38 Revolver

[tocohillsguy]

Following is a revolver that has been in our family for some time. Serial Number 320XXX. I believe it's a S&W 38, 3rd generation. I would appreciate any information that can be provided regarding it's value and care. I was thinking about giving it a Prolix bath, but thought it might be best to check with others first. The cylinder spins freely without pulling the trigger. The trigger sometimes sticks, but the cylinder turns with the trigger. Ultimately, I'm just not sure if it is working properly. Does Smith and Wesson continue to service these? Sorry for the poor images but all I have is my camara phone.

 

[tocohillsguy]

Following is a revolver that has been in our family for some time. Serial Number 320XXX. I believe it's a S&W 38, 3rd generation. I would appreciate any information that can be provided regarding it's value and care. I was thinking about giving it a Prolix bath, but thought it might be best to check with others first. The cylinder spins freely without pulling the trigger. The trigger sometimes sticks, but the cylinder turns with the trigger. Ultimately, I'm just not sure if it is working properly. Does Smith and Wesson continue to service these? Sorry for the poor images but all I have is my camara phone.

 

[tocohillsguy]

Another image

 

[tocohillsguy]

Final image

 

[opoefc]

It does appear to be a .38 DA top break model, 3rd edit., circa 1895. It has been heavily buffed at some time in the past and refinished. Other than sentimental value as a family heirloom, it has no collector value, and is not in shooting condition due to the defects you cite. It would probably benefit from a dissambly and thorough cleaning, as years of old oil, dirt and residure from firing is probably the reason for most of the sticky action. Value as a gun, maybe $100 - value as a family relic - priceless!

 

[mikepriwer]

Following up on the cleaning suggestion, you might take the grips off,and
then soak the whole gun in any good solvent, for several days. See if
that clears up the problems. If you know how to take it apart and clean it,
that is even better.

If you do soak it in a solvent,and that fixes the problems, then soak it
in very light, high-quality, oil, and then let it drip-dry ! This will give
it some protection - its not the best way to oil a gun, but its better than
nothing.

Later, Mike Priwer

 

[opoefc]

I forgot to add that the factory will not work on these older guns, as there are no more parts available at the factory, plus gun smithing services are not provided there for these antiques due to potential liability problems with people firing modern ammo. in older black powder guns, resulting in accidents and injuries to the shooter and persons nearby.

 

[tocohillsguy]

Originally posted by opoefc:
I forgot to add that the factory will not work on these older guns, as there are no more parts available at the factory, plus gun smithing services are not provided there for these antiques due to potential liability problems with people firing modern ammo. in older black powder guns, resulting in accidents and injuries to the shooter and persons nearby.

If the factory won't fix them, is there someone who does?

 

[Pontiaker]

Dont soak it in any solvent! Not unless you want the nickle to peel off it. Squirt WD40 or some other penetrating oil into it after you pull the grips off. Work it several times and see if it free's up then wipe the extra off of the gun. I would bet there is something broken inside causing the free spin cylinder issue.Any gunsmith could probably take it apart and find out whats wrong. I will do it for free if you want to send it to me, I work on alot of this old stuff as a hobby, I make custom knives for a living.
Matt

 

[tocohillsguy]

Originally posted by Pontiaker:
Dont soak it in any solvent! Not unless you want the nickle to peel off it. Squirt WD40 or some other penetrating oil into it after you pull the grips off. Work it several times and see if it free's up. I would bet there is something broken inside causing the free spin cylinder issue.Any gunsmith could probably take it apart and find out whats wrong. I will do it for free if you want to send it to me, I work on alot of this old stuff as a hobby, I make custom knives for a living.
Matt

I already soaked it in Prolix for about 20 minutes. I just started using Prolix on my other pistols and I've been pleased with the results. It cleaned it up without any damage, but unfortunately it didn't solve the problem. Pontiaker, I may take you up on your offer, but first I want to see if I can find someone local. Not sure I want to deal the shipping.

 

[model10]

i would clean it as best i could an put in a show case an it does has a history as to what we dont know , good or bad !! nice looking firearm, its a shame they can't talk . enjoy it

 

[opoefc]

Working on these guns is not rocket science. They are fairly simple mechanisms, and easy to fix if you have a parts source for any broken parts. Operative word is "parts source" You say the cylinder spins freely. In which direction? It's supposed to spin freely counter clockwise, but not clockwise. If it spins clockwise, you have a broken, or well worn, cylinder stop, or broken cylinder stop spring. Open the latch, tilt the barrel down like your bottom photo, and look at the cylinder stop, which is right above the trigger in the bottom of the frame. If it not broken, you will see a small metal tit sticking up just a millemeter , or so, above the level of the frame.When the barrel is closed, that tit will align with the cylinder stop notches and stop the cylinder in alignment with the barrel for each chamber, when the gun is fired. If it is not sticking up, then it is broken, or the spring that pushes it up is broken, or there's a whole bunch of old crud clogging up the working of the parts. If the cylinder rotates when the trigger is pulled, that's good, but what does it do when you pull the hammer back to full cock? The cylinder should be locked on place then and can't be turned. If you can spin it with the hammer cocked, you have the broken parts senario described above. The rule in all gun problems is to first identify the problem, then you can seek the solution. Unfortunately S&W constantly changed the size, shape and function of many parts in the 5 varaitions of the .38DA over the life span of it's production. Parts from junker guns, or ordered from Numbrich, etc, quite often are the wrong part from the gun you are trying to fix, althought they are the same model. Replacing small springs is not a problen as they are easy to make or can be filed to fit from a box of generic springs ordered from Brownell's or other dealer in gunsmith parts. A broken cylinder stop can be a real headache in trying to find a replacement. Nobody makes new ones and there are several different styles in the .38DA revolvers that won't interchange. Murphey's Law works quite well when it comes to GunSmithing 101, but perserverance is your best tool. Good luck!