had all of the displace metel moved back to where it should be, except for one small pit of about .005. Decided that was as far as I was going to go. A bit of polishing with 800 grit, and the metal was ready for a bit of bluing. I fired up the rust blue pot and reblued the new polished areas. Didn't put any bluing on the rest of the pistol, only the damaged areas! Man it came out great, you cannot tell where the origional blue and the new rust blue come together! To say I was estatic is sort of understating it! On to shooting the old girl. I have one cylinder that hangs up on rotation! It is the same one every time. So checked that the locking bolt was clearing the cuts on the cylinder before rotation, check! Not dragging on the back of the barrel, check! Rachet looks great, not worn or dinged, check! Everything has the correct clearances! I shot about 150 rounds through it this morning and the same spot on the rotation of the cylinder drags! I pulled the cylinder out and clamped the crane in the vice (has wood in the jaws) and I could see a few thousands of wobble in the extracter rod. This seems like it might be where it is binding during rotation. I just tried to strighten it out a bit, but man are they tough to bend a little bit. Should I just see if I can replace the rod? It's a 1950 or 51 so it has the right hand thread, and it is a N frame. Can some one point me in the right direction to find one, it has knurling on the end of the rod and is the same diameter as the rod. Or does anyone have an idea what might be causing the binding. All the parts look to be in great shape, including the hand. Best regards, the toolman.
 
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You've just about covered all the bases.

Can you feel the hard spot by just rolling the cyl when it's open, or is it just when trying to cock the revolver?

Install the cyl w/o the extractor rod and ctr pin to confirm if the drag on one chamber is gone or is still there. If still there, roll the cyl with cyl opened and look for run out of the cyl on the yoke axis shaft, the shaft could be bent.

This could make the ext rod look bent when it isn't.

Extractor rods can be checked for a bend out of the gun by rolling it on a flat surface, flat piece of glass, etc.
 
Well I solved my problem this morning. I removed the ejector rod and chucked it up in my lathe. A dial indicator said it has about .010 runout. Some applied pressure and I got it down to .003, just couldn't get it to be closer to 0. Man they are hard to bend, I am sure I was bending it over an .125 and it would spring right back with no bending. I was finely able to get it to .003 and decided to stop! Installed it in the 38/44 and the binding was gone. Sometimes it is good to stop when you are ahead!
Best regards, the toolman.
 

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